If you do not add a junction box it looks like new wire all the way from the old junction box with new wire that is longer. It's a tough place to be.
A 240 volt wire is the insulation factor of the wire. If you mean a 240 supply source from a distribution panel to a junction box then the answer is yes. You have to keep in mind that the box has to be accessible, meaning that you can get to the box to check the splice within the box. Don't bury the junction box behind the wall board.
Yes, as long as that junction box is accessible after you finish the remodel. It cannot be inside a wall or anyplace that it cannot be gotten to. Make sure it has a cover on it.
Yes. Just make sure you keep the junction box accessable to meet code. Also if you are extending the outlet to more than 75 feet away from the panel you should run 4-3 wire.
The answer depends on what type of access you have to the junction box. The wire external to the box may have some slack that can be brought into the box. If everything is tight you will probably have to install one or more additional junction boxes or rerun wire from electric panel. As an example assume that the short wire has no external slack, but you can install a new junction box near the other box and in the path of the short wire. 1. Pull the short wire from existing junction box. 2. Install new box in path of short wire so more slack will be available in the additional junction box; and pull wire into new box. 3. Run a wire of the same size from new to old box and re-splice any connections for original short wire or new connections; and connect this new wire to the original short wire in the new box. Make sure you follow all code requirements for your locale.
You don't; you call an electrician out to safely finish the job for you.
Connect the green wire to the bare wire in the junction box. Connect the white wire to the white wire in the junction box. Connect the black blue wires to the black wire in the junction box. The black is usually the fan and the blue is usually the light on the fan. They seperate them in case you wish to hook the fan/light to two switches.
No, do not mix aluminum wire with copper wire.
The wire nuts do not have to be inside the junction box. They must, however, be as tight as possible to keep moisture from inside the light fixture.
Using a box that is hire voltage than what you need can cause a short, and even a fire. So using a 240V box, when all you need is a 110v receptacle, wouldn't be a good idea.
There is no restriction on different size wires being spliced in the same junction box. If your question involves splicing 8ga. to 10ga, this also is not a problem so long as the circuit allows for 10ga wire.
No it is not a standard practice. That said you will find such a connection from a light fixture junction box, that has the supply source in it, down to a a light switch junction box. The neutral for the light is already at the light junction box but the switched leg has to go down to the switch. The black "hot" wire is connected to the white wire in the cable going to the switch and from the switch it returns in the black wire in the same cable which is then connected to the light fixture.
Piggyback off the box for the existing light. Run a wire from the existing junction box to a new junction box (which is placed wherever you want the new fixture). Then, in the existing box, connect the wire coming from the switch, the wire for the existing fixture, and the wire for the new fixture together using wire nuts. Wire up the new fixture, and presto, you have two fixtures on a switch where there was only one before.
You need to splice the extension Romex, using wire nuts, inside a covered junction box made for the purpose. If you can do it within the original outlet box you can put a blank cover on the box. If not you may have to install a new "old work" box in wall. If you can get to wire in attic or basement you could put the junction box in one of those locations. The junction box must be accessible so you can't bury it in the wall.
The pre wire for a ceiling fan light should be made with a three wire cable. This cable will have a red, black, and white wire as main conductors. This cable will also have a bare ground wire. This wire should be strung between a two gang switch box to the fixture junction box. This pre wire allows the supply to be either fed to the two gang box. From the two gang switch junction box, one side will be used for the light in the fixture and the other side of the switch junction box, itwill be used for the fan portionin the fixture.
Yes, as long as the junction box will remain accessible at all times and the wires are held together with an approved #10 plastic wire nut. Also tape the wire nut up securely after tightening it down. Be sure and place an approved cover over the junction box.
In some cases in residential wiring you do. From a light fixture junction box to a switch box, the cable is a two wire, black and white. To connect the switch into the circuit at the fixture box, the "hot" conductor is connected to the white wire that goes down to the switch. The switched "hot" comes back on the black wire and this is then connected to the fixtures black wire. The white (neutral) is picked up in the fixtures junction box and connected to the fixtures white wire.
3 prong the 2 black wires are your hot and the braided is your neutral.
Yes, as long as all splices are made inside of an approved type junction box.
A tiny 2-prong junction box on the firewall. one wire comes to it from the Ignition, & the other wire goes out from it to the starter. If you take a jumper wire from the positive on the battery & touch it to the post on the junction box where the starter wire comes out, with the key on, It should start the truck. If it doesn't, you need a new starter.
If you are talking about the two wires when looking in a switch junction box or light junction box they will be the switched leg. The white wire is supposed to be identified with black tape to show that it is a current carrying wire but in a lot of cases this does not get done.
You do not use a ground wire in the connection from the meter base to the distribution panel. A bonding wire may be required if the service is using PVC conduit.
Any splice or termination to a device has to be done in a junction box. Wire splices are the critical and most likely point in a circuit where a fault can occur. The purpose of the junction box is to suppress the fault to to the confines of the box. This usually is enough protection to cause any fires that may be started from the electrical fault from spreading to other surrounding combustible surfaces.
No, just make sure the connections inside are tight and placed under a wire nut and taped up. The junction box must have a lid and it must be assessable at all times.