Total Chlorine = Free Chlorine + Combined Chlorine
or, put another way
Total Chlorine - Free Chlorine = Combined Chlorine
Free Chlorine is the chlorine that is doing its job.
Combined Chlorine is the chlorine that has combined with contaminants such as nitrogen. It is ineffective as a sanitizer and it is noxious.
Total Chlorine is the total of these two levels.
To eliminate the Combined Chlorine (making all the chlorine in the pool Free Chlorine) you must shock the pool to remove the contaminants. You must reach "Breakpoint Chlorination", which is the addition of chlorine to your pool equivalent to the Combined Chlorine level times 10.
example:
Total Chlorine = 1.5ppm
Free Chlorine = 1.0ppm
So, the Combined Chlorine (the difference between the two tests) is .5ppm
Breakpoint chlorination, in this example would be .5ppm X 10 = 5ppm. So, in this example, you would add enough chlorine to your pool to raise the chlorine level up by 5 parts per million.
There is 3 measurements of chlorine in a pool or spa. Total chlorine, combined chlorine, and free available chlorine. Free available chlorine is the good chlorine that is active in the pool killings germs and algae. Combined chlorine is chlorine is basically chlorine that was once active but has killed germs or bacteria and is now inactive in the pool. Total chlorine is free available and combined chlorine added together. If your combined chlorine is higher than free available chlorine then the water needs to be shocked to eliminate the combined chlorine. But be careful here. If you don't reach what's called break point you will only add to the combined chlorine. There are products on the market which will only remove combined chlorine without effecting your free available chlorine if you are unsure about reaching breakpoint. Hope this helps.
Total Chlorine = Free Chlorine + Combined Chlorineor, put another wayTotal Chlorine - Free Chlorine = Combined ChlorineFree Chlorine is the chlorine that is doing its job.Combined Chlorine is the chlorine that has combined with contaminants such as nitrogen. It is ineffective as a sanitizer and it is noxious.Total Chlorine is the total of these two levels.To eliminate the Combined Chlorine (making all the chlorine in the pool Free Chlorine) you must shock the pool to remove the contaminants. You must reach "Breakpoint Chlorination", which is the addition of chlorine to your pool equivalent to the Combined Chlorine level times 10.example:Total Chlorine = 1.5ppmFree Chlorine = 1.0ppmSo, the Combined Chlorine (the difference between the two tests) is .5ppmBreakpoint chlorination, in this example would be .5ppm X 10 = 5ppm. So, in this example, you would add enough chlorine to your pool to raise the chlorine level up by 5 parts per million.
Technically no. Your total chlorine reading would include all forms of chlorine, which we tend to lump into to basic categories, Free and combined. If you get readings that show that the free amount is higher then total, I would suggest a retest. If you are still getting the same result, I would try another test or different reagents. I'm sure there might be something that could give you false results and that might be what id happening in this case. Actually it can happen because it happened to me today i saw it happen that the free chlorine was 2.49 and after the 2 minute waiting period the test was 0.33 and the sample was visibly less pink than when the DPD 1 was tested, there has to be some reason for this or some way to fix it as if we are using the same reagents for other samples and it is working for those then this must mean that there is something wrong with the water i a, testing and not the tablets i am testing with! The total reading after time will drop if the residual level is high enough and there is not enough DPD. Hach recommends for using a 5 ml sample instead of 10 ml and 2 power pillows instead of 1. This gives four times the DPD to do the analysis. With very high levels you can see a flash of dark color and then go to clear as the chlorine bleaches the color from the DPD. The addition of extra DPD overcomes the bleaching effect.
Do you have a chlorine generator? No.
DO NOT PERFORM THIS ACT!!! Chlorine tablets, or just chlorine in general, is HIGHLY TOXIC in high amounts!! You will get chlorine poisoning, your tongue may fall off, and you could possibly die if enough chlorine is introduced into your system.
