The shroud around the extractor rod was developed during World War ! to keep mud out of the revolver action.
The shroud also serves to protect the extractor rod from damage that would put the revolver out of action by bending the rod and or damage the crane assembly.
The revolver is somewhat delicate, and although more versatile than the automatic in the ammunition it can handle and the repeat capability of firing, it is more subject to physical damage than other pistols.
Extracting things!
Best left to a gunsmith
If it's a modern revolver, you activate the cylinder release, open the cylinder, and push the ejector rod.
There are at least two different designs for this revolver- one WITH acylinder release latch, one without. The cylinder release is a checkered metal plate on the left side, above the trigger. Push the release forward, and swing the cylinder out to the left.For the version with no cylinder release latch, grasp the extractor rod (thin rod that sticks out of the front of the cylinder) between thumb and finger, pull forward, and while holding, swing cylinder out to left.
The Smith And Wesson model 66 is a 357 magnum caliber, 6 shot revolver of stainless steel constructionTo disassemble the revolver, first remove the grip screw from the left side of the revolver as the revolver barrel faces to the left.When the grips are removed the side plate will be fully visible.Remove the screws from the side plate.To remove the side plate, hold the revolver to the horizontal position with the side plate facing down. Do not pry off the side plate as that will damage the side plate fit.Sharply rap the now exposed grip frame with a wood or plastic hammer until the side plate loosens. Continue to rap, and the side plate will fall off along with the hammer block, so be sure it falls on a padded surface.At this point most internal parts will be visible and accessible.The cylinder can be removed by sliding the cylinder crane to the left and out of the frame, while holding the cylinder in place.The cylinder will now be free.Removal of the extractor rod and extractor will not be described here, but the extractor rod is threaded in reverse to prevent loosening while operating. Caution: The extractor rod assembly is very often damaged in attempts to unscrew it. Also, it is necessary to support the extractor while unscrewing the extractor rod.To reassemble the revolver, do the above in reverse, making sure the hammer block is in place and the side plate seats correctly.You can tap on the side plate with a wood or plastic tool to seat it properly.Replace the cylinder crane and cylinder. Be sure the correct screw is used to hold the cylinder crane to the frame.Replace the remaining side plate screws in the correct place along with the grips and grip screw.Holding back the hammer slightly, or with the hammer cocked, look in the gap between the hammer and frame to be sure the hammer block has been replaced.A word of caution here: before making alterations or repairs know exactly what you are doing. Revolvers are delicate and expensive machinery.
Best left to a gunsmith
The cylinder lock and cylidner rod.
Advantages of the Harrington rod are its relative simplicity of installation, the low rate of complications, and a proven record of reducing curvature of the spine.
The Smith and Wesson J, K, L and N frame revolvers share the same basic procedure for disassembly and reassembly.To disassemble the revolver, first remove the grip screw from the left side of the revolver as the revolver barrel faces to the left.When the grips are removed the side plate will be fully visible.Remove the screws from the side plate.To remove the side plate, hold the revolver to the horizontal position with the side plate facing down. Do not pry off the side plate as that will damage the side plate fit.Sharply rap the now exposed grip frame with a wood or plastic hammer until the side plate loosens. Continue to rap, and the side plate will fall off along with the hammer block, so be sure it falls on a padded surface.At this point most internal parts will be visible and accessible.The cylinder can be removed by sliding the cylinder crane to the left and out of the frame, while holding the cylinder in place.The cylinder will now be free.Removal of the extractor rod and extractor will not be described here, but the extractor rod is threaded in reverse to prevent loosening while operating. Caution: The extractor rod assembly is very often damaged in attempts to unscrew it. Also, it is necessary to support the extractor while unscrewing the extractor rod.To reassemble the revolver, do the above in reverse, making sure the hammer block has been replaced and the side plate seats correctly.You can tap on the side plate with a wood or plastic tool to seat it properly.Replace the cylinder crane and cylinder. Be sure the correct screw is used to hold the cylinder crane to the frame.Replace the remaining side plate screws in the correct place along with the grips and grip screw.Holding back the hammer slightly, or with the hammer cocked, look in the gap between the hammer and frame to be sure the hammer block has been replaced. If not the side plate must be removed again and the hammer block must be added.A word of caution here: before making alterations or repairs know exactly what you are doing. Revolvers are delicate and expensive machinery.
The Smith and Wesson J, K, L and N frame revolvers share the same basic procedure for disassembly and reassembly.To disassemble the revolver, first remove the grip screw from the left side of the revolver as the revolver barrel faces to the left.When the grips are removed the side plate will be fully visible.Remove the screws from the side plate.To remove the side plate, hold the revolver to the horizontal position with the side plate facing down. Do not pry off the side plate as that will damage the side plate fit.Sharply rap the now exposed grip frame with a wood or plastic hammer until the side plate loosens. Continue to rap, and the side plate will fall off along with the hammer block, so be sure it falls on a padded surface.At this point most internal parts will be visible and accessible.The cylinder can be removed by sliding the cylinder crane to the left and out of the frame, while holding the cylinder in place.The cylinder will now be free.Removal of the extractor rod and extractor will not be described here, but the extractor rod is threaded in reverse to prevent loosening while operating. Caution: The extractor rod assembly is very often damaged in attempts to unscrew it. Also, it is necessary to support the extractor while unscrewing the extractor rod.To reassemble the revolver, do the above in reverse, making sure the hammer block has been replaced and the side plate seats correctly.You can tap on the side plate with a wood or plastic tool to seat it properly.Replace the cylinder crane and cylinder. Be sure the correct screw is used to hold the cylinder crane to the frame.Replace the remaining side plate screws in the correct place along with the grips and grip screw.Holding back the hammer slightly, or with the hammer cocked, look in the gap between the hammer and frame to be sure the hammer block has been replaced. If not the side plate must be removed again and the hammer block must be added.A word of caution here: before making alterations or repairs know exactly what you are doing. Revolvers are delicate and expensive machinery.
Any commercial 38 special ammo can be used in a firearm marked 38 special caliber. (Remington,Federal,CCI,Fiocchi,etc.) The Colt serial number guide that I found on the internet says Colt Detective Specials with an "M"after the serial number started with the year 1975. The gun should have a shrouded extractor rod.
A bit of metal on the underside of the barrel. The ejector rod snaps into the lug when the action is closed.