They perform the same function, but, they are not the same.
No
Here's the basics on mounting the scope on a rifle. ( Assuming you have a scope mount on the rifle.) 1. Place the bottom half of the scope rings on the rifle first (Without the scope attached.) 2. Place the scope on the bottom half of the rings and adjust the scope mounts to comfortably fit your eye. When adjusted, tighten down the bottom half of scope rings to the rifle mount. ( The scope should have one cross hair adjustment at the top and one on the right.) 3. Place the scope in the rings and then put the top half of the rings on. Tighten them down, but not VICE tight, just loose. You still want to move the scope some. 4. Look through the scope and align the cross hairs level with the rifle barrel. The Vertical line should be straight up and down at a right angle with the barrel. 5. when you have the scope adjusted to your eye and the barrel of the rifle, tighten the top scope rings in a crisscross pattern a little at a time. Don't vice one down then go to the next one. Do it a few turns on each one until they are tight. A final note. If you have a small screw hole and screw at the back end of the scope mount (on the rifle) you may want to place the rear scope ring against that screw. This is a scope stop. This will keep the scope from moving back from the recoil. Some scope mounts have a long pad at the rear of the scope mount that acts the same way. It's usually necessary on high powered rifles not 22's.
You are asking this question in the Shotgun category, so I must say that you don't scope a shotgun. Here's the basics on mounting the scope on a rifle. ( Assuming you have a scope mount on the rifle.) 1. Place the bottom half of the scope rings on the rifle first (Without the scope attached.) 2. Place the scope on the bottom half of the rings and adjust the scope mounts to comfortably fit your eye. When adjusted, tighten down the bottom half of scope rings to the rifle mount. ( The scope should have one cross hair adjustment at the top and one on the right.) 3. Place the scope in the rings and then put the top half of the rings on. Tighten them down, but not VICE tight, just loose. You still want to move the scope some. 4. Look through the scope and align the cross hairs level with the rifle barrel. The Vertical line should be straight up and down at a right angle with the barrel. 5. when you have the scope adjusted to your eye and the barrel of the rifle, tighten the top scope rings in a crisscross pattern a little at a time. Don't vice one down then go to the next one. Do it a few turns on each one until they are tight. A final note. If you have a small screw hole and screw at the back end of the scope mount (on the rifle) you may want to place the rear scope ring against that screw. This is a scope stop. This will keep the scope from moving back from the recoil. Some scope mounts have a long pad at the rear of the scope mount that acts the same way. It's usually necessary on high powered rifles not 22's. You most certainly can and should scope your shotguns as long as your state allows the use of scopes on them. I have scopes on all of my shotguns, and especially my slug gun!
More information is necessary. If the rifle has a 4-lug bolt head, it is the same as a Mossberg 810. Research the 810 for info on this rifle. It may be made on FN Mauser 98 actions, in which case it will be like any other Mauser 98 sporter. Otherwise, it will be German made by Heym and is either the same as a Mauser 2000 or Mauser 3000 action. The scope, on the other hand, is almost impossible to describe these days. It will likely have Japanese optics.
depends on distance to target, and on the scope. Many are 1/8th MOA- at 100 yards, 8 clicks equals one inch- but not all scopes are the same.
No, the term "click" in map reading typically refers to moving one milliradian, which may not directly translate to the adjustment on a sniper rifle scope. The distance of 1000 yards on a map would generally be greater than one click adjustment on a sniper rifle scope, which typically adjusts for a much smaller increment, such as 1/4 MOA or 1/10 mil.
You mount it the same way you mount a scope. The rifle or gun must have an 11MM or Weaver mount on the barrel for the red dot to attach to.
If I were you I would first measure the hole distance on the rifle,center to center on the rear 2 holes and see if the measurement is the same on the nightforce mount.I would then measure the distance fron the 2 rear holes to the front 2 holes and see if that measurement is the same as on the nightforce mount.Then you will have positive proof that the nightforce mount will fit or not.
i just bought the same model at the big 5 with scope for about 425.00 good price synthitic thou it has a clip!?
Your going to need a rifle clamp or Sandbags to hold the rifle steady.With the scope mounted on the rifle ( Look up the answerto "How do you scope a rifle")Load the rifle and set up a target at the distance you intend to shoot. ei 20 yards. Use a fairly large target. I use a large cardboard box filled with paper.Using a sandbag or rifle clamp, aim the rifle at the target, clamp or sandbag the rifle as best you can and fire your first shot. (DO not move the rifle after the shot is fired. (It will jump a little) look though the scope and use the two adjusting knobs on the scope to adjust the cross-hairs to the impact point not the center of the target.Now reload the rifle again and do the same thing over again. This time aim at the target center. Sandbag and fire your second shot. Make any correction to the new impact point. The new impact point should be closer to the target center. Remember do not move the rifle after the shot, keep it steady and make the adjustments. Then you can move the rifle to reload it.It may take you 4 or 5 times to get it centered but it will happen. I always take a black marker and mark my impact point after each shot so I don't confuse it with the new impact point from the pellet.Suggestions. USE good quality pellets. Don't use lightweight pellets like the Raptors. lightweight pellets wonder off target in a slight breeze. The heaver the pellet the straighter it travels. I recommend H&N pellets or Beeman target pellets.The easy way is to go out and purchase a laser scope site. The laser fits into the barrel and projects a laser light on the target where the barrel is aimed. Then all you have to do is adjust you scope to the laser dot on the target. But that's too easy.
Most people have trouble mounting scopes. 1. Mount the rear scope base ring on the rifle first. Just the bottom half. Make it tight 2. Mount the front bottom half of the scope ring next. Use the scope to align the fit to your eve. Do not mount the top of the scope rings in this step. 3. with the scope adjusted to your eye mount the top of the scope rings but not real tight just snug. Look through the scope to make sure the cross-hairs are aligned with the barrel. 4. with an Allen wrench or screwdriver tighten down the rings using a crossover pattern. (left rear screw. front right screw. right rear screw. left front screw) a little at a time until tight. ) Now do the same to the other scope ring. Do not over tighten and strip out the screw holes. 5. most people try to put the rings on the scope first then try to put in on the rifle. This never works it will always come loose. The scope ring bases have to be mounted on the rifle first, then the scope comes last. your next step is aligning the scope to your target but you didn't ask about that so I'll leave that for another question
1. Using a sandbag, set up your rifle so that it doesn't move around much.2. Aim the air rifle at a target using the iron sights.3. Adjust the windage and elevation of the scope until it is pointing at the target while the iron sights are pointing at the same target.4. Try it out, see what happens. Fire three shot groups and adjust based on the center of this group.