US Banknotes

The red ink indicates it's a U.S. Note, a type of currency no longer produced. However, bills from the 1950s remain common in collections and are generally worth only face value or slightly more if they're in worn condition.

If your bill is in excellent condition it may be worth a small premium, depending on whether there is a letter next to the date. If there's no letter, it could be worth up to $12 if it's in nearly-new shape. If there's an A, B, or C next to the date it would be worth up to about $8.

Assuming it's genuine, the value of a five dollar Confederate bill will fluctuate. Currently, it is available via resale markets with a price range of 20 to 30 dollars per bill.

However huge numbers of "Confederate" bills are actually replicas that were sold by gift shops at Civil War sites, printed for use in advertising campaigns, etc. You'll need to have your bill authenticated in person by an expert dealer or appraiser.

Try asking a complete question. Include the following information: date, country of origin, and denomination. For example when asking about the value of US paper money ask a question like this: What is the value of a <date> US <denomination>.

See the BEP page at Related Links, below

The value depends on the condition. If the note shows considerable wear or have a small tear or two on the edge, it could be worth $15 to $30. If is still has crispness but with folds or creases, the range $40 to $80. Uncirculated notes start at $150.

The closest date for which I can find listings is 1922, and there are several possible denominations. Please check your bill again and post a new question with its exact date and its denomination.

The US didn't print any bills dated 1932. Please check your bill and post a new, separate question.

The value of the 5 dollar 1936 silver certificate is not available because there was no certificate of this denomination issued in 1936. The certificate is most likely a fake.

The 1899 $5 silver certificate depicts Running Antelope, one of the most famous warriors, orators, and a tribal chief in the Sioux Nation.

He is one of the few individual Native Americans to be honored on a piece of US currency. Others were composite images (e.g. the chief depicted on the Indian Head nickel), posed portrayals (the Indian Head cent) or interpretations (the Sacajawea dollar).

The bill was controversial, not because it depicted a Native American warrior but because its designers engraved a Pawnee headdress on Running Antelope's portrait rather than showing the correct Sioux headdress.

Please post a new question with the bill's denomination. Every denomination from $5 to $100 was printed in that series.

Red ink indicates the bill is a United States Note, a form of paper money issued directly by the government instead of by the Federal Reserve System.

During the 20th century US Notes only made up a small fraction of bills in circulation. They had similar designs to and were completely equivalent to green-seal Federal Reserve Notes, so production was discontinued in the late 1960s to save on printing and distribution costs.

These were saved in great numbers and retail for about $1.25.

Note that ALL 1957 silver certificates have the motto on them, as required by a 1955 act of Congress.

If it has a blue seal, $55 to $70

If it has a red seal, $400 to $1000. In this case you should get a couple of competing appraisals.

Your bill retails for about $45 in worn condition, up to maybe $75 in better condition.

To explain what you have, at the start of WW2 the government took many bills from the 1934 and 1935 series and overprinted them with HAWAII. They were shipped to that territory to replace ordinary bills so that they could be declared worthless in the event of a Japanese invasion. The fear was that if the Imperial Army captured a lot of ordinary U.S. currency they could use it to buy weapons as well as making counterfeit copies.

No, they will remain a valid currency. In over a century, the only time the US ever withdrew any paper money occurred in 1933 when the country went off the gold standard and a form of paper money called gold certificates had to be exchanged for other bills. Technically all forms of paper money can still be spent but

(a) most people wouldn't recognize anything older than 20 or 30 years and

(b) a lot of older bills are worth more as collectibles than their face value

However, paper money does wear out. When a bank receives a worn bill it's returned to the Federal Reserve system. Money deposited with a Federal Reserve Bank will be evaluated for quality and will be replaced if they do not meet strict standards. As of 2015, $1 and $5 bills have the shortest lifespans (4 to 5 years, depending on the source cited) while $100 bills are in circulation the longest (about 15 years).

The U.S. did not print any $5 with that date. Please check again and post a new question. Also include whether there is a letter next to the date.

$100 bills don't get as much use as smaller denominations so they don't wear out as fast. That means $100 bills as old as 1981 really don't have any added value if they turn up in circulation. However, a nice crisp uncirculated $100 with that date might be worth an additional $10 to $15 at retail.

Regardless of the district or series letter, values as of 09/2012 are $65-$95 in circulated condition and $350 or more uncirculated.

The U.S. didn't print any $1 bills with that date. Please check again and post a new question. If there is a small letter next to the date please include that in your posting.

The U.S. did not print any $2 bills with that date.

Please check again and post a new question. Include the bill's seal color, and what letter (if any) is printed right next to the date.

The U.S. did not print any $5 bills with that date. Please check again and if your bill has a different date or is from a different country, please post a new question with that information.

If it's a U.S. bill and there is a small letter next to the date, include that with your question. The serial number isn't needed so you don't have to copy it.

The only U.S. bills with a 1935 date are $1 blue-seal silver certificates.

Please check your bill and post a new question with the corrected date. Also include the seal color and whether there is a small letter next to the date. You do not need to copy the serial number - it doesn't help to ID a bill.

Many bills were printed with the date 1934, and several denominations were issued in 1953, so perhaps your bill has one of those two dates.