In Ford Probe
1990 Ford Probe ldash removal?
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Remove the steering wheel.
- Remove the instrument cluster.
- Remove the lower dash trim.
- Remove the driver's side sound deadening panel.
- Remove the instrument panel shake brace.
- Remove the lower dash ducts.
- Remove the instrument cluster carrier.
- Remove the lower steering column bracket retaining screws and lower column.
- Remove the shift indicator and shift indicator bezel.
- Remove the ashtray.
- Remove the shift handle.
- Remove the floor console.
14. Remove the radio and, if equipped, the compact disc player.
If equipped, remove the trip computer display as follows:
- Remove the display cover bezel.
- Remove the 2 display housing attaching screws and pull the housing straight out of the dash. It may be necessary to gently pry the display free from the instrument panel.
- Disconnect the electrical connector and remove the display.
If not equipped with a trip computer, remove the center mounting nut access cover.
Remove the passenger side lower instrument panel panel.
Remove the glove box.
Remove the left and right console kick panels.
Remove the heater control bezel. Disconnect and remove the heater control.
Slide the accessory console back far enough to access the mounting bolts at the floor. Remove the bolts.
Remove the left and right dash side covers.
Remove the bolts from the left and right sides of the dash.
Remove the instrument panel center mounting nut.
Remove the hood release cable handle.
Remove the left and right A to B-pillar trim.
The remaining removal Steps require the help of an second person
Lift the instrument panel and tilt it toward the rear of the vehicle.
Disconnect all remaining electrical connectors, including the dash harness, the wire connector at the left-hand main harness, and the shift lock wiring connector.
Remove the instrument panel from the vehicle.
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Hi. i have an 89 lx with a digital dash. well that is not too hard at all! first take off the stering wheel, 2 screws on the back and so on. it will take a bit of a good pull …to get the wheel off. its really hard! then there is 3 screws above the speedometer, remove them. then there is about 4 screws below the ignition accross the bottom.then the whole dash around your instroment panel comes out. (may have to adjust the steering tilt to get it off) and then you can see the whole ignition. that is all that i know about getting her out. well any other Q's email: firstname.lastname@example.org
you have to take off the axel, and replace it. You unhook the tie rod end take off the breaks and the rotor. when you get the axel off take it to any tire or automotive repair… shop and ask them to take off the nut on the end oof the axel. ( they will ussually do this free of charge) when they take the nut off get them to take the new one and put the nut on it cause it needs to be extra tight. then reasemble the car like you took it apart the entire lower control arm must be replaced.A ball joint is offered by some manufacturers but don't try it.I have replaced them and you do not need to remove the axle or brakes or the spindle assembly.It is not extreamly hard to do.
I think it's near the front driver side wheel well ..and that's about all I know If I find out more I'll post it.. Answer I have a 90' GL and the horn is on the passenger s…ide in front of the tire under the bumber skirt. Answer I have a 1990 Probe LX, and I had to replace the horn. You'll need to take off the Driver's Side Front Wheel. Remove the shielding to the front of the wheel, and it should be right there. Sometimes it has a weird mounting bracket, and if it's a wiring problem, you're gonna have issues, but if you're just replacing the horn, it shouldn't be a problem. OEM horns are a signel-wire connection, so make sure your horn has that option.
Answer . It does not have a governor. Speed is computer controlled.. Answer . you can, however, reprogram your computer to allow for a higher max speed. However, its a …Ford Probe, not a true racing car. Buy a Mustang GT or a Trans-Am, or a Camaro. Or go foreign and get a Prelude or something.. All 1989-1992 2.2L 4-cylinder engines non-turbo first generation Probes have a speed limiter at 113mph. When the speed reaches 113mph, the ECU will shut off the fuel pump, forcing the vehicle to slow down. When the speed drops to 70mph, the ECU will reengage the fuel pump and engine control will return to normal. The circuit that controls the speed limiter is externally located from the ECU, allowing the possibility of altering the function. This will only work on 4-cylinder non-turbo models Procedure speed limiter control Gain access to either the instrument panel wiring harness under the dash board at the rear of instrument cluster, or the Electrical Control Assembly. There is a Yellow/White wire that runs between the instrument cluster and the ECU. Cut this wire and secure the ends. Reassemble interior. Tools Required: Wire cutter.... REMEMBER The 113mph limiter is there for a reason. It is extremely dangerous to drive at high speeds. Do not attempt to test the function of the limiter on public roads where you can kill yourself or others. Many tires are not designed to handle speeds this high and can explode under the extreme temperatures. Remember, I am not condoning high speed or wreckless driving . And for the answer before mine, just for the record, the ford probe was originally designed to replace the mustang. Also the probe GT may not have the 5.0, but can definitely keep up. I am a proud owner and wouldn't trade it for anything.
