Try Bar's Leak. It's less harsh than block sealant and is helping a bit on my '88 Chevy Nova with 210k. It's also cheap ($3.99).
I would NEVER put a stop leak in a cooling system. The system relies on open passageways to flow and cool the motor. The stop leak such as the BAR's product does not know the difference between a passegway inside the system or a passageway out of the system such as a leak including a headgasket problem. (Supposedly, the head gasket sealant solidifies due to the much higher temperature of the cylinders.) If you plug up a cooling system you now have to find where the plugged area is. This could end up being a problem in the thermostat, radiator or heater core. Is it worth the risk for a temporary solution?
Look at and investigate http://www.rxauto.com/. Copy and paste link.
This product states that their product will only 'seal' an area that is 3-4 times hotter than the rest of the system - & then it protects the seal. Reading the testimonials and further research may prove useful depending on how old your vehicle is and your mechanical expertise. Of course, fixing the cause of overheating and warpage is priority no. 1, but if you have a car/truck that you only need to last for 6 or 12 more months AND you cannot/will not get the major repair done right away this product may be what you need.
No. Fix it right. Some of the sodium silicate sealers can work for a little while, sometimes, but they always plug up parts of the cooling system. So a week later, the leak comes back, plus the heater core and radiator are all gummed up. Changing the head gaskets on this car is pretty easy, and the parts are cheap. Only try the goop if you are otherwise ready to junk the car.
sand buckets are kept ready at petrol pump so that if there is fire by chance so the sand can be thrown over it to cut it contact from air so that the fire cannot extend
Re-up
your heart and all other bodily functions are worked out, thus stronger and ready for their constant use. when u are old, they will keep on going for they were treated well and used.
if you just want to fix the oil leak under the distributer just pull the distributer out and replace the gasket. or is it an intake gasket leaking .
you take it off and throw it, but you must throw it an exact 57.8 inches otherwise this wont work. then you go pick it up and make sweet sweet love to it. then it is ready for change
To change oil - have ready: oil, a recycle container to drain oil into, rags, oil filter, oil plug gasket (plastic washer). Drive vehicle until completely warmed up, remove oil drain plug, drain oil into recycle container, I take off the oil filler cap for quicker drainage, remove used oil filter - oil will come out here so have recycle container ready, lube new oil filter gasket with oil and put on (follow tightening instructions on filter). When completely drained, oil the oil drain plug gasket if not squished too much, otherwise get new plug gasket. Add recommended amount of oil, replace oil filler cap, run engine for a minute, let oil settle (about 10 mins) re-check oil level and adjust as needed, check oil again later to make sure no oil loss and correct level of oil. On older vehicle stay with organic oil (not synthetic) newer vehicles may do best with a synthetic blend. QUICK SHEET: 1) Warm up vehicle 2) drain oil into recycle container 3) replace oil filter (oil gasket seat) oil will come out here too - have container ready 4) replace oil drain plug (change gasket washer if needed and lube gasket) 5) add oil, recheck level after running and letting sit for a while.
In the oil pan. Jack up the car and safely secure on jackstands. Unbolt the oilpan (have a new oilpan gasket ready), you will see the netted oil pickup and the oilpump. Be careful to not bend the pickup arm.
I am not sure of the certain vegetable but all veggies can be blanched (put into boiling hot water for one minute and the shocked cold with ice cubes and water) and frozen until ready for use
Drain your cooling system by removing radiator hose or bung in radiator. Find thermostat housing unbolt and remove thermostat taking not of the way it sits in the housing, clean surface ready for new gasket pop new thermostat into housing replace gasket and use a gasket sealer and bolt back on thermostat cover. fill radiator back up start engine and bleed cooling system make sure thermostat opens will see temp gauge move. check water level after test drive
Get out a tool that is shaped like a "T" and pry away the plastic cover that protects your engine. Then, take a razor blade and slice away the valve cover being careful not to hurt yourself. This is not easy, but take your time. Then, install the new valve cover gasket and you're ready to roll!! Then celebrate your big victory with beer and some sex!
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