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What do you do if your pool turned dark green and the pool place had you dump 3 gallons of baquacil shock and 1 quart of algacide in it but 3 days later and after lot of vaccuuming it did not clear?
If pool has a sand filter then you may need to do some heavy backflushing or possible put new sand in it. Also, be sure pump is working correctly! Answer If the pool is green due to algae, the best product to use would be the Baquacil Performance Algaecide. It is the strongest algaecide. The normal maintence algaecide is not designed to kill algae only prevent. Oxidixer should be added after the algae is killed because the algae will override it. If your pool was regularly paintained with chlorine and not Baquacil then the pool store did you a disservice in switching you over to the Baquacil. You should return to the store to get further instructions after stating what you did or did not do prior to adding the Baquacil, what you did after adding the store product including the history of the pool, bather load, run time of the pump or anything that will give the store a direction in which to take. Obviously something is wrong. It could be your filtration system is not adequate for the pool size or bather load. Then of oucrse there is the neglect factor prior to the pool turning on you. re shock your pool with chlorine follow up by using Flock run pool filter on by pass or if you have a filter that does not use sand or earth just a disposable filter remove the filter, for 12 hours then let shut off and let settle for 6 to 8 hours. You will find a cloud in the center of the pool. keep the vacuum above the cloud do not move fast let the cloud be sucked up do not push around. be sure to run this water outside the pool and not through the filter.
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Why would clear pool water turn green after adjusting the pH and alkaline and shocking it according to the pool store's directions?
You need to put an algicide in your water. If there is metal in thewater, the metal will react with the chlorine shock and turn greenor brown. Certain areas of the country hav…e naturally high levelsof metal in the groundwater, so that you will have to use achelating agent every time top off your pool.
A pool needs to be shocked regularly (once a week or so) sometimes if there is a lot of rain or if it gets hot for a extended period of time it needs more the sun bakes out th…e chlorine and the rain adds water
Baquacil can be difficult to remove from the water but its not impossible. First have your baquacil sanitizer levels tested. If they are above 30g/ml or 30ppm you can either 1…. Allow the baquacil sanitizer level to naturally drop OR partially drain to dilute the sanitizer. Next you will need to lower your pH to 6.8-7.0. You will then need to add Non-Chlorine shock (Potassium Monopersulfate) at a rate of 4lbs / 10,000 gals of water. Run filter continuously for 48 hours. Test the baquacil sanitizer level. You are aiming for a level of 10ppm or below. If you have not reached that yet you must repeat the previous process with another 4lbs of Non-Chlorine shock and running your filter another 48 hours. Once you have reached your 10ppm or lower goal, you can start with the conversion process. Adjust your pH back to 7.2 - 7.6. Start shocking with liquid chlorine (Sodium Hypochlorite) (preferably in the evening). The amount to be added will vary depending on concentration. Check the directions on the box for manufacturers recommendations. Because of a likely high chlorine demand, shocking may be required for 7-10 days. Also watch for a precipitate to form. Brush the pool regularly and run filter continuously to remove. Don't allow the precipitate to settle as it may stain the pool. Once a free available chlorine residual has been formed balance the water and begin a routine chlorination schedule.
Trace amounts of copper in your water. Use a metal remover from your pool store.
Best thing to do is drain in, scrub it, and then refil. I have done the same and time-wise...its a waste. Not to mention all the $$$ in chemicals used. Its best to …just pay the water bill. Answer Dump in a 15 pound bucket of pool conditioner (I used EZ Clor) and your pool will stay clear and hardly need any chlorine for the entire season. Answer We add stabilizer 2 times a season to help stop the chlorine from evaporating. Answer That first answer was from someone who is clueless. First, check your alkalinity. If too low (80 or less) than any shock you put in the water will not work and your throwing your money away. Add baking soda (from Sam's $5.50 15 lb) accordingly and then shock it when level of alkalinity is reached. This is a tried and true lesson I learned and saves me a lot of money. If the water is real green to start, use Yellow Out and then follow the above instructions. Answ:: Water is a precious commodity - use it wisely ~ 25,000 to 40,000 gal. of water is a lot to waste. Besides, draining your pool in many cities could bring a huge fine. You have to be careful with what you add to your pool ~ you can not just indiscriminantly just "throw in" chemicals. There are formulas for just about everything that will go into your pool. You should follow then closely. (plaster pools)...... Firstly, if your filter is dirty, most of the chlorine you add to the pool will be used up in the dirty filter. Clean the filter first, adjust the pH, and in the case above you need to go to what is known as "break point chlorination" essentially a shock but more intensive. You need 10.0 ppm chlor. You have to overcome many things in the water to reach a point where you get a chlorine residual high enough to react to the contaminants. Run filter 24/7. At this point do not worry about your conditioner level until you have cleaned your pool and have backwashed the filter again and have really clear water. At that point return to normal cycle run time - see below. You do need to brush 2 to 4 times per day during the clean-up process to let the chlor react with the algae on the walls and floor. Concentrate on the worst green spots first. Formula for conditioner is 5# per 10K water. Goal: 50 to 80 ppm cond. Normal filtration times = 8 to 14 hrs per day. k
Shock the pool and ad a good quality algaecide scrub the walls and floor with a pool broom then vacuum the sludge on the bottom to waste the next day or so.
