Can you change a 2 wheel drive to a 4 wheel drive?

Answer 1

It Depends on what type of vehicle you are working with. Some older chevrolets use the same frames and it could be done. The Ford series it is not recommended because the frames on 2wd are not near as strong.

did this on my 1985 Dodge D300, now it is 4x4. it took a while but, was WELL worth the $1300 in parts, (keep in mind six states messed up my driveline build and I had to pay someone else to rebuild it!) most of the bugs are worked out now but, you have to be VERY careful with your measurements, I went to the junkyard and wrote measurements on the truck frame itself, then took pictures, printed the pictures on the computer, checked my measurements, then cut out the holes in the paper, and was able to carefully overlay them on the frame, then you you just reverse the template for the opposite side. you WILL have to use a torch to cut in some of the holes, and to cut off the cold rivets that hold the frame/leaf spring perches together so that you can mount your leaf springs., you'll also need some pretty heavy duty supports to hold up the truck while you get the front end under it. I used two big tree rounds as they're completely solid and were tall enough to allow me to work under the truck, and slide the axle under. DO NOT use cinder blocks, they'll get crushed (and might get you killed), and aren't strong enough for this job, promise!

the engine cradle also has to be changed (MAJOR PAIN!) you'll need to be an expert with that torch or find someone who is, and also you'll need an air chisel to drive the rivets out of the frame so you don't cut into the frame and damage it with the torch, I also used the air chisel to help situate the engine cradle. if your doing it on a 70's or 80's dodge keep in mind the 4x4 uses two different metal mounts on either side of the engine, but the rubber insulators are the exact same (use new ones too! no sense in having them out and not replacing them). use Grade 8 bolts, and compression washers, I also used jam nuts to ensure nothing came loose as they aren't as strong as the rivets, so, they need to be SUPER TIGHT. use a good impact gun for this, then check them by hand. you'll also want to recheck things periodically to ensure that everything stays put. I used a divorced T-Case on my conversion and someone apparently had switched two of the mounting bolts to shorter ones, I Re-used them, and had my transfer case try to remove itself from the truck! I lost my rubber insulators, and the steel liners, luckily I found them later. I replaced them with longer grade 8 bolts and they have worked great, I have tested this truck well now but, even a year later I still keep an eye on things.

one final note about driveline angles..... when aligning your T-case/tranny/engine assy. you want them all as close as possible to the same angle so it makes one continuous line down the drivetrain. I purchased a digital angle gauge for table saws at Harbor Freight for this. they aren't expensive and are very helpful for this purpose. they are also magnetic, so that helps a lot as well. after you're done have the local driveline/4x4 specialty shop check your work. nothing like an experts opinion and advice! Jason