If the fibers of the wood have been cut, as opposed to being dented, then the wood cannot be raised at that point. If just depressed or dented you can try placing a damp cloth (after the finish has been removed) over the damaged area and a hot iron over that. The steam generated can sometimes swell the wood back to its original level. As for the finish you should probably read up on the subject & determine what you want prior to attempting. Most large book stores have books that cover the subject.
We have specialized in stock restoration and repair for 20+ years and have done a couple of Beretta Silver Snipes. I personally own one that my father gave me when I was 16 so I will go to some extra length to help you out here.
The first precaution I can offer is that when you remove the butt stock be sure to use masking tape around the screwdriver shaft. Build up the diameter of the shaft to insure that it centers with the bored hole in the stock to prevent the screwdriver bit from jumping off of the screw head as it will become wedged and split your stock. There are no replacement stocks currently available and it would be relatively expensive to have it duplicated and checkered. The wood finish process used by Beretta included a wood stain applied prior to the finish unlike the pre 64 Remingtons and Winchester that had the stain in the finish. I would suggest Laurel Mountain Forge stain (walnut) if you are trying to achieve the original color but an old English red looks very nice. For finish I would suggest Classic Gun stock Finish by Pilkington. Both can be purchased from Brownells. Be sure and closely follow the 1000 word instructions that come with the finish.
Strip the old finish then wash the wood down a couple times with lacquer thinner. Whisker the wood by wetting it with distilled water which will raise the grain. Cut the wiskers off with 400 grip gold paper. You can raise any dents where the wood fibers are not broken with a cloth wetted with distilled water and an iron applied on top. The steam will raise the dents as wood fibers have a memory. Any gouges can be filled with walnut wood filler. You may have to gain the repairs with a gaining pencil to help blend them. Stain the wood and apply the finish per the directions that comes with the Pilkington finish. It is a sanded in finish meaning you will be filling the grain as you apply the finish in multiple coats. If you don't use Pilkington's you may need to use grain filler (walnut color) before staining. Lastly, during the wood refinishing process would be a good time to have the metal re-blued if it requires it. The Beretta Silver Snipe had a rust blue rather than a dip and ship hot blue. Rust blue is more expensive but much more durable. Good luck with your restorations.
You have have to buy scratch removal products to get rid of the scratches on you silver bracelet.
Take it to a Jeweller who has professional equipment to remove the scratches.
In some cases the only way to remove scratches from a sterling silver ring is to bring it to a professional. This is the case with deep scratches. For light surface scratches, you can try using toothpaste to buff them out.
A silver company can restore by adding or removing. Adding means adding in pieces that have broken or layers of silver that have worn off. Removing means cleaning off the grime.
I use the Medallion Liquid Silver to replate and refinish old or worn silverplate. I buy $ Resell silver plate and this product make the silver like new. I highly recommend it.
If your silver dollar has scratches, dirt, or is dark colored it is circulated. If it has no scratches, is shiny, has no dirt, and looks new it is most likely uncirculated. Uncirculated silver dollars are worth more than circulated silver dollars. Many silver dollars are however circulated.
Would need to know which specific model. "Silver Hawk" has been applied to several different series of Beretta shotgun.
The Silver Perdiz is the predecessor to the the 687 Silver Pigeon. This model stopped manufacturing in 1996. Perdiz mean partridge in spanish.
£ 500 All day long .
It would have very little scratches or other dirt on the coin.
If in good shape with no scratches, it is quite valuable.
nail polish remover can remove nail polish and silver polish can restore the gleam of the silver object.........
Yes even with the few minor scratches you can still sell them but they wont be worth as much as a perfect silver coin
Probably $700 to $900
my Beretta is a 94 and it hood release is broke just the silver cable show ,,, i use needle nose pliers and pull it !
50-350 USD or so
yes try any auto shop they can help you
Depends on the condition I would pay $20 for a proof with no marks or scratches
Teeth that have a thin, silver line, may have been filed with a silver amalgam or composite resin. This material helps to restore and protect the tooth from further decay.
I have one ,witch I got in the 1960s-it's not hear so i don't know the serial #-butt it is a 12gauge silver pigeon.
Go and talk to the gentleman at lavender town's radio tower.
Tan-x or any jewelry polishing cloths you can buy on ebay
If it shows a lot of ware or scratches it is most likely circulated. If it shows very little or no ware it is uncirculated.
Personally, I find black to look smarter but silver does look smart anyway. Apart from that, Silver doesn't show scratches as much as black Beats. If you are prone to damaging your headphones then I recommend silver. But if you are more into the style then I recommend the Black Beats.