Blower motor on 2003 ion works on number 4 speed only with number 1 actual speed.. Is the resistor for the blower motor a part of the blower motor assembly or separate and mounted somewhere?

Answer 1

Blower motor problems for the Saturn IonI've found out what is wrong in the case of speeds 1-2-3 not working, and speed 4 acts like low speed on a customers 2003 Saturn ION.

What has happened is that the copper contact plate that routes/switches the hot lead of the switch to each of the 4 speeds has jumped out of its keyed position on the end of the switch shaft, so when the knob is on position 4 the plate is connecting power to the low speed set of contacts.

I did all the usual troubleshooting of the blower motor, resistor pack, fuses, and relay, all were fine, and narrowed it down to the switch. The reason for the problem was that the round copper contact plate inside the switch had somehow got off the key, and allowed the plate to rotate 90 degrees, thus making the wrong connections.

I fixed the problem by eventually pulling out the HVAC control panel, and implementing the following.

Instructions on how to fix a 2003 Saturn blower control switch;

Find a safe place on a clean bench so you don't loose any parts.

1. Leave the knob attached on the front of the panel so the shaft of the switch does not fall out. It is holding springs, a plastic detent, and a steel contact BB in place, on the inside of the switch. You shouldn't have to remove the shaft. If you do, remember the steel BB goes on the spring on the outside, or larger diameter circle, and the plastic detent goes on the spring on the inner diameter circle. The steel ball is an electrical connection, and the plastic piece is for the detent positions.

2. Remove the 2 screws holding the blower switch in from the back of the panel. Orient the panel face down, and gently pry the 3 tabs open holding the back of the switch to the main control housing.

3. Pull the back of the switch apart slowly, there is a spring and a copper contact plate that will pop up when the switch back is pulled off. Note the position of the coper plate and spring.

4. If the 2 bumps on the contact plate appear clean and have dielectric grease on it, just leave it unless you have some more grease and want to clean the copper contacts.

5. On the end of the main shaft that sticks up inside the switch housing, there are 2 tabs or keys on the end. It is a 2 level double key. If these are broken or worn down so they don't grab the round copper contact plate , YOUR SCREWD, and need another HVAC Fan Control assembly or a good shaft out of another bad unit.

6. If it is still good you should be able to reinstall the spring and copper plate. With the bumps of the plate facing out towards the inside of the back of the the switch housing cover, and the spring on the end of the shaft, place the copper plate onto the keyed shaft while compressing the spring (there's only one way it will go on the larger first level key).

That is the first level keying, push the plate a little further till it goes past the second level of keying and turn the plate 90 degrees (I think it was counter clockwise, if not turn it 90 degrees clockwise). Start releasing the copper plate and it will fall onto the smaller set of keys, and be held in place by the larger first level keys. There is only one way the second level keying will go, because of the different sizes of the two tabs.

7. The spring will be compressed, and the copper plate should feel firmly in place, and rotate with the knob on the front of the shaft. Hopefully it should stay put.

8. Now snap the switch back into place and install the 2 screws. It should be ready to test.

Hopefully this works for you. I just did this repair and have no idea how long it will stay in place. However if the keying is in good shape, and you don't go spinning the dial wildly with great force, hopefully it will last awhile.

Regards,

Willie The Wizard