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Watts are a unit of power, so you know how much power the unit will draw when it is "on." More details on that later. First, you are billed for electricity in kilowatt-hours (KWH). (Look at your latest bill to see how much you are charged per KWH. It probably varies: so much for the first so many KWH, then a different rate for each KWH over the first threshold.) Next, a kilowatt-hour is 1,000 watts times one hour. To run the 1500 watt heater for eight hours (assuming full on, but more details on that later) would consume 1,500 times 8 divided by 1,000 = 12 KWH. Compare that to your electric bill to estimate how much it would cost. Finally, if the heater has a thermostat, it will not be "on" all the time. When the temperature around the unit rises above its thermostat setting, the heating elements will turn off, so it will no longer consume its rated power. While in this mode, main switch on but heating elements turned off by the thermostat, it wil draw some power, but only on the order of miliwatts (thousandths of a watt). It is not possible to predict its "duty cycle," how much time it will be "on" as a fraction of whole time, without either a) some impossibly complicated engineering formula and equally impossible to get figures regarding the size of the space it is heating, how drafty it is, how well insulated it is, and the ambient temperature outside the space; or b) try it out and time how long it is on and how long it is off over the course of a couple of hours. Anyway, the power rating in watts times the length of time you expect to turn it on per month divided by 1000 will give you a maximum figure for how many KWH it could possibly use. Actual consumption will be somewhat less, but impossible to predict.
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15 amps x 110 volts = 1650 watts 20 amps x 110 volts = 2200 watts 30 amps x 110 volts = 3300 watts 15 amps x 120 volts = 1800 watts 20 amps x 120 volts = 2400 watts …30 amps x 120 volts = 3600 watts You can only run a single 1500 watt heater on either 15 or 20 amp line regardless of if it is 120 or 110 volts. you may run two 1500 watt heaters on a 30 amp 110 or 120 volt line though Just use another circuit (not just another outlet as many outlets are common to a single circuit) one circuit for each 1500 watt heater. warning, do NOT use anything that uses the same amount of watts that your circuit can handle, for example, if you have a 120 volt outlet on a 15 amp circuit the max for that outlet is 1800, thus you need to stay WELL UNDER that amount. If you use exactly 1800 watts and the breaker doesn't trip then the resistance of the wires and connections can heat up causing a fire. The further from the breaker box = more resistance volts times amps = watts watts divided by volts = amps watts divided by amps = volts its a simple math equation. You can check your breaker box for the amps for each circuit, most recent homes are 120 volts (note that double breakers are double the current, if your household voltage is 120 then double breakers are 240 volts) a rule of thumb... appliances require a set amount of volts, you must make sure you plug it into the right voltage, the appliance itself will take care of how many amps it draws, thus how many watts it uses. Most appliances will list the voltage required and the amps that it draws somewhere near the power cord.
An electric heater is an electric appliance that convert electrical energy in to heat. Working principle of an electric heater as per "Joule heating theory" When electric cu…rrent passes through a resistor that electric energy convert to heat (best and simple example is a spring type heating element). When Voltage applied both end of a wire/spring type Resistance wire, voltage flow and this voltage help that wire to heat up and convert in to heat. A Resistance wire quality, length & thickness depend how many time heat spread and resist with that heat. K.watt/ Watt = Applied voltage x Ampere. Many quality and types of electric heating elements are there depend upon purpose of use. Few best heating elements known as Kanthal wire, Nicrome wire, Ureka wire, Super Kanthal, Silicon Carbide heating elements etc.
To have the real answer you must first understand Capacitance, Resistance, and inductance. And since you probably don't want a physics lession. "Simply Put" the higher t…he frequency " f " the reduction of current " I ". in the 50's we ran off a 25Hz system, we then realized that it was much more efficient to run everything at 60hz, thus why we run 60hz. IF you want more info look up a RLC cct and you will understand more.
There is no such thing as an 'electrical watt' and a 'thermal watt'. The watt is simply the SI unit for power, which is the rate of doing work or the rate of heat transfer.
Watts and Frequency (Hz) are two different measurements. Wattage is the product of amps times volts. Frequency (Hz) is a measurement used with alternating current. Alternating… current changes it's direction (cycles) so many times per second. 60 Hz is 60 cycles per second.
To determine the number of watts of electric energy consumed by electric iron, we need to multiply the volts and the ampere used by that particular electric iron, so the… product of those two is the watts used by the electric iron.
The watts depend on the size of the heating elements and how many elements are being used at the time in question. The owners manual will be able to tell you the watts for the… stove top burners. The other heating elements you need to find out about are in the oven/broiler. Adding them all up will give you the total watts. The instruction manual will tell you what size electric service you need for the range. Be aware that this will be more than the range will ever use, and will contain a safety factor as well. Electric range cords are generally 220V, 50 amps. That means it is expected to use less than 11,000 watts.
To figure that out you need to know the Amperage that it draws and what the voltage of the circuit is that you're using. Once you know that you can figure out how many watts i…t uses by doing simple math. Voltage x Amperage = Watts
1500 watts... Average electric bill is $0.98/ killowatt hour (1000 watts an hour) So it wil cost around $1.50- $2.00/ Hour to operate
The energy used each hour is 60 watt-hours.
The power in watts is equal to the volts times the amps so that is 120 x 7.5.
You are billed based on kilowatt-hours. Your light is 1 KW. If you had on continually for the month that would be about 30 days x 24 hrs = 270 KWh. An average cost per KWh is …about 12 cents so your cost would be about $86.40 for continuous use per month.
Would you use less electrical energy burning a 60 watt light bulb for 900 seconds or a 100 watt light bulb for 500 seconds?
1 watt = 1 Joule/sec 60 watts x 900 sec = 54 000 Joule 100 watts x 500 sec = 50 000 Joule So you use less electrical energy using 100 watt light bulb for 500 seconds.
120 Volts multiplied by 1.4 Amps equals 168 Watts. This may be steady state current though so allow more for startup. Also the fridge probably does not have the pump running a…ll of the time so figure the 'on' time compared to the 'off' time for a true average.
It could be 100 kW for an average stadium.