curcuit breakers have a set limit to the amount of amps they can allow before popping. Many household breakers are either 15 amp, or 30 amp. A hairdryer is a high draw item, 9 -13 amps. If the plug you are using is on a 15 amp breaker, and that feed wire is doing more than one function, adding the hairdryer could add enough draw to overload the curcuit.
Your washing machine should be on its own dedicated circuit. When it runs it draws current. If the current exceeds the breaker rating the breaker will trip. You didn't say anything about the circumstances so it is hard to pin down the cause. Some possibilities are:
1. A bad breaker.
2. There is some obstruction or binding on what the motor is trying to turn and it stays in an over-current start up mode trying to overcome the mechanical loading.
3. There is a short circuit in the windings in motor causing it to draw too much current.
4.There is a short circuit in your wiring to the washing machine.
If breaker blows immediately when you turn on washer the problem is likely 1, 3 or 4.
If it happens somewhere in the cycle it is likely 2.
Ceramic is a material used in hair dryers, Ionic is the Technology created by the Ceramic. A hair dryer can be both. If your hair dryer is Ceramic, it is Ionic. When Ceramic is heated it generates negative ions that smooth the positive ions in your hair allowing hair to lay flat and smooth.
Ionic hair dryers employ negatively charged ions that break down wet water into molecules and reduce them to a fraction of their size. The benefits of using an ionic hair dryer include that it works much better and it dries hair much faster.
My dryer doesn't smell
Dryer sheets were invented in the '60's.
Synthetic materials should not be loaded in the dryer... such as plastics and rubber material.
Don't understand this question. If the breaker is on, then the dryer would function normally, if the breaker your are referring to is the one for the dryer. If the breaker is off then no function. A dryer runs on 220.
The only reason the dryer breaker will trip is it senses an overload or a short circuit on the circuit. To test this unplug the dryer and see if the breaker will stay latched. If it does then the wiring to the receptacle is not at fault. If you want to delve further into the problem, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the inspection panel at the back of the dryer and check the connections. Sometimes the screw terminals become loose and corroded and cause the dryer to draw more current. To compensate for the higher resistance at the faulty terminals the dryer will try to draw more current that the breaker will allow. If everything looks good after trying both of these things it is time for a repairman to come in and look at the dryer itself, as the fault is probably an internal problem within the dryer body.
Could be but you could also have a weak breaker that will no longer hold the load of your dryer. That is if your talking about your dryer breaker tripping. If your "main breaker" is tripping you have a different problem. Call an electrician in that case. A plugged up dryer shouldn't be tripping your main
If the circuit breaker to a dryer, or to any load, keeps getting hot and trips the breaker, then either the load is pulling too much current or there is a loose connection in the breaker or breaker panel. Either condition must be fixed to reduce the risk of fire.
Typical residential electric dryers are on 30 amp circuits, which means 10 gage copper wire. The circuit breaker should match the dryer cord rating, generally 30 amps.
If you are referring to a cloths dryer, the answer depends on the requirements of the dryer. Most dryers require AWG#10 wire with a 30 amp fuse. If the wiring is AWG#12 then use a 20 amp breaker but never use it on AWG#10 which requires a 30 amp breaker. If you are referring to a hair dryer then yes a 20 amp breaker is fine.
If the GFI that is tripping is a different circuit, there is electrical leakage between the circuit the GFI is controlling, and the dryer circuit. It is possible that there is some cross wiring in the electrical box. I would strongly recommend getting a licensed electrician to look at it, preferably before you have a fire. If the GFI is the same circuit as the one where the dryer is plugged in, you might want to have the dryer checked for leakage to ground. You should also check the dryer circuit's rating against the rating of the breaker in its circuit. A dryer typically takes 30A on usually a single two-gang breaker; if you have a larger dryer that pulls, say, 45A, a 30A breaker will always pop. It sounds to me like a bad electrician has, instead of buying a proper two-gang 30-A breaker, installed your dryer across two circuits, one being the garage GFI circuit; the dryer, because it pulls 220V, pulls an unbalanced load across the GFI and triggers it, and the other circuit breaker is triggered because it loses the extra power provided through the GFI. I cannot emphasize this enough: get this checked out and fixed. Now. Before you get a house fire.
It should be in the main circuit panel. If the dryer was added at some point there may be a separate box just for the dryer either beside the main panel or at the dryer plug. It is not in the dryer itself.
Yeah unless the dryer in their unit has a meter connected to it.
I suspect you mean GFIC breaker. The dryer will not cause the breaker to fail.
The short answer is no. First off I assume you mean "can you have a dryer and an electric range on the same circuit?" (If they were actually wired in series, then you couldn't use your range if the dryer was off) In theory you could have them on the same circuit you just need to make sure that the wiring and the circuit they are on can handle the number of amps the two of them could draw together. If your breaker isn't big enough, it kill the power to the range while you are cooking dinner. If the wiring can't handle the load, then there is a fire risk. A dryer is usually on a 30amp circuit and a range is usually on a 50amp circuit, so to have them together would require an 80amp circuit, which will be difficult to find a breaker and wiring for.
rusk ionic