Watch this video on how to replace a u-joint to see if it helps. http://www.myjeepwrangler.com/ Fix-it > u-joint
You have to pull that whole assembly apart to get to the bearings. The wheel comes off, then the brake rotor, then you have the hub assembly. The bearings are inside of that.
First you take the pulley and the blade off. You unbolt the plates holding the bearing in place. Take it apart. Take the bearings off and put new ones on and put back together again.
Yes the rear bearings are replaceable . Bearings and the races are very easy to replace or repack , It may have a castle nut with a cotter pin or a crush nut , if it has a crush nut you may want to order a new one before you take it apart .
Replace the pump, your bearings are shot and it needs to be replaced before the pump flies apart sending your fan through the radiator.
I'm in the process of doing it now. The bearing comes out and then it has to be pressed apart. The unit bearings I've ordered are 1/4" offset inward (there is a different flange then the ones you can order as a unit). Inside is two tapered roller bearings and two seals. Press them apart. Lubricate the new ones, and install them with the seals back into the housing. Press the flange back into the inner bearing races last. Install the assembled unit back into the Jeep. That may or may not be what you were looking for.
yes, brass knuckle trench knife made by L&FC (I think) in the US. Knuckle knife dated 1918. Although knuckle portion was removable, it generally was not taken apart. It was carried in a scabbard made for the knife. It is a collectable item...............
Front or back. Pull it apart and check.
Almost. I've seen a horribly cheap toy skateboard once that didn't have bearings, only a plastic center to the wheel. But apart from that, any time you buy a complete skateboard it'll come with bearings.
You have to split the engine cases and remove the crankshaft. Then remove the crankshaft bearings. Use a seal driver or large socket and knock out the seals. Lube new seals and drive them in. Replace all the seals in motor, new crank bearings, and mine as well throw in a new piston and rings since its all apart anyway.
For the front wheels: Remove the wheels, take apart the brakes, remove the dustcap from the rotor, remove the cotter pin, castle nut, washer, and outer bearing, then replace the castle nut and yank the rotor off (the intention is to catch the inner bearing on the castle nut and pop off the grease seal and bearing all at once). Make sure to pack the new bearings with hi-temp disc brake grease or moly grease. Replace the races (important), grease seals, and cotter pins. For the rear wheels: Remove the rear wheels, and take the rear brakes apart. Then remove the rear differential cover and let the oil drain out. Remove the spider gear spindle and use a prybar to pry the inner axle end until it pops in a little. You should now be able to slide each half-shaft out and the wheel and axle bearings are inside. Again, make sure to replace the races and pack the new bearings with disc brake grease
No, the rotor comes off by itself.
Do you mean to change just 1/2 of a main bearing, the one that is easily removeable from the main cap? That's not something you want to do. If you're looking for a way to change the bearings without pulling everything apart there is a special tool made called (believe it or not) a "Sneaky Pete." I know the tool company Lisle makes the tool.