Answer . 1.\nDisconnect the negative battery cable. Raise and safely support the vehicle.\n2.\n. \nRemove the timing belt. Remove the crankshaft damper retaining bolt, th…e damper and the timing belt sprocket. Remove the sprocket key from the crankshaft.\n3.\n. \nUsing a small prybar, pry the oil seal from the engine block; be careful not to score the crankshaft or the seal seat. Clean the seal bore.\n. \nTo install:\n. \n4.\n. \nUsing an oil seal installation tool or equivalent, lubricate the seal lip with clean engine oil and drive the new seal into the engine until it seats.\n. \n5. The rest of the installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten all bolts to the proper specification.
Answer . you don't. it's hydraulic and, automatically adjusted hydraulically.
The nosiey engine in ford 1990 how can we overcome it?
a man shift is a manuel shift button it drops the car down a gear for passing and such
most people run into the problem a getting a belt but then think that the belt is too big for the pulley system. You need to look at it and see where it needs to go. if a pull…ey has groves on it then the grooved Sid of the belt lays in the grooves. There are also smooth pulleys. These are where you adjust the tension of the belt and so you can get the belt on. there should be 2 smooth one on the probe but only one moves and that should be the top one. You will need a rachet with I believe a 3/4" head to put in to the square hole in the metal arm that connects to the tension pulley. perferably a tourqe rachet. You'll need to find the proper tension somewhere else though. But follow the tension pulley arm up to where it is mounted to the engine. There will be a single bolt that you'll need to loosen, do not take it out just loosen it, then you will be able to move the tension pulley enough to fit the belt on. After the belt is on make sure that you have ran it properly. To do this just follow the belt around and make sure that there is no contact of any surface to the belt besides the pulleys. after that is done take the 3/4" rachet and place it into the arm to tighten the tension pulley. Some people might need an extra person for this especially if this is a first for you. One to adjust the tension and the other to tighten the nut on the mounting bracket.
check that the coolant fan is turning check coolant flood check if thermostat is stuck chec water pump gotta be one of the 4
first of all close the sunroof fully, then pull down the trim cover (held on by pop type clips). Then you will see 4 10mm nuts, 1 in each corner. Remove them and then carefull…y lift up the sunroof to remove.
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In Ford Probe
Code 55= "No input signal from vehicle speed pulse generator"
In Ford Probe
in the 3.0l models it is located right on top of the transmission. It makes a difference in sensors if you have the analog or digital cluster on the dash.
In Car Batteries
2.2 L - 4 cylinder ( Motorcraft BXT56 ). 3.0 L - V6 ( Motorcraft BXL58R / Motorcraft BXT58R - " top of the line " )
Disconnect the negative battery cable. . Raise and safely support the vehicle. . Remove the right-hand halfshaft (axle) . From the rear of the alternator, depress the lock …tabs on the wiring terminals and pull the terminals straight off. Mark the location of the wires prior to removal so they can be reinstalled in their original positions. . Loosen the alternator adjustment and through bolts to allow the alternator to pivot. Remove the alternator drive belt. . Remove the alternator adjustment bracket, lock bolt and through bolt. . Hold the alternator to prevent it from falling and remove it through the space left from the removed halfshaft. To install: . Position the alternator and loosely install the mounting and adjustment bolts. . Install the drive belt and adjust the tension Tighten the through bolt to 27-38 ft. lbs. (37-52 Nm) and the adjusting bolt to 14-19 ft. lbs. (19-25 Nm). . Connect the wiring terminals at the rear of the alternator. . Install the right-hand halfshaft. . Lower the vehicle. Connect the negative battery cable.
In Ford Probe
ok i have a 1994 ford probe 2.0, it should be the same, the alternator is behide the engine, i did it with just normal tools and didnt have to remove the cross member or half …shaft, what i did is 1 remove negative terminal 2 jack the car up as far as you can 3 i unloosend the bolt that moves the alternator back and forth a little then went under and loosend the mounting bolt as much as i could 4 then i went back to the bolt that moves the alternator back and forth and took it out completely (pain in the butt bc u can only move the wrench 1/2 a turn a time, use extensions if u have) 5 remove the mounting bolts completely 6 then with the bolts out i used a hammer to remove it from the mount under neath 7 now with it free i took off the wires (thee is a nut holding the negative on pop the black cap with a flat head and remove it. 8 then i removed the mounting bracket (3 bolts) 9 then here comes the fun, i took the old alternator out by the half shaft i used a hammer and cow bar, and twist it so the pulley is facing the other pulleys (or just how eve u can) 10 to get the new one in all i did was play with it to get it over the half shaft and a little muscle to push it up in and got it. 11 then just reinstall everything. there is 2 other ways to do it and one is remove the half shaft and that would make life simple also u can remove the crossmember and pull it out back and down by the exost pipe it took me 2 days to figure this out so i the bolts are all 1/2 or 7/16