What would you like to do?
How often do you need to change brake pads or rotors on a car?
Brake Pads: Depends on the warranted life of the pads already on your car. If you have 10,000-mile brake pads, you need to replace them every 10,000 miles. However, if you hear a grinding noise coming from your wheels, regardless of the mileage on your pads, you probably need to replace the pads. If you haven't put that many miles on your pads, you can probably get free replacements pads from the store that sold you the pads or the garage that installed them. (Be aware that "lifetime" brake pads don't really last forever. Auto parts manufacturers only call them that because 1) they DO last a very long time, 2) most car owners will sell or junk their cars long before the pads need to be changed and the warrantee does not effectively transfer to the new owner, and 3) the price of the original lifetime pads is high enough that, in the few cases where customers try to make a claim on the warrantee, the auto parts store is still coming out ahead. So, even if you have lifetime brake pads, you need to check them if you start hearing that grinding noise.) Rotors: The only time you should have to replace your rotors is if you damage them because of driving for an extended period with completely worn-down brake pads. The "grinding noise" I mentioned before is the sound of the screws in the base of brake pads (which are completely worn down) grinding a groove in your rotors. Ideally, you should replace your brake pads before you hear this noise. But sometimes this is not feasible. However, once you hear the noise, the sooner you can get the pads replaced, the less likely it is that you will have to replace the rotors. But, even if you drive, say, 1,000 miles like that, there is a chance that the rotors can be "turned". This means that the garage will grind down the entire surface of the rotors until it is even with the bottom of the groove. However, this is nearly as expensive as installing new rotors. This is what I would do. If you bought your car new, it probably came with 30-40,000-mile brake pads. If you bought it used, you don't have a clue what the warranty on the pads is, nor how much of that has been used up. Either way, just be on the lookout for that grinding noise. You'll know it when you hear it. When you hear it, you don't have to cancel your plans for that day and go straight to the garage or auto parts store (unless maybe your plans for that day involve driving 500 miles or more). But you'll want to replace them within a week or so. Since we're talking about what I would do, you can save a whole bunch of money replacing the pads yourself. The best "lifetime" brake pads you can buy are less than $50 ($100 for both front wheels), while most garages will charge you $300 for changing both front brake pads, and stick you with the cheap 10,000-mile pads. And it isn't really that hard to do. You need a few tools that might not already be in your toolbox, and that will cost you a few more bucks, but you only have to buy those tools once. But even if you had to buy them every time you changed your own brake pads, it's still a lot cheaper than paying a garage to do it for you. Another advantage to changing your own pads is that some garages will tell you that you need to replace the rotors, when you really don't. Even if you ground a deep groove in your rotors, it is only a narrow (1/4 inch wide groove, and the vast majority of the surface of your rotors is still good (though it probably won't pass a safety inspection). The garage will quote some "state law" that "forbids" them replacing the brake pads unless they also replace the rotors, which will run you another $400 on top of the $300 for replacing the pads. And if you say no, they're still going to charge you $100-200 just for taking the time to look at it, and you got nothing for your money. But if you replace the pads yourself, you can make your own call about the rotors. And if you decide the rotors do need to be replaced, you can do that yourself too, for about $200 for both front wheels. The thing is, whether you're doing it yourself or paying a garage to do it, don't try to anticipate when the pads are almost worn out. Just wait for the grinding sound, and when you hear it, change them, or get them changed, soon. Sure, if you do this enough, you're going to have to replace your rotors eventually. But if you get high-mileage pads, this will only happen every 30,000 miles or so, and over the life of your car, you will have much less damage to your rotors. But keep an eye on your calipers, especially as your vehicle gets older. Calipers are the brackets that hold the brake pads and push them against the rotor when you hit the brakes. Calipers use hydraulic piston to push the pads toward the rotors. Over time, these pistons can become "sticky", so that they don't pull back when you let off the brake. If this happens, while driving you will feel a slight pull to the side where the calipers are stuck, and may hear a constant brake rubbing noise, but not a grinding noise, at least not until the pads are completely worn down. But that's the thing. If your calipers are sticky, you will go through a pair of pads very quickly. And if you replace the pads on one side, you MUST replace