You need to shock the pool. The difference between Total Chlorine and Free Chlorine is tied up and it will be cleared by shocking. Thatis the purpose of shocking.
my free chlorine level is way to high above ten my pool is 12 by 24 what can i do to fix it
There is 3 measurements of chlorine in a pool or spa. Total chlorine, combined chlorine, and free available chlorine. Free available chlorine is the good chlorine that is active in the pool killings germs and algae. Combined chlorine is chlorine is basically chlorine that was once active but has killed germs or bacteria and is now inactive in the pool. Total chlorine is free available and combined chlorine added together. If your combined chlorine is higher than free available chlorine then the water needs to be shocked to eliminate the combined chlorine. But be careful here. If you don't reach what's called break point you will only add to the combined chlorine. There are products on the market which will only remove combined chlorine without effecting your free available chlorine if you are unsure about reaching breakpoint. Hope this helps.
Total Chlorine = Free Chlorine + Combined Chlorineor, put another wayTotal Chlorine - Free Chlorine = Combined ChlorineFree Chlorine is the chlorine that is doing its job.Combined Chlorine is the chlorine that has combined with contaminants such as nitrogen. It is ineffective as a sanitizer and it is noxious.Total Chlorine is the total of these two levels.To eliminate the Combined Chlorine (making all the chlorine in the pool Free Chlorine) you must shock the pool to remove the contaminants. You must reach "Breakpoint Chlorination", which is the addition of chlorine to your pool equivalent to the Combined Chlorine level times 10.example:Total Chlorine = 1.5ppmFree Chlorine = 1.0ppmSo, the Combined Chlorine (the difference between the two tests) is .5ppmBreakpoint chlorination, in this example would be .5ppm X 10 = 5ppm. So, in this example, you would add enough chlorine to your pool to raise the chlorine level up by 5 parts per million.
Chlorine levels should be between 1-5 ppm
You only need to shock the pool if there is visible algae, or if the ppm of total chlorine is higher than the ppm of free chlorine. Generally, a level of 2-4 ppm chlorine is all you need to keep your pool sanitary. Let the level drop to that on its own, or use sodium thiosulfate to drop it quickly if you notice itchy skin from excessive chlorine.
To give you an accurate answer, it's important to know how many gallons are in the pool, how high is your Free Available Chlorine (FAC), and what is your Combined Chlorine Reading. Is pool enclosed and protected from sun etc? Is your chlorine generator working properly? You could simply shut down the generator and test your pool everyday at the same time. Keep records of pH, Free Chlorine, Combined Chlorine, Alkalinity, etc. It's important that you maintain a proper pH at ALL TIMES.
Technically no. Your total chlorine reading would include all forms of chlorine, which we tend to lump into to basic categories, Free and combined. If you get readings that show that the free amount is higher then total, I would suggest a retest. If you are still getting the same result, I would try another test or different reagents. I'm sure there might be something that could give you false results and that might be what id happening in this case. Actually it can happen because it happened to me today i saw it happen that the free chlorine was 2.49 and after the 2 minute waiting period the test was 0.33 and the sample was visibly less pink than when the DPD 1 was tested, there has to be some reason for this or some way to fix it as if we are using the same reagents for other samples and it is working for those then this must mean that there is something wrong with the water i a, testing and not the tablets i am testing with! The total reading after time will drop if the residual level is high enough and there is not enough DPD. Hach recommends for using a 5 ml sample instead of 10 ml and 2 power pillows instead of 1. This gives four times the DPD to do the analysis. With very high levels you can see a flash of dark color and then go to clear as the chlorine bleaches the color from the DPD. The addition of extra DPD overcomes the bleaching effect.
Do you have a chlorine generator? No.
How do you know that it is too high? If you are using a home test kit it will show the total chlorine, which includes free chlorine and combined chlorine. Only free chlorine can sanitize the pool. Combined chlorine is broken apart by "shocking" the pool with 1L liquid chlorine per 10000L of water in the pool. (For most pools 10L is fine if you're unsure of the pool volume.) Chlorine will disipate on its own anyways. Sidenote: Are you using a lot of chlorine pucks? They contain stabilizer, which is used to keep the chlorine from burning off in the sun too quickly. If it is overused the chlorine will burn off too slowly. Are you getting readings above 10.0 ppm of chlorine? What is too high? Do you smell the chlorine? Then there's not enough chlorine. Simple as that. K
Free chlorine is effective against all pathogenic contaminants when added to water in high concentrations and provided a long enough contact time.However, at practical concentrations free chlorine is ineffective in dis-activating protozoa, particularly Cryptosporidium, Parvum oocysts and Giardia lamblia cysts.
Adjust your chlorine generator levels.