The ramrod- used to push a bullet into a muzzleloading firearm.
Robert Rammer was born in 1890.
Jack the Rammer aka Billy the Rammer was a bushranger in the Monaro District near Cooma in New South Wales during the latter half of 1834. His real name was probably Billy Roberts
Skyernes skygge rammer mig - 1996 is rated/received certificates of: Denmark:11
Ramrod or rammer.
A rammer is a round piece of wood, which serves to drive home the powder and ball to the breech. It is fastened to a stick that is used to push in into the muzzle and withdraw it. Modern large artillery pieces use a hydraulic powered rammer to push the shell into the breach seating it into the rifling, before powder bags are loaded and the breach closed.
Steen Laier has written: 'Bjaelker og rammer'
Douglas R Rammer has written: 'Review of end grain nail withdrawal research' -- subject(s): Wood, Nails and spikes, Moisture 'Experimental shear strength of unchecked solid-sawn douglas-fir' -- subject(s): Testing, Girders, Douglas fir, Wooden beams
it's basically vegetable oil and dye...not "paint" it is also corn starch and paint in a ball
Molly Pitcher needed the well and a pitcher to bring water for the Patriots and her husband William Hays's rammer to take his spot when he was shot and wounded at his post at the cannon.
P. Berry Licshaft has written: 'Rough rammer' -- subject(s): Fiction, Gay erotic literature, Sexual behavior, Gay men, Sadomasochism
There are many ways to load a black powder revolver but I have found the following method to be safest and quickest. Remember that "Slow is Smooth and Smooth is Quick," rushing is not safe and accidents will happen. 1. Prove the weapon to be safe by checking that the nipples at the rear of the cylinder do not have a percussion cap on them. Then check the chambers of the cylinder are empty by looking into each one in turn. You may find a small torch helps. 2. Place the butt of the revolver on a firm surface and point the muzzle upwards holding the barrel just under the foresight. 3. Release the rammer by pulling back on the retaining catch and lower the rammer into an empty cylinder. This will stop the cylinder from moving while you load. 4. One of the chambers of the cylinder on the right of the weapon will be accessable for loading. 5. Add the Black Powder to that cylinder using a powder flask or a funnel with a premeasured charge in a vial. If you are using a powder flask look carefully into the spout to make sure it is full of powder. 6. Place a felt wad into the mouth of the cylinder. This will make sure that the ball is seated at the right depth when rammed home. Some people use a measure of an inert powder, ground rice or semolina is sometimes used, to replace the wad. the important thing is that the ball is seated to the same depth in every cylinder. About 3 or 4 millimeters from the mouth of the cylinder. 7. Place the lead ball on the mouth of the cylinder, if there is a piece of the molding sprue on the ball point it upwards. This minimised the effect of the irregularity of the ball. 8. With the hand holding the barrel lift the rammer so that the cylinder can revolve and carefull rotate the cylinder until the ball is under the rammer. The rammer has a concave face and adjust the cylinder until this fits over the ball. It is a bit fiddly at first but you soon get used to it. 9. With the free hand pull down on the rammer and press the ball into the cylinder. It will require some pressure as the ball is slighlty larger than the cylinder and you are going to shave a bit of lead off as you do it. If you meet too much resistance check that everything is lined up properly and the rammer is not pressing on the metal of the cylinder. It is very easy and expensive to bend the rammer. 10. When you are ramming the ball you want to seat it on the powder properly so there is not a gap between ball and powder but you don't need to crush the ball. Be carefull not to put too much pressure on the rammer. 11. Leave the rammer down to stop the cylinder moving and repeat the process from number 4 above. 12. Once all six cylinders are loaded lift the rammer until it locks back into place under the barrel and make sure the catch has locked it in place. IMPORTANT!You must seal the cylinders - usually done with grease or crisco, so that the fire from one cylinder does NOT IGNITE the other 5!Which, as you can imagine, will blow up the gun and the shooter's hand, perhaps more. This is very important. 13. Hold the weapon in your left hand with the cylinder in the palm of the hand and THE MUZZLE POINTING DOWNRANGE TOWARDS THE TARGET AND PARALLEL TO THE GROUND. 14. There is a cut out in the frame on the right hand side behind the cylinder and this gives access to the nipples on the rear of the cylinder. Place a percussion cap on the nipple making sure it is a tight fit. Rotate the cylinder until the next nipple is in the cutout and fit the cap. Repeat until all six nipples are capped. Some shooters remover the cylinder from the weapon and use a loading tool on the shooting bench to load the cylinders and put it back in the frame to cap the nipples. However the basic principle is the same. As a safety measure it is best to find a method which suits you and stick to it. Once you have this routine learned you will find that anything wrong will be more apparent. It is easy to be distracted and forget to put the charge in the cylinder but still load the wad and ball for example. Another tip is to count out six each of the caps, wads and ball before you start loading. If you do make a mistake it stands out more and you can check what you have done.
a rivet gun is a gun