Can a Volkswagen Beetle float on water?
If there are no holes in the floor pan and all the seals are good, VW Bugs will float. Right now, after what--30 or 40 years collecting pan holes and dry-rotted seals?--you should not try it. Oh yes...on the 1970 and later Bugs there are those little grilles behind the back windows. You've seen 'em, right? Volkswagen "officially" sez they're in there for ventilation. The real reason they're in there is because with the 1969s and earlier, that didn't have those vents, the car was sealed so tightly you couldn't slam the doors shut because they wouldn't latch if you tried it.
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you start by taking out the 2 bolts the hold the starter in,, then disconnect the wires and replace starter..er i mean disconnect wires first or one bolt then one wire then the other bold AND OTHER WIRE
Parts needed: 2 sets of 6-1/2 speakers 4 one inch spacers (for each speaker) 16 two inch self tapping screws to mount the speakers to existing screw holes Note: Cut off the connector that is part of the body of the OE speakers and solder them to the pigtails that came with the replacement …speakers. This will allow for a clean install without cutting wires. If you want to get fancy the spaces can be cut to install the OE connector through the spacer ring's side similar to the layout of the OE speaker and then weld it into position by melting bits of discarded plastic from the OE speaker frame with a soldering iron. Here is how I did my car (2000 TDI Beetle without Monsoon sound system.) Rear and Front door speakers are 6 1/2". First of all, don't even start until you have the specialized adapters for the front door speakers (see description below.) My project came to a screeching halt (half done) until I acquired these. While you're at it, acquire a nice set of Torx drivers too. Rear Speakers: The interior panels come off all in one piece. The front-most point is floor level about 150mm (well you do own a German car don't you?) before the back of the doorway (when the door is opened.) The back-most point of the panel is about even with the upright part of the rear seat. First pull outward around the back and bottom of the panel to pop out the little plastic clips that hold the panel to the car body. Do not pull outward at the top of the panel (where it meets rear window.) There is a little "shelf" here on the panel that needs to disengage by pulling the panel _upward_ AFTER the little plastic clips at the periphery have been undone. The one shelf I broke re-attached successfully with epoxy and a set of small clamps. After you get the interior panel off, you will see the 6 1/2" speaker mounted in a fairly flimsy mounting panel that buzzes after replacing the speakers. This mounting panel is attached to the car body by 4 rivets. I fixed the buzzing by drilling out the rivets, removing the mount panel entirely, putting nice pieces of rubber where car body meets mount panel, then re-attaching the mount panel with sheet metal screws. I don't remember the diameter of the screws, but it was the largest diameter screw I could find at my local Home Despot store. Also I had to saw off the back screws so they didn't punch holes in the car body. The front screws had plenty of room. Dynamat (TM) is a nice, if preposterously expensive, way to kill some of the vibrations the mount panel will light itself up with if left per the factory installation. If you're resourceful you can probably find a good damping material and adhesive to mount to these panels to kill some of the stray vibrations here. I'm sorry to report I can't give you guidance on the polarity of the speaker wires (which had colors that gave no clue as to the polarity.) I just attached them temporarily each way, listened, and picked the polarity that sounded best. Don't cut the original speaker wires completely, just strip off a centimeter or so of insulation and solder on a new lead for your new speaker. Please _do_ keep track of which speaker wire is attached to the terminal with the small spade on the factory speaker so at least you can wire both rear speakers with the same polarity. Don't worry too much, you won't damage anything by switching the polarity, but the speakers might sound different. There's probably a better way to do this part, but that's how I did it. Front Speakers: You will probably need to buy specialized adapters to mount the speakers roughly 30 mm outward from the plane of the interior surface of the door. My adapters are manufactured by a company named Scosche, but at least one other company makes ones that work well too. While you're at it, also make sure you have the right torx driver (is it a #20?) to undo the three screws at the bottom of the door's interior panel. Also be prepared to drill out the rivets that hold the speakers in the front door. Sounds scary, but don't let this part stop you. There is also a chance your new speakers are deeper than the factory ones, which means you might need to cut holes in the interior panel. This also sounds scarier than it really is. Take heart. It's worth it. The factory speakers are positively junky! OK. Unscrew the three screws along the very bottom of the door panel with your shiny new Torx driver. Pry off the small (~30 mm x 150 mm curved) crescent part on the interior door handle and undo the screws you find there. Now you are ready to undo the plastic mounts and "shelf" near the window in the same way as described above for the rear interior panel. Pop the plastic mounts out at the bottom and sides. Then pull upward on the panel to release it from it's mount at the top part. Mine struggled and reisisted, but eventually came without breaking anything. On the inside of the panel you will find a half dozen or so various electrical connections (door locks, gas cap cover latch switch, etc.) to detach to remove the panel. These are easier to re-attach during reassembly than I thought they were going to be. Each wire kind of remembers the location and orientation where it was attached, and the connectors allow only one way of connecting, so this worked well. The door latch was a mechanical thingie that was pretty easy to undo and redo (I have already forgotten the details.) Drill out the rivets holding those cheezy factory speakers, and the rest should be fairly straightforward. ;) Make sure the new speaker doesn't interfere with rolling the window all the way down. To check, you can actuate the window even with the door panel & connectors off by putting the key in the outside door keyhole and turning & holding the key for several seconds. ( Full Answer )
Answer \n. \nThe OTHER place Volkswagen liked to put horns on Classic Beetles is right in front of the front left wheel. It's close to the bumper bracket. You know how on really old Bugs, there are little oval grilles in the front fenders? The horn's right behind where those are, or would be. \n.… \nIf it's there, or even if it's in the trunk, be sure the horn and not the electrical system feeding it is bad before you change the horn...because the wiring fails more than the horn does. Just get a known source of 12v--jumper cables to your battery work--and hook it directly to your horn. If it blows, rewire.\n. \n Answer \n. \nThe horn is easily replaced. It is located on the front right of your car, in the trunk. It looks kind of like a shell, and there are two wires connected to it. Unplug the wires, unscrew the nuts holding it on, and it should come right off. ( Full Answer )
\n. \n Answer \n. \n. \nI think. it would be the knobs on each side of the parking brakes(if they are still there in that year) pull them both up (i think) while the motor is on and you should get warm air to come out.\n. \n Answer \n. \nYou probably CAN'T turn it on, unless: the heate…r boxes, which are sheet metal pieces wrapped around the cast-iron exhaust manifolds, are intact the control levers on the sides of the heater boxes are there, the butterfly valve they control is there, and the cable running to the lever is there, intact and connected at both ends the hoses connecting the heater channels to the heater boxes are there and intact the heater channels don't have any holes in them. and even if all that stuff is right, you STILL don't get much heat out of them! ( Full Answer )
Answer . Add coolant to the overflow bottle. USE ONLY VW PINK ANTI-FREEZE!!\n. \n. \n________________________________________________________________\n. \n. \nVW's historically had air-cooled engines but they now have a closed cooling system. \n. \nThe coolant overflow bottle is part of th…e pressurized cycling system and this is where you would fill it when it is cool. \n. \nDue to the design of this system, the common problem of reservoir failures occur when the bottle splits and needs to be replaced.\n. \n. \ny-think-y ( Full Answer )
Answer . It depnds on condition. A 1971 Standard Beetle in excellent condition could bring up to $12000.00 USD. Where as a Beetle in poor but drivable condition could go for