very possibly it is the glow plug relay, try dissconecting the relay for a day or two and see if the battery still goes flat, another test is to connect a multimeter or 12 volt test lamp to one of the glow plug terminals, if it stays lit all the time it is the relay if it goes out after about 30 seconds of turning the ignition on the relay would seem to be ok very possibly it is the glow plug relay, try dissconecting the relay for a day or two and see if the battery still goes flat, another test is to connect a multimeter or 12 volt test lamp to one of the glow plug terminals, if it stays lit all the time it is the relay if it goes out after about 30 seconds of turning the ignition on the relay would seem to be ok
Near the battery. It will have "DIAGNOSTIC" on the cover.
A lot of the time Chevy used aluminum battery cables in their cars,(in particular my 1980) I was continually having starting and battery problems until I replaced the cables with copper.
Just behind the battery
The diagnostic connector is in the engine compartment on the left hand side between the battery and the fuse box. An adapter is required to read this port with an OBD2/OBDII diagnostic tool.
I would have the alternator tested. If the alternator is over charging the battery then it is just cooking it.
stand by: battery powered circuit is used when AC input fails inline device: battery powered circuit is used continually
With a scan tool, or unhooking the battery.
After repair, you use a scan tool or you unhook battery.
Beside the battery in the engine compartment. Labelled DIAGNOSTIC.
The diagnostic code should go off when the issue is fixed. You can try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. Also, it can be reset through a code reader.
For starting purposes, a 500-650 cca, 12 volt starting battery is sufficient.
my battery is good but having problems with starting