proper answer: the ignition timing is controlled by the ECU , the or the engine computer as some might called. today the ECU is called the PCM. the timing is set on the fly using lookup tables inside the ECU. these tables are indexed by RPM and Load (vacuum). the base timing is set by the distributer or at a CAS sensor. (crank angle sensor ) the 95 uses a Distributor. (with a cmp/cas inside) if you timing does not advance then the ECU is faulty or one of the following: 1: Freeze jumper is shorted to ground (8vECU pin A7) or at the diagnostic connector C>D short. 2: the Map sensor is dead freezing the timing or grossly limiting the advance to only that achieved by RPM. This is a common failure mode ,and can be corrected by replacing all the ECU Electrolytic capacitors. The static timing is set to 8 Deg. Before TDC or 5 degrees, depending on whether you have a 8valve or 16v engine. if you discover the ignition static timing is off, check the can timing , and if that is off, install a new belt and idler. you will discover the ignition timing is now back to normal. (unless you messed with it). to set the static timing, place a jumper at C>D as mentioned above and then apply the timing light. rotate Distributor until perfect. jtgh
Ignition Timing Advancers are mechanical 'bolt-on' pieces to advance the ignition timing of the engine to a specific degree of timing advance. The majority of its application for these parts are for motorcycles or on racing applications.
Ignition Timing Advancers are mechanical 'bolt-on' pieces to advance the ignition timing of the engine to a specific degree of timing advance. The majority of its application for these parts are for motorcycles or on racing applications.
around 6-8 degrees with the vacuum advance blocked off. electronic ignition has no vacuum advance! How does one blank off the electronic advance???
pre-ignition
10 degrees advance
mustang 10 +/-2dgrees
Answer it could be that the vacuum advance on the distributor is not working. You need a timing light to be able to tell, but when the accelerator is pushed down, this causes the engine vacuum to increase, which should automatically advance the ignition timing. If the hose has come loose, or has a hole in it, the distributor will not advance. The vacuum advance itself also might be bad. A bad spark plug(s) or spark plug wire(s) could also cause those symptoms.
cam timing will not change ignition timing i would try 8 or 10 degees advance at idle with the vacuum advance disconnected.
There are two types of distributors that can be used, the original vacuum advance type and the Bosch mechanical advance distributor that does not use vacuum. The Bosch is best for high performance use, but the vacuum advance delivers the best city driving performance. Users of the mechanical advance typically complain about the 'flat spot' or hesitation on take off, but the flat out acceleration is superior. Electronic ignition distributors are now available in both types for conversion from the antiquated 'points' type ignition. The "standard" aftermarket distributor is the Bosch 009. They are very good and reliable and I have installed the Pertronics electronic ignition module instead of points and condenser and am very happy with it. I use a high output coil and can increase my spark plug gap to get better spark and better ignition and combustion. I have never noticed a decrease in gas mileage simply by replacing the distributor. The funny thing about the 009 is this; it's a great distributor, it works well, and has a great acceleration curve, but the standard single vacuum advance distributor works BETTER in most cases. I'm currently experimenting with changing out my 009 with a stock single vacuum advance 049. I've heard good things about them. Basically, if you can fit the distributor in the hole, the distributor should work just fine for your VW.
this question does not make sense. try again buddy. :)
The total timing advance on a 1995 Chevrolet 350 engine should be around 35 degrees. This takes into account the advance provided by the ignition system.
Increased combustion chambers temps or too much ignition advance.