the pads on the other side at the same time, even if they are not nearly as worn as the others. So, if your calipers are sticking, get them fixed pronto. Unfortunately, replacing calipers is not quite as easy as replacing brake pads and rotors. When you replace the calipers, you have to break the pressure seal on your brake fluid, which means, first, you're going to have brake fluid all over the place, and second, you're going to have to re-fill your brake fluid reservoir. It also means that the connections you are loosening will be very, very tight, and may require special tools to loosen. Likewise, when you reconnect everything, you're going to have to get the connections very, very tight again, to prevent leaks. But, even with all the special tools and replacement brake fluid you're going to have to buy, it's still cheaper than letting a garage do it for you ($300 doing it yourself, $200-250 if you use "rebuilt" calipers vs $600-700 at the garage), so think about it. If you insist on getting your brake work done by a garage, I want to warn you of one scam in particular. Some places might try to sell you a "lifetime brake job", meaning that, if you let them replace EVERY component of your brake system, for the standard cost, then pay an additional fee on top of that, they will warrantee the whole system for as long as you own the car. That's free diagnostics, free pads, free calipers, free rotors, free brake lines, free brake fluid, even free labor, for as long as you own the car. Sounds like a great deal, even at $1000. But it's a scam! Firestone had a "lifetime alignment" deal, and my wife signed up for it. But every time she brought the car in for service on that '"lifetime alignment" deal, they managed to find something else wrong that was not covered by the deal, but was intimately related to the alignment system so that (and here's where the "state law" comes in again) they couldn't do anything to the alignment unless they fixed this other thing first. If anyone offers you a "lifetime brake job", you can bet they will pull the same stunt every time you bring your car in for service.
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Well, if you wait long enough you'll make a major mess of the braking system and possibly risk braking failure. Nearly all pads have built-in wear indicators that make… a squealing or screeching sound when the pads get too thin. If you don't have the pads changed they can wear down to the mountings, which will scrape nice deep grooves in the rotors. At that point you'll be looking at a full rebuild. That's big bucks. Similarly, even if you change the pads, letting the rotors go too long will cause them to become "dished" as the surface wears away. As the rotors get thinner they'll heat up faster during stops which can cause a number of problems ranging from warping to brake fade. Again, if the rotors warp you'll be looking not only at replacing them but probably also having work done on the calipers, etc. due to uneven running. Most but not all states require inspections at least once a year. Checking brakes should be part of the deal. If it's not, ask the tech guys to do a once-over. Believe me, it's not worth the potential savings to try to cut corners on one of the most important systems in your car.
Generally, you will find most front disc brake pads last about 25,000-30,000 miles if they are serviced right. However there are many factors that can add or subtract from… this. The factors include weight of vehicle, city or highwaty driving, driving habits, if rear brakes are kept in adjustment, If the brakes were installed correctly. I have seen some go 70,000 miles and some go 10,000 miles. On the rear if you have disc brakes it really varies due to the many different styles. Rear drum brakes however typically go about 70,000 miles but again vary with factors. Keep in mind brakes are a system and there is more to them than just the linings. Also don't go to a chain brake shop, as an independent repair shop will do a much better job. Most chains need to do a volume of business to keep corporate happy, not to mention most techs of the chains are paid on commission. Whose wallet do you think they want to keep full?
There is no set mileage. It depends on many factors. How you drive, where you drive, and the speed at which you drive. I have seen them last 100,000 miles and I have seem some… that need replacing at 20,000 miles. There is a warning device that will alert you to when they need replacing. When you hear a high pitched squeal, they need replacing. Another sign is when your master cylinder gets low of brake fluid.
Answer you can do a visual check if you can see the pads and rotors or a hearing test while driving the car start coming to a stop if you hear a highpitched sque…el you need new pads Answer If there is a grinding sound when you step on the brake , you need pads and possibly rotors (depending on the damage) . To check your brakes you need to remove the tire and inspect the pads and rotor . If there is little or no "meat" left on the pad they need changing . If there is pulsing in the peddle when you depress the brakes the rotors may be warped from heat and need to be cut or replaced . Drum brakes require you to remove the tire and drumm to check the shoes .
