Are 3 tab shingles recoverable or non recoverable?

Answer 1

The answer is "it depends". First, local codes may influence your decision. Here in Florida it is possible to shingle-over three tab shingles if the local code inspectors provide a visual inspection that determines the shingles are in 'good enough' condition to form a secondary underlayment to the new roof. Basically, this logic should guide you where there are no code issues. If the old shingles are in good shape then I'd say OKAY to shingle over. Use longer roofing nails, you can use a titanium film, and nail it all down like crazy. But in reality, why would you want to shingle over vs. clean off the deck, apply peal and stick underlayment, and new shingles? Economics? I'd argue that logic will cost you money down the road after letting you just get by. If you are a homeowner and if it's your home for the long term... don't be a dummy, pull off the old shingles, tar paper and construct a new roof coating which starts with renailing the deck to trusses (or rafters), apply peal and stick underlayment, new drip edge, and quality shingles (go for 30 to 40 year products). The answer is "it depends". First, local codes may influence your decision. Here in Florida it is possible to shingle-over three tab shingles if the local code inspectors provide a visual inspection that determines the shingles are in 'good enough' condition to form a secondary underlayment to the new roof. Basically, this logic should guide you where there are no code issues. If the old shingles are in good shape then I'd say OKAY to shingle over. Use longer roofing nails, you can use a titanium film, and nail it all down like crazy. But in reality, why would you want to shingle over vs. clean off the deck, apply peal and stick underlayment, and new shingles? Economics? I'd argue that logic will cost you money down the road after letting you just get by. If you are a homeowner and if it's your home for the long term... don't be a dummy, pull off the old shingles, tar paper and construct a new roof coating which starts with renailing the deck to trusses (or rafters), apply peal and stick underlayment, new drip edge, and quality shingles (go for 30 to 40 year products). Don't go cheap... it will come back to bite you. Be sure to replace soft plywood deck material, remove old unused vents, patch with plywood, and replace the ridge vents with a modern counterpart (off ridge or more efficient ridge vent designs). My re-roof project started a month ago. I've rebuilt the fascia/soffit on one side so far, I've got a plan to rebuild the soffit/fascia on the other side with a change to the shape of it (making it straight vs notched), and then tackle the tear off of shingles/paper to rebuild the roof surface. My motivation? It's my home. If I renail, use peal and stick underlayment, and 40 year shingles I'll qualify for an insurance discount of about 40% (500 bucks a year, each year). The insurance discount will payu for half the cost of rebuilding my roof.