The main, rod and cam bearings will be the first to go.
depending on if the engine has been ran for long after the liner broke, it can normally be replaced, depending on the damage you may need new piston, valves piston rings etc
i find the polished rings do not seal for a long time if at all. i use conventional straight lip rings.
i find the polished rings do not seal for a long time if at all. i use conventional straight lip rings.
Replace them! There is no quick fix for a mechanical issue. There is nothing that you can pour into the engine. There are no slip chuck ways of doing it. Do it the correct way, it is cheaper in the long run.
No, this is just another in a long line of scams to rid you of your money. It does not work and never will. The only cure for worn rings is an overhaul.
The clearance between piston and cylinder walls is much larger than you might think; perhaps .05" or even more. The reason for such a large gap is partly manufacturing tolerances, but even more because of differential expansion of piston and cylinder as the engine first starts up and heats up.Both problems are solved by making the piston undersized and machining three or more rectangular section grooves around the outer surface of the piston. A hardened steel ring fits into each groove; it is sprung such that it presses against the cylinder wall. These piston rings take up the difference in diameter between piston and cylinder, and automatically compensate for differential expansion. They also take up wear as the engine ages. Another bonus is that the piston itself does not rub against the cylinder wall. The resistance to wear which is necessary for long engine life comes from the hardened steel rings. The piston does not have to be made of hardened steel, and many are actually made from aluminium.
the rings kind of seal in the sides of the piston with the cylinder wall. When a compression test is done the air is escaping between the piston and the cylinder where the good ring would normally seal. If you are getting low compression it is more likely the valves
It would be wise to replace the rings while you have it apart. Need to deglaze the cylinder walls and install a new set of STEEL Rings. Do not use CHROME RINGS because they will not seat. And it will use oil then. Why are you rebuilding the engine in the first place? If parts of the engine are worn it would be reasonable to assume that the rings and/or cylinders are also worn. To do it right, have the cylinders tested for "taper", that will show you how much wear the cylinders have experienced, and if there is much taper you'll need to bore the engine and replace the pistons/rings. Tapered cylinders mean that the rings will constantly be moving against the piston ring groves. Also, check the piston ring groves for wear. If the ring grove is excessive the pistons will fail soon and the money you put into the rebuild will be wasted. Personally, I would never rebuild an engine without AT LEAST replacing the rings, even if there is no appreciable cylinder taper, and experience suggests that it's not even a good idea to reuse pistons. Odds are against an engine lasting very long if you reuse pistons that have much use.
If the block has been bored and honed with modern equipment, you should have no problem getting moly rings to seal properly. Iron rings seal faster, but don't last as long.
Usually not. The seals in a rotary that does the job of the piston rings in a piston engine have a much harder job to do, and tend not to last as long. Agreed. The "Wankel" was a good concept, an engine with one moving part but never lived up to it's potential. The above answer is an excellent example. The trouble mostly came from balancing the rotor, as it did not rotate in a perfect 360 degree circle and oil seals were prone to failure
A) water in the gas tank B) fried piston rings C) long term engine neglect
I did back in 2001 , and have used 100 % synthetic oil in my 1995 Ford Explorer ever since . As long as your engine is healthy ( doesn't leak or burn any oil ) I had about 51,000 miles on my engine when I did so I knew the piston rings had " worn in " As long as you use the same weight of engine oil that the manufacturer recommends and it meets the manufacturers specifications ( P.S. I'm not a mechanic / technician )