Warning! Brake jobs are not something to be done without a manual and sufficient technical knowledge. Your life and the lives of others (as well as the life of your automobile…) depend on your doing a top notch job. Please purchase a printed (paper) or a repair manual on CD so you can insure that you do the job correctly. Repair manuals can often be purchased new or used at book stores or on line. You can often get copies of just the pages of a manual you need at a local library for a small fee for every page copied. Call and ask. Different vehicles have different procedures for changing pads and rotors, though they are often similar. Basically, the wheels are pulled after jacking the vehicle up and supporting it safely on stands of some kind. The brake calipers are then loosened and swung out of the way of the rotor, or removed alltogether, depending on the vehicle. With the calipers "open" after disassembly, the old pads are removed and the pistons in the calipers are compressed (pushed back in) to allow for the installation of the new pads. The rotors are removed and then either turned or replaced, with an auto machine shop or the like doing the turning of the rotors. If your rotors are too worn and thin to be turned, they'll tell you. Put the brake assemblies back they way they belong and you're pretty much done. Some folks like to bleed the brakes after doing a brake job. It may or may not be "necessary" to do this, but some experience is needed to make the determination. The description of the process here is abbreviated. It cannot be specific, and it is not designed in any way to allow you to attempt something you are not comfortable with. If you have to ask the question, it may very well be that you lack the requisite skills and knowledge to attempt this yourself. Remember that your life and the lives of others may (will!) depend on your getting your brakes fixed correctly, whether you do it yourself or have professionals do the job. You've been warned. Please be smart about this and make the best decision. Ans 2 - The first responder has many good points - and he's right in not being too specific, as you didn't tell us make, model or year. -All cars are NOT the same ! - If you want correct technical answers, then please give us ALL the facts !
Answer Lug wrench, metric socket set, "C" clamp
It varies greatly. Shop around, and don't forget the independent service facility. They will often sell you the same quality at a better price as they have no franchise fees t…o pay. Shop around, get the estimate in writing.
Worn Rotors If your rotors are worn you should replace those as well. Worn, warped, or glazed rotors will reduce the effectiveness of your brake pads and possible wear …them down faster. As far as the possibility of doing so, sure but it's not recommended. Just to add a comment, depending on the rotor thickness, the rotor surface should be machined to remove the glaze or warpage before installing new pads. Machining of a rotor surface reduces the thickness. If a rotor surface has previously been machined the rotor may need to be replaced.
I don't think there is a exact amount of km's. But when they start to make noise or there is any brake fade, you should have them changed. You rotors only need changing if the…y are scored, even then they can be re-machined @ a fraction of the cost. this does not always work and alot of shops would rather have you spend the xtra cash on new parts. hope that helps. cheers I agree with what has been said, but would add that Auto Zone or the others like them, can get you some very, very sweet prices for pads and rotors. I just replaced the rotors simply cause they were so inexpensive; ~$25 each. Easy, easy brake job. 30 minutes a wheel, fronts.
Rotors need to be changed when they have been resurfaced too many times or becomed too warped to be turned and leave them thick enough for safety. Brake pads should be replace…d every 30-40,000 miles depending on driving habits. When you change the break pads, have the rotors resurfaced at the same time. It only costs about $10.00 each to have them turned at the auto parts shop. Few professionals, if any, will replace pads without turning the rotors.
Certainly not. 2nd answer: If metal-to-metal grinding has been heard prior to the brake shoe change, slap your calipers on those rotors before deciding to have them turned.
I own a diesel (1.9dti) Renault megane 2000 edition. I change the brake pads(front) every 15000 Miles approximately.
When rotors need to be changed usually the pads have worn down. It is always a good idea to change pads when changing rotors.
In Cadillac DTS
Depends how bad the rotors were. And how old the pads are. The pads will wear into the shape of the rotor surface. So new flat rotors will wear old pads much faster until they… wear down to conform to the new surface. Also this could damage the rotor surface. Its cheap insurance just to put new pads in. Its a quick job since the brakes are all apart anyway.
This depends on the vehicle. However, if you notice your steering wheel shakes when you apply your brakes, your rotors may be out of round. They can be resurfaced by a mechani…c, usually only once because they will become too thin. If you have any concerns, ask your favorite mechanic.
They don't wear out that quick I would say near 100000