Electricity takes the path of least resistance - That is to say most of the electricity takes the path of least resistance.
In this case the short circuit will have an incredibly low resistance, and the vast majority of the electricity will bypass your appliance, causing no damage (to the appliance) at all. However where the short circuit occurs on the cable one will find burning marks and heat damage, perhaps even part of the metal has been vaporised leaving a hole or melting mark on the metal of the wire itself.
There is also a very good chance the fuse will break inside the plug top and that circuit breakers* will trip in your board.
*Breakers because the fault current may be large enough in a short circuit to trip your main circuit breaker and not just the breaker for the circuit the appliance is plugged into, this however is rare.
yes it is the main breaker
Yes, the amp rating is a measurement of the highest amp load it should carry. So a 15 amp appliance will work on a 20 amp socket but you wouldn't want to use a 20 amp appliance on a 15 amp socket.
An appliance cable or "flex" outlet is a type of electrical outlet which is NOT a "socket outlet" to take plugs for appliances so that they can be plugged and un-plugged. An appliance cable or "flex" outlet has terminals inside it. The terminals allow the wires in an appliance cable or "flex" to be connected to the household wiring in a building. The household wiring comes from the building's main electrical power panel, which carries the main circuit breakers. The circuit breakers are fitted to protect the household wiring from catching on fire if any circuit is overloaded. Such appliance cable or "flex" outlets also have strain-relief clips. A strain-relief clip helps to prevent the cable from being yanked out of the outlet if the appliance gets moved away from the wall where the outlet is installed. Such outlets, with terminals inside and strain-relief clips, are used for fixed appliances, such as ranges or dryers, which should never have to be un-plugged during normal use of the appliance by the user.
If the gap is small then you may get 'arcing'. This is where the electricity will jump from one point to another (cable end to cable end). This could cause a fire. If the gap is too large for the electricity to jump then in effect there will be no-circuit.
Yes, it will be protected by a circuit breaker or fuse. The normal rating of the circuit breaker or fuse is 25% more than the maximum current expected, or the maximum current allowed for the cable size, whichever is lower.
The size of the wire is set by the maximum current it has to carry. The voltage sets the size of the insulation. In the UK a 230 v (nominal) ring-circuit supplying a set of power sockets is rated at 30 amps and uses a ring of 2.5 sq-mm cable.
In an electrical circuit, you'll have a charged circuit (the positive), and a ground circuit... a bad ground cable is a cable which is somehow not effectively completing the ground.. could be poor conductive material, a break or fray in the cable, an improper grounding point..
If the voltage is supplying any current through the cable, i.e. if there is any 'load' at the end, then the voltage will drop through the cable.
No.
Current or AMPS are what the appliance draws or load of the appliance. So, if you have a say 10,000 amps going thru a cable rated for say 1,000 amps , guess what ,the cable over heats and either will melt or at least catch fire.
If you are talking about splicing a 40 amp cook top into an existing 3C #10 30 amp circuit then the answer is no. An appliance with that load ampacity needs to have its own dedicated circuit. This would consist of 3C #8 wire cable fed from a two pole 40 amp breaker located in the distribution panel.
If you are referring to the cable from oven to plug, this can be a sign of an electrical problem . Get an electrician or appliance tech to check it and the wall socket it plugs into.