If the grass exits the right side of the deck, then the threads are normal right handed treads. If the grass exits the lefts side of the deck, then the bolts thread are left handed threads.
Looking at your blade from under the mower view. If it turns clockwise it will have reverse threads. If the blade rotates counter clockwise it will have the most common thread which tightens with your wrench in a clockwise direction.
They're typically regular thread.
First unplug the fan. Second remove the bolts on the out side of the plastic fan shroud, the motor and fan blade are connected to this then remove the whole unit out of the car. Then remove the bolt that's connecting the fan blade to the motor, these bolts usually are reverse threads to you have turn the bolt to the right to remove it. i know it sounds crazy. Then the motor should come free of the plastic shroud and the blade. finally reverse the steps.
Most blade bolts on lawn mowers are reverse threaded. The bolts on the Craftsman brand lawn mower are also reversed.
They are threaded the same way as SAE bolts; both have applications that have reverse or "left-handed" threads.
Not all crankshaft pulley bolts are left hand thread. In my experience if it is a left hand thread the bolt head normally has an L stamped on it to notify the direction of thread
Small Block Chevrolet Torque Specifications Main cap bolts (oil on threads).....................................................70 ft.-lbs. first set wrench for 45 ft.-lbs and tighten each bolt, then set wrench for 70 ft.-lbs and torque each bolt again. Rod bolts (oil on threads)............................................................45 ft.-lbs. Oil pump bolt (oil on threads).......................................................55 ft.-lbs. Head bolts (sealer on threads).....................................................65 ft.-lbs. Screw-in rocker arm studs (oil on threads)....................................50 ft.-lbs. Cam sprocket bolts (oil on threads)..............................................20 ft.-lbs. Intake manifold bolts (sealer on threads except four corner bolts)....35 ft.-lbs. Harmonic balancer (oil on threads)................................................65 ft.-lbs. Flywheel/flexplate bolts (oil on threads).........................................65 ft.-lbs. Pressure plate bolts (oil on threads)..............................................35 ft.-lbs. These specs are for stock-type bolts, if you are using aftermarket bolts you should follow their recommended torque specifications.
NO!
You can buy the part online or at your local John Deere dealer ~$30. Take the hood off, remove the battery, and from the bottom side you should be able to access the two bolts. You will need to remove them as well as the screw that holds the cable on at the engine. You can replace just the lever, but it comes complete so you might as well do it all. The bolts are a real pain. You will need extensions and a universal joint. Bolts should be 10mm. Be careful not to strip the threads.
As with most bolts, removing these bolts requires them to be turned counterclockwise as you look at the bolt head. Many times they are rusted in place. The best way to remove them is with an impact gun and a 5/8" hex impact socket.
They are metric bolts 8mm x 1.25 pitch and are hard to find anywhere but your local JOHN DEERE dealer.
Remove the upper fan shroud, then the fan blade. Remove the P/S pulley with the proper tool, then remove bolts and reverse to re-install.