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Its not cold...? LOL - It all depends on what the system is, but as a general rule of thumb if you asking HIGH as in over what is specified over normal reading for the system in question. It usually is SOOT buildup on the coils or inside walls of the heat exchanger.... Sounds funny but true.... the other is the AIR intake is not set correcly... but that you should be able to see by eyeballing it. The best is to find a reputable oil man ask if they can do a smoke CO and O2 test of the boiler. No one really out there spends the time to do this service right because till you test everything pump pressure, nozzle size, draft, flue, and other settings and then change the nozzle, it can be a pain. Most boilers should be used with the factory recommend nozzle and maybe one size lower. If you change a nozzle you also need to take into account pump pressure. I also could recommend the HEAT MANAGER 2.5 setup, I wish they would take that system to a even more modern one and add outside air temp sensor and a roll back of the boiler during he warmer days, its dumb to heat a boiler to 140+ temps on days that its over 40 or so... and for the price of 240 or so for the Heat Manager that's some heavy profit for sure.. can't see the thing being a few buck 50-100 with todays electronic prices... but I digress, heat and air in the house is one of the last things to get cheap... can you say everyone has them and I see people buy setups for 5k-7k are they nuts? Can you say VCR? DVD? How about KINETIC SYSTEM 2000 that's a nice setup, would like them to make it a little bit more moderm looking but they are getting there...

Were the hell is the talk of COMPUTER CONTROLLED stuff in this day and age with FAIL SAFE fallbacks for emergency usage??? I seen allot and well don't get it..??

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Q: A high stack temperature indicates what on a oil burner?
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