What would you like to do?
If pool has a sand filter then you may need to do some heavy backflushing or possible put new sand in it. Also, be sure pump is working correctly! Answer If the pool is green due to algae, the best product to use would be the Baquacil Performance Algaecide. It is the strongest algaecide. The normal maintence algaecide is not designed to kill algae only prevent. Oxidixer should be added after the algae is killed because the algae will override it. If your pool was regularly paintained with chlorine and not Baquacil then the pool store did you a disservice in switching you over to the Baquacil. You should return to the store to get further instructions after stating what you did or did not do prior to adding the Baquacil, what you did after adding the store product including the history of the pool, bather load, run time of the pump or anything that will give the store a direction in which to take. Obviously something is wrong. It could be your filtration system is not adequate for the pool size or bather load. Then of oucrse there is the neglect factor prior to the pool turning on you. re shock your pool with chlorine follow up by using Flock run pool filter on by pass or if you have a filter that does not use sand or earth just a disposable filter remove the filter, for 12 hours then let shut off and let settle for 6 to 8 hours. You will find a cloud in the center of the pool. keep the vacuum above the cloud do not move fast let the cloud be sucked up do not push around. be sure to run this water outside the pool and not through the filter.
28 people found this useful
Was this answer useful?
Thanks for the feedback!
Best thing to do is drain in, scrub it, and then refil. I have done the same and time-wise...its a waste. Not to mention all the $$$ in chemicals used. Its best to …just pay the water bill. Answer Dump in a 15 pound bucket of pool conditioner (I used EZ Clor) and your pool will stay clear and hardly need any chlorine for the entire season. Answer We add stabilizer 2 times a season to help stop the chlorine from evaporating. Answer That first answer was from someone who is clueless. First, check your alkalinity. If too low (80 or less) than any shock you put in the water will not work and your throwing your money away. Add baking soda (from Sam's $5.50 15 lb) accordingly and then shock it when level of alkalinity is reached. This is a tried and true lesson I learned and saves me a lot of money. If the water is real green to start, use Yellow Out and then follow the above instructions. Answ:: Water is a precious commodity - use it wisely ~ 25,000 to 40,000 gal. of water is a lot to waste. Besides, draining your pool in many cities could bring a huge fine. You have to be careful with what you add to your pool ~ you can not just indiscriminantly just "throw in" chemicals. There are formulas for just about everything that will go into your pool. You should follow then closely. (plaster pools)...... Firstly, if your filter is dirty, most of the chlorine you add to the pool will be used up in the dirty filter. Clean the filter first, adjust the pH, and in the case above you need to go to what is known as "break point chlorination" essentially a shock but more intensive. You need 10.0 ppm chlor. You have to overcome many things in the water to reach a point where you get a chlorine residual high enough to react to the contaminants. Run filter 24/7. At this point do not worry about your conditioner level until you have cleaned your pool and have backwashed the filter again and have really clear water. At that point return to normal cycle run time - see below. You do need to brush 2 to 4 times per day during the clean-up process to let the chlor react with the algae on the walls and floor. Concentrate on the worst green spots first. Formula for conditioner is 5# per 10K water. Goal: 50 to 80 ppm cond. Normal filtration times = 8 to 14 hrs per day. k
To many variables water chemistry effects sanitizer level- adding water dilutes sanitizer level - rain dilutes plus puts enviromental pollution into the pool - yo…ur swim load affects sanitizer level - your water temperature (Warm) and the Sun can burn out the sanitizer level- was the filter running was the pool crystal clear what type of filter do you have? To many variables, take a pool water sample to your nearest dealer and discuss your problem with them so they can properly diagnose your pool
Why would clear pool water turn green after adjusting the pH and alkaline and shocking it according to the pool store's directions?
Answer You need to put an alagecide in your water. If there is metal in the water, the metal will react with the chlorine shock and turn green or brown. Certain ar…eas of the country have naturally high levels of metal in the groundwater, so that you will have to use a chellating agent every time top off your pool.
