Bleed rear brakes on a cr250?

Answer 1

There's a few different ways to bleed any brake (or hydraulic clutch) system, but this will work for both. Start by positioning the bike so that the top of the reservoir is level. This may necessitate loosening the perch so that it may be rotated slightly on the bars. Once it's set to the proper angle, remove the reservoir cap and fill with the correct fluid. Set a box-end wrench over the bleed nipple on the wheel cylinder (caliper), followed by a section of clear tubing pushed onto the end of the nipple, long enough that it can reach the floor. Aquarium air hose works great for this, and is easy to obtain. Place the lower end into a "suitable" container (empty beer bottle?). Remove the reservoir's cap and look into the bottom of the reservoir. You will see either one or two holes, or a small perforated disk staked into the bottom. Now, VERY SLOWLY squeeze the lever to the bar. Some systems will shoot a real geyser of fluid, so take heed and use your best judgment for lever speed. After two or three pulls on the lever, stop with the lever held against the bar. The system is now under some pressure, so all you have to do is loosen the bleed nipple with the previously applied box-end wrench. Usually, one-eight-turn is about all you'll need. Expect to see and hear some movement of brake fluid into the clear tube. Snug the bleed screw back down, release the brake lever, and repeat. Be sure to keep enough fluid in the reservoir so that the holes in the bottom don't suck air, or you'll have to start over. Once you feel that you have the system purged of all air, remove the clear line and replace the bleed screw cover cap, if applicable. As a final note, don't tighten the bleed screw much. They like to seize in place.