Check the gauges, if the car is equipped with them. If you have a volt/amp gauge, it will read the alternator output for you. Turn on the blower fan for the AC or Heater, the headlamps, and any other accessories that put a strain on the alternator, and watch the gauge to see if it decreases voltage or amperage. As a rule, if the voltmeter is higher when the engine is running then when the engine is not, you can confidently assume that the alternator is charging. Check it at the battery with the engine running. It will show at least 13.5 volts if the alternator is good. If these values decrease when you turn on electrical accessories, the alternator may be weak. Listen to the alternator while the engine is running. If there is a problem with the bearings you may hear a squealing sound coming from the front of the car, which becomes louder with more electrical accessories using power at the same time. Feel the alternator after the engine has run a few minutes and you turn the engine off. If it is very hot, you may have wear to the bearings or the insulation on the copper windings may be breaking down, an indication the part may fail soon.
To actually measure the charging current on a cheap modern digital volt meter: Set meter to most accurate voltage range, with the engine off measure the voltage between chassis and chassis connection at the battery, this should be nearly 0 volts, now turn the headlights on, the headflights will draw about 10 Amps and the volts drop across battery earth to chassis will show about 50 millivolts dependent on the resistance of the earth strap. Remember 50mV is proportional to 10 Amps. Turn the headlights off and start the engine, the meter will show the charging current and this will be in the opposite polarity as the current will flow in the opposite (charging) direction. for example if the meter shows 100mV the alternator will be charging at 20A. turn the headlights on and you will see the charging current to the battery reduce as half the alternator current goes into the lights.
Charge it, replace it,test the alternator,Charge it, replace it,test the alternator,
The alternator must be running to test without disassembly. If you remove it, many auto part stores will test at no charge. One test is a voltage test. Start the engine and use a multimeter to check the voltage at the battery. It should read between 13.5 and 16 volts. Any less or more and the alternator is bad.
Get a digital multimeter (or, if you're cool like me, you have a test light with a voltmeter built in). Find a good ground, then put the contact to the alternator output. At low idle, you should be measuring between 13.6 and 14.6 volts, depending on what your alternator is and what type of vehicle you have.
Get a digital multimeter. Place the black wire to ground, and place the red one at the electrical output on the alternator. You should be getting about 14 volts at high idle.
You would start by diagnosing the problem. You'll have a difficult time repairing a defect without first identifying what it is. First, have a charging system test done, and find out what the state of your battery is. After that, you can take a digital multimeter or test light and test your electrical system from the alternator back to the battery.
To measure voltage, current and resistance.
A simple test is to start the engine and let it run at idle. Connect a digital multimeter set to 20 volts DC to the battery. Red to + and black to -. If the alternator is good you will read from 13.5 to 15.5 volts. This tells you allot but is not a definitive test. To test it completely drive to your local auto parts store and have then test it under load. Most will do this for free.
If you don't have a battery load tester, you'll have to use a digital multimeter to test for voltage and amperage.
Most auto parts stores will test your charging system for zip.
Use a digital multimeter and test it for resistance.
The first thing you need to do is charge you battery & load test it if possible, make sure all your connections are tight and clean, the battery should have 12.5 volts when it is not running (check with a multimeter) when the unit is running it should have 14-15 volts. if not you have a bad alternator or a problem with the wiring past the alternator.
Use a multimeter or digital multimeter and set it to the ohmmeter mode. Put the test leads on the speaker terminals. It won't be perfect, but if it says 1.8 ohms or so then it's a 2 ohm speaker.