If it is turning green then the it usually means algae is present. An algacide will need to be used. Wait until the chlorine has gone down . If not it will just eat the algaci…de. Green can also appear when heavy chlorine levels are present. The sun's rays will eventually dissipate the chlorine. Also check that the PH is in the right level. This can also cause wierd colors. Add pH increaser or decreaser to get it in the 7.5 range. Also stir the bottom of the pool every once in a while so that the shock disperses throughout the pool. Pools just take patience. Whatever you do wrong can be corrected. Man. I am glad I don't have a pool anymore. (too much work) Hope this helps.
If your pool water turns green after it is shocked with chlorine, it is too basic. Algae can thrive there now and it is green. Add pool acid (it may require several gallons) a…nd check the pH of the water frequently, adding more, if needed. If it gets too acidic, you can add some baking soda (which is basic) until you reach the desired pH - slightly below neutral. Neutral is pH7.0 answer : if you used well water you have metals in your pool take a test water sample to your pool dealer and have it checked for metals and he will advise what to do next
If your pool water is clear and there is no algae on the bottom I would suggest testing the pool water for metals. Sometimes the prescence of copper will give your pool a gree…nish aqua color. Another tell tale sign is if you shock your pool and it instantly turns a shade of lime green usually signals a metal issue. Copper can come from your heater (heat exchanger) so it would behoove you to make sure you keep your pool balanced especially PH and Alkaline levels as very low levels will eat copper heat exchanges causes them to shed the metal into the pool and leak. Other metals give off colors as well, such as iron-brownish red, manganese-pink, red, black or brownish black and cobalt red, blue, gray or black. Well Water, and a load of leaves that decayed all winter in the bottom of the pool are other causes of metals. Hope this helps. www.prospectpoolsllc.com/blog or www.prospectpoolsllc.com Or, if the water is clear and there is no algae on the bottom, an algae bloom is in the beginning stages. If you don't treat it soon, it will be considerably darker green the next day. Shock your pool with perhaps a heavier dosage than normal. Leave the pump on 24/7 until blue color has returned. Then backwash the filter, or if cartridge filter, remove the cartridges and clean thoroughly. For any pool-related questions, feel free to contact me at anjeli-klean.com
Chlorine is not compatible with Baquacil. Baquacil is hydrogen peroxide and will cause a reaction. Most times the water turns green and throws off all of the other readi…ngs. If CL is accidentally added the Baquacil product to remove it is called Baquacil Chlorine Neutralizer.
Foam in a pool that uses Baquacil can have a leak in return hose. It can also be the result of putting too much product in the pool. You should check the chemical levels i…n the pool.
The salt system is going to create sodium hypochlorite (bleach) from sodium chloride (salt) this system works great! It will make care of the pool very simple. Baquacil o…r biguinide the generic name is very expensive to use and you have to follow the directions exactly and sometimes exceed the recommendations in order to maintain the pool. If you develop a problem with this type of sanitizer it can take longer than a chlorine pool to recover and it will add big bucks to the cost of using this system. Salt systems a large initial capital outlay but will be cheaper and easier in the long run. The Guru of Pools at Discount Pool Warehouse.com
depends on the amount of chlorine and algicide you use and the weather conditions, temparature, size, HOW green etc. i myself waited about one week.