Try Bar's Leak. It's less harsh than block sealant and is helping a bit on my '88 Chevy Nova with 210k. It's also cheap ($3.99).
I would NEVER put a stop leak in a cooling system. The system relies on open passageways to flow and cool the motor. The stop leak such as the BAR's product does not know the difference between a passegway inside the system or a passageway out of the system such as a leak including a headgasket problem. (Supposedly, the head gasket sealant solidifies due to the much higher temperature of the cylinders.) If you plug up a cooling system you now have to find where the plugged area is. This could end up being a problem in the thermostat, radiator or heater core. Is it worth the risk for a temporary solution?
Look at and investigate http://www.rxauto.com/. Copy and paste link.
This product states that their product will only 'seal' an area that is 3-4 times hotter than the rest of the system - & then it protects the seal. Reading the testimonials and further research may prove useful depending on how old your vehicle is and your mechanical expertise. Of course, fixing the cause of overheating and warpage is priority no. 1, but if you have a car/truck that you only need to last for 6 or 12 more months AND you cannot/will not get the major repair done right away this product may be what you need.
No. Fix it right. Some of the sodium silicate sealers can work for a little while, sometimes, but they always plug up parts of the cooling system. So a week later, the leak comes back, plus the heater core and radiator are all gummed up. Changing the head gaskets on this car is pretty easy, and the parts are cheap. Only try the goop if you are otherwise ready to junk the car.
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