There are many ways to load a black powder revolver but I have found the following method to be safest and quickest. Remember that "Slow is Smooth and Smooth is Quick," rushing is not safe and accidents will happen.
1. Prove the weapon to be safe by checking that the nipples at the rear of the cylinder do not have a percussion cap on them. Then check the chambers of the cylinder are empty by looking into each one in turn. You may find a small torch helps.
2. Place the butt of the revolver on a firm surface and point the muzzle upwards holding the barrel just under the foresight.
3. Release the rammer by pulling back on the retaining catch and lower the rammer into an empty cylinder. This will stop the cylinder from moving while you load.
4. One of the chambers of the cylinder on the right of the weapon will be accessable for loading.
5. Add the Black Powder to that cylinder using a powder flask or a funnel with a premeasured charge in a vial. If you are using a powder flask look carefully into the spout to make sure it is full of powder.
6. Place a felt wad into the mouth of the cylinder. This will make sure that the ball is seated at the right depth when rammed home. Some people use a measure of an inert powder, ground rice or semolina is sometimes used, to replace the wad. the important thing is that the ball is seated to the same depth in every cylinder. About 3 or 4 millimeters from the mouth of the cylinder.
7. Place the lead ball on the mouth of the cylinder, if there is a piece of the molding sprue on the ball point it upwards. This minimised the effect of the irregularity of the ball.
8. With the hand holding the barrel lift the rammer so that the cylinder can revolve and carefull rotate the cylinder until the ball is under the rammer. The rammer has a concave face and adjust the cylinder until this fits over the ball. It is a bit fiddly at first but you soon get used to it.
9. With the free hand pull down on the rammer and press the ball into the cylinder. It will require some pressure as the ball is slighlty larger than the cylinder and you are going to shave a bit of lead off as you do it. If you meet too much resistance check that everything is lined up properly and the rammer is not pressing on the metal of the cylinder. It is very easy and expensive to bend the rammer.
10. When you are ramming the ball you want to seat it on the powder properly so there is not a gap between ball and powder but you don't need to crush the ball. Be carefull not to put too much pressure on the rammer.
11. Leave the rammer down to stop the cylinder moving and repeat the process from number 4 above.
12. Once all six cylinders are loaded lift the rammer until it locks back into place under the barrel and make sure the catch has locked it in place.
IMPORTANT!You must seal the cylinders - usually done with grease or crisco, so that the fire from one cylinder does NOT IGNITE the other 5!Which, as you can imagine, will blow up the gun and the shooter's hand, perhaps more. This is very important.
13. Hold the weapon in your left hand with the cylinder in the palm of the hand and THE MUZZLE POINTING DOWNRANGE TOWARDS THE TARGET AND PARALLEL TO THE GROUND.
14. There is a cut out in the frame on the right hand side behind the cylinder and this gives access to the nipples on the rear of the cylinder. Place a percussion cap on the nipple making sure it is a tight fit. Rotate the cylinder until the next nipple is in the cutout and fit the cap. Repeat until all six nipples are capped.
Some shooters remover the cylinder from the weapon and use a loading tool on the shooting bench to load the cylinders and put it back in the frame to cap the nipples. However the basic principle is the same.
As a safety measure it is best to find a method which suits you and stick to it. Once you have this routine learned you will find that anything wrong will be more apparent. It is easy to be distracted and forget to put the charge in the cylinder but still load the wad and ball for example.
Another tip is to count out six each of the caps, wads and ball before you start loading. If you do make a mistake it stands out more and you can check what you have done.
fill it all the way up get 1000 fps no worry about blowing up
You can download the manual for the Old Army cap & ball revolver that has loading and cleaning instructions from the Ruger website (see related links) under the customer service heading.
Need more of a description. Are you talking about a Black Powder revolver? Is it an original or reproduction? Depending on what you have and the condition it is in it could be worth as little as 100 or tens of thousands of USD Need more of a description. Are you talking about a Black Powder revolver? Is it an original or reproduction? Depending on what you have and the condition it is in it could be worth as little as 100 or tens of thousands of USD
I would need to know the caliber and type (revolver, single shot. flintlock, percussion) to answer the question exactly, but the best place to start is with as many grains of powder as the caliber divided by half for a hand gun or revolver as a MAXIMUM LOAD. So a .45 cal. would be about 20-23 grain. I usually start out around 12-15 grains and work from there.
Here is a link posted in the related links section, to the basics of loading a revolver. Remember to always keep your face and fingers away form the muzzle and the the open end of the cylinder. http://www.ehow.com/how_2074718_load-blackpowder-revolver.html
load data
It would depend on how the cartridge was loaded, ( powder type and amount and bullet weight's) A modern black powder load would be to about 100 yards. After that the velocity and energy drops dramatically. Smokeless powder loads would extend a bit farther.
I believe 3 grains of black powder for a start
black powder, bullet patch, projectile.
For a 44 cal pistol (not revolver) between 20 and 30 grains of 3F black powder or black powder substitute (like pyrodex or goex pinical) should do the trick. You will have to adjust the load to do what you want and to shoot the distance you want, but that should get you started. The above answer is stupid. Since most black powder pistols ARE revolvers. Fill the cylinder half full or a little more, if you do not want to play around with a grain counter,waste of time.
The powder charge for a .44 caliber revolver can vary depending on the specific cartridge and load being used. For example, a typical load for .44 Special might use around 5 to 6 grains of Unique powder, while .44 Magnum loads can range from 20 to 28 grains of powder, depending on the bullet weight and desired performance. Always refer to a reputable reloading manual for precise measurements and safety guidelines.
For the most part I have used 15 to 18 grains of 3F powder for target plinking, with good constant results. I have used as much as 25 grains when using as a back up for hunting. Best to check with the manufacturer to see the "best load and maximum loads" they recommend.