With great difficulty. Not a job for the faint of heart, I've just finished after two days in and under the car. I only needed to replace the short section of brake cable to the passenger side but this is connected to the adjusting section of the handbrake which was seized up solid, a rusty mess. Maybe some heat and WD90 could have sorted it,
but it was in a plastic bracket!
So start at the handbrakes end, slide both front seats forward and you unscrew the two bolts either side of the rear of the handbrake housing. Now remove the ashtray section by sliding a thin blade around the perimeter locating the plastic holding down clips, and gently prize it out. Then you can see the clips holding the front of the gear stick trim panel push these and lift out up and over the gear stick out of the way. Remove the two screws on either side of the ashtray compartment and pop off the two side trims to the bulkhead. Next loosen the two floor bolts, remove the curved cover in front of the handbrake, and gently move back and up with the handbrake housing which should come loose from the bulkhead but anyway gives you the room to disconnect the handbrake cable from the ratchet mechanism by levering the cable out of its groove. The securing clip retaining the outer cable to the housing has two wings? that need to be pressed in, to allow its exit!
Next remove the 6 bolts holding the heat diffuser over the exhaust, a pits good for a lot of this, car jacks and brick stacks are a no no, axle stands, trolley jacks, wheel chocks, you are going to be doing a lot of pulling and beating under there ,you need to be safe. Unclip the two clips holding the cable to the floor plan under the diffuser and the remaining clips back to the junction. Now you should be able to pull the cable from the hand break area. There must be a tool that closes these wings? to allow the cable to come free, but pliars and brute force help. Now you have to remove the wheels and the drums from the offending side to remove the old cable. Freeing the nipple from the brake shoe, beating the outer cable loose from the back plate then the inner connection to the junction. Some of these connections are plastic some alloy, but surrounded in rusted steel, but need to be prized out using a hammer and a old screwdriver to prise them apart, with lubricant. Rerfitting is from the drums first, make sure all the outer casing connections are driven fully home and that you have a pair of mole grips to clamp the inner cable to allow your final connection beware cross threading. Bon voyage I've drunk three pints of homebrew writing this,maybe its helped. Not a job for a novice!
Auto repairs are a skill that requires education, time, and patience. If you are not licensed, you should allow a professional to replace your clutch to prevent any damage. .
go to a local garage go to a local garage
you pay someone else to do it lol
replace it.
howe to change hand brake
its underneath the handbrake go under the car where the centre exhaust is there is heat shields remove them and its there a 13mm nut wind it in till cable tight but with a bit of slack onit job done
how do you change the handbrake cable on a 1997 Toyota rav4
No there are two. O/S and N/S. A kit should set you back no more than £20.
You need to remove the rear wheels and brake shoes,then disconnect the cables from them. Go to the handbrake lever inside the car, gain access and remove the cable, refitting is the reversal. Where any doubt exists, either contact a garage or buy a Haynes workshop manual for your car, the instructions are clearer with step by step photos included.
i dont no
its normally mechnical so find the steel cable and find the nut on the cable of the parking brake "handbrake" and tighten
How do you remove handbrake cable from brake caliper 3litre signum right hand side
very careully
change hand brake cable citreon relay
change hand brake cable citreon relay