I renctly got an 82 myslef, and the guy I bought it from stataed that if it is not started about once a week, that there is a spring and a ball bearing that will stick open, so when you start th ebike, it will pour oil. He's only fix for that was to get onit and ride, he said in afew that the spring will unstick after it has heated up, and the leak will stop. During the same time syn oils came up in the discussion, and a few others had heard where chaging to complete syn oils, solved the problem for good. Unfortuanly I have no backing for these statment sonly words of advice, good luck to you oh in case you were wondering it seems that royal purple syn was the hands down favorite between the guys at the discussion, there again I have yet to try it, or have had to try it.
I can't say a dummy, don't know you or your level of experience. As for the top end noise and the oil, take it back to who did the work and tell them to fix it. As to what the problem is, without knowing what kind of motor and tearing it apart, there is no way to know what might be wrong. First thought would be the rings in the piston. If not installed correctly, compression from the cylinder is getting past the rings and into the crankcase. It's coming out the breather because it's an easy out and possible the lowest available opening.
Clean the orifice tube at the valve cover. That's the tube that goes from the valve cover to the intake. At the valve cover it gets plugged causing crankcase pressure to get fed through the breather tube.
From the lower right side of your crankcase. It's just a gasket easy fix. 2 ways to do it. drain the oil and take the cover off and put a new gasket on it and put it back together.
it is conected to the crankcase breather/seperator If you can't find a squirrel with long arms.. It is under the Intake on the belt side. Nissan will remove the Intake to fix a 1.35 part, But at the same time they need to replace the gasket ? ? John H. eom .
chop it up with an axe then use duct-tape
The fuel inlet valve is faulty or stuck open. Even when carb float bowl is full, fuel continues to enter carb. Fuel pours into cylinder, runs down the cylinder wall past the piston, into the crankcase. As it mixes with the oil, the gas/oil mix will rise until above the crankcase breather level. It will be forced out the one-way breather valve, up the breather hose, and into the air cleaner assembly. The fix: remove carb bowl, slide float pin out, remove float, remove and replace valve needle and seat, reinstall. Make sure that valve needle is properly fit into the float slot!
There is a breather plate inside that has a small hole, if I remember correctly that little hole needs to be near the bottom. The plate can be installed upside down if your not careful then oil leaks.
No, but your crankcase should be vented anyway. If your getting coolant in the crankcase it is getting in from a bad head gasket or cracked head or bad intake manifold gaskets. If you don't fix it soon your engine will be toast.
A Breather Cap within the guidelines of Manufacturers Specifications
If it is coming out around the top of the stick, you have either a plugged pcv valve/crankcase orifice tube or excessive engine blow by. Blow by is the normal leakage past the piston rings. Excessive blow by will require a new/rebuilt engine.
NO
$150 to $600 depending if the transmission or engine has to be lowered/removed or if it can be changed through crankcase removal.