because many different surfaces have different porous surfaces that will accept cover coatings in a different manner. Example-- wood has a very porous surface...if you shelac, let dry and then sand with a regular piece of writing paper the shelac coating will turn into an extreme smoothe coating making it easier for the next coat to go on much smoother than the one before that.
You do not "lube" the gasket with anything. If it is a flat paper gasket, you can use any shelac type sealer, but you don't have to as these will usually swell with contact with coolant and seal. If it is the kind that is a rubber ring around the thermostat itself, these require no sealant as pressure alone seal the housing to the motor.
Silicone has it's place but a water pump is not it. Shelac or copper coat does a better job. The gasket may swell and seal on it's own, if not, the powder form of stop leak should seal it or do over with different sealant.
If the finish has not started to bubble or peel you can probably just polish the surface to regain most of the original appearance. Depending on the type of finish on the piece, most of the newer finishes are quite resistant to heat damage and water stains. Older finishes, especially shelac and laquer, tend to be more fragile. Older varnish tends to soften with repeated exposure to oil and is also heat sensitive. If the finish is damaged but the wood still appears to be solid and hasn't warped or started to char, you will need to refinish the surface.
Most people I know simply paint the car a single solid color using a can of spray paint. Now if you want a really nice paint job, start by sanding the wood very smooth with progressively higher grades of sandpaper. The smoother the surface of the wood, the better the paint job will turn out. Next use a primer spray on the wood (the makers of Killz have a good shelac primer called Zissner BIN that you can find at Home Depot). After the primer dries, sand the primer smooth and coat again with primer. Follow this by one more round of sanding. Then spray a coat or two of the paint you want on the car. After this dies, spray on a clear gloss sealer, but be careful about what sealer you use. Some spray sealers do not work with some paints and can ruin the paint job. A nice universal gloss sealer I've found is Future brand floor wax. It's compatible with almost every kind of spray paint (but does not work well with kids washable paints, as the paint will run). Apply the floor wax with a small brush to the car and let it dry well. If you are looking for a really nice paint that looks good on Pinewood Derby cars, try Krylon X-Metal or Duplicolor MetalCast spray paints (usually found at automotive stores). This paint require a metallic silver primer to be sprayed on the car first, followed by the metallic color that you wish to use. This paint takes about 5 days to dry, but it produces a beautiful car shine and is very forgiving for amature Pinewood Derby car painters. I especially like using MetalCast Red paint.
Answer oak flooringTraditional 3/4" thick oak flooring is laid opposite direction of the floor joist. Make sure the room is relativly square. Start with the groove side against the wall, leaving a 3/4" inch gap between the wall and the first piece for expantion. 3/4" inch plywood underlayment strips work for this. Nail down at an angle through the tongue approx. 4/5 degree angle. run about 4-5 feet of flooring, staggering each row back several inches and take 4-5 rows across at a time. Finish one 5 count row the length of the room and repeat till done. The entire floor then needs to be sanded till smooth and probably 3 coats of finish, usually polyurethane although older floors are covered with shelac. There is a tool available that drives the boards together and then nails it at the right angle. Saves a lot of time and wear on the knees. Not usually a job for a beginner, but can be done. The thin laminete flooring snaps together and just about anyone can do it.