Answer use algeacide to take out the green
If it is turning green then the it usually means algae is present. An algacide will need to be used. Wait until the chlorine has gone down . If not it will just eat the algaci…de. Green can also appear when heavy chlorine levels are present. The sun's rays will eventually dissipate the chlorine. Also check that the PH is in the right level. This can also cause wierd colors. Add pH increaser or decreaser to get it in the 7.5 range. Also stir the bottom of the pool every once in a while so that the shock disperses throughout the pool. Pools just take patience. Whatever you do wrong can be corrected. Man. I am glad I don't have a pool anymore. (too much work) Hope this helps.
The only reason the pool would turn green would be if the Baquacil is not entirely out of the pool and it reacts with the Chlorine.
Answer There really should not be too much of a problem when switching from CL to Baquacil. You just have to wait until the CL reading is down to zero and then start ad…ding the products. The sun disepates the CL so quickly it should only take a couple days at most.
I have had great success with just liquid chlorine, 12.5% strength, with the additional aid of a product called Yellow Treat or Yellow Out by United Chemical located in …California. But first you MUST CLEAN THE FILTER. You will get nowhere if your filter is dirty. You may have to clean or backwash the filter a number of times throughout the process of removing the algae. If this is a plaster pool (not vinyl) - depending upon the size of the pool - you will need about 4 gal. of liq. chlorine at 12.5% ~ if the chlorine is labeled with a lower strength you will need up to twice as much to do the same job. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE YELLOW OUT or whatever product you end up using. By not doing as directed as per manufacturer's instructions you are just wasting your money on algaecides. Run the pump and filter for 24 hrs minimum until the water is crystal clear. This could take 2 to 3 days or more. Brush the pool walls, floor and other surfaces at least 2 to 3 times per day in order for the chemicals to work properly backwashing the filter as needed. Maintain the chlorine levels at 5 to 10 ppm throughout the cleaning process ~ if necessary ~ add more chlorine. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE PACKAGE OF ALGAECIDE!!!!!!!!! When you are satisfied that all the algae is gone ~ backwash the filter again being sure to add new D E with each backwash ~ assuming that you have a D. E. Filter. Maintain the water clarity thru the summer with adequate and consistent chlorine, pH and Alkalinity levels. The more you use the pool ~ sometimes called bather load ~ the more you need to check those chemical levels ---- minimum check is one to 3 times per week. In addition to chemicals, you will not be able to maintain water clarity with chemicals alone ~ it takes added filtration to do the job properly. In other words, thru the summer or warm weather you will most likely have to run the pump/filter up to as many as 14 - 15 hrs per day. In order to find out what it takes to keep your pool clear - you can start with the 12 - 14 hr. run time - if that is keeping your pool water clear - you may cut back the run time in 1 hr. increments but I would not go less than an 8 to 10 hr run time. If, in fact you have cut back that run time and the water starts to get cloudy then boost the run time UP by 1 hr. at a time until you achieve clarity. That then is the run time for your particular circumstances. k
Try running an algaecide through the system as well as shocking it. Algae wouldn't be the problem, it doesn't happen that quick. You have introduced chlorine too early an…d have corroded the metasl. Next time, filter for 2 days without chlorine, then introduce it slowly.
You opened your pool cleaned all the big debris off the bottom and adjusted Ph - the water was clear - shocked the pool and the water turned green what caused this and what do you need to do?
The absolute fix for algae bloomed pool: DRAIN , ACID WASH and REFILL. More info about acid washing an Algae Bloomed Pool. Acid Washing an In Ground Pool: Also… called a drain & acid clean. An acid wash becomes necessary if the pool has turned into the "black lagoon". This may occur if the winterizing process is not done properly, or if the pool has been stagnant for a period of time so that algae has taken over. If you notice scaly, man-phibian creatures splashing around out back, it's probably time to drain & acid clean. Our general rule of thumb for determining the need for an acid wash is: if you can see the bottom of the pool (the floor) then you can usually bring it back with chemicals, labor and extensive filtering. However , once a pool has turned dark green or even black , algae and mold spores have impregnated themselves into every porous depth of the pool surface and are difficult or impossible to remove by traditional cleaning and chlorinating methods. As a result the pool will continue to spawn new mold, algae and bacteria at an accelerated rate causing the pool to turn green quickly even though you may be vacuuming and chlorinating more. This will play havoc on your filter media such as sand ,cartridges or DE requiring frequent media changes to remove the contaminants. If the floor is not visible, the cost of the chemicals and labor will generally be greater than the acid wash charge, and take much, much longer. Also, extensive algae blooms will permanently stain and adhere to plastered , concrete and gunite pools, making an acid wash desirable. An acid wash is, put simply, purposeful stripping of a tiny layer of plaster or concrete, exposing fresher , undamaged and clean material beneath. Therefore, it is ill-advised to make it an annual custom, which will accelerate the need for replastering. Most plaster coats (sometimes called whitecoat or marcite) are in excess of 1/2", so a few careful acid washes should not hurt. Pools can also be commercial strength bleach washed or high pressure washed if the effected area isn't that bad. Costs to acid wash and emptied pool range between 900.00 and 1200.00 in Maryland , Virginia and DC. If your pool is filled with contaminated water and debris, the cost to drain and acid wash may range 1600.00 to 2800.00 depending on the degree of contamination and the amount of non-drainable debris that must be removed and disposed of by manual labor. You may also decide on an acid wash not because of swamp conditions, mold , algae and bacteria but just to bring out a brighter, whiter finish. Mineral stains and/or deposits, chlorine stains, even dirt stains...an acid wash is always a dramatic aesthetic improvement. If your pool has had years of algae blooms, and if your pool seems to grow algae overnight or just bloom very easily....changing the water and acid washing the surfaces algae sticks to can give you an algae free summer and save you a bundle in lost pool time , labor , filter media and chemicals. Acid is a dangerous substance. Pool company personnel are specially trained in its application and wear protective clothing and breathing apparatus during the acid wash. To protect our environment, the acid/water waste should be neutralized with soda ash prior to its being pumped to a safe location. In many states , permits may be required. In Maryland or Virginia you may want to contact AAA Home Services - Maryland Pool and Spa Repair to evaluate and determine if Acid Washing is necessary for your pool @ 877-752-7714
How much is a lot? We had put about 30 pounds of shock and were getting nowhere. We added algaecide with copper (HAS to have the copper). Let that run for several hours …then added 5 pounds of shock. We let that run for several hours, added another five pounds of shock. By that time we were finally getting a chlorine reading. The next morning we added another five pounds of shock and finally got a "white" pool. Then we had to put in flock out to drop the stuff to the bottom. After all that we had to vacuum to waste to get rid of that much stuff. Pretty tough and expensive task. We are adding a salt chlorinator next weekend.
New pool- filled with clear water looked great then shocked it and it turned green within 15 minutes-was filled and shocked on the same day?
sounds like well water - it's the shock mixing with metals in the water. it'll go away as the chemicals are brought to normal. pool places can also help.
Baquacil can be difficult to remove from the water but its not impossible. First have your baquacil sanitizer levels tested. If they are above 30g/ml or 30ppm you can either 1…. Allow the baquacil sanitizer level to naturally drop OR partially drain to dilute the sanitizer. Next you will need to lower your pH to 6.8-7.0. You will then need to add Non-Chlorine shock (Potassium Monopersulfate) at a rate of 4lbs / 10,000 gals of water. Run filter continuously for 48 hours. Test the baquacil sanitizer level. You are aiming for a level of 10ppm or below. If you have not reached that yet you must repeat the previous process with another 4lbs of Non-Chlorine shock and running your filter another 48 hours. Once you have reached your 10ppm or lower goal, you can start with the conversion process. Adjust your pH back to 7.2 - 7.6. Start shocking with liquid chlorine (Sodium Hypochlorite) (preferably in the evening). The amount to be added will vary depending on concentration. Check the directions on the box for manufacturers recommendations. Because of a likely high chlorine demand, shocking may be required for 7-10 days. Also watch for a precipitate to form. Brush the pool regularly and run filter continuously to remove. Don't allow the precipitate to settle as it may stain the pool. Once a free available chlorine residual has been formed balance the water and begin a routine chlorination schedule.
Why did my pool turned green after I shocked it the water seems clear when you put it in a cup and it isn't cloudy?
Because electricity turnes water green.
depends on the amount of chlorine and algicide you use and the weather conditions, temparature, size, HOW green etc. i myself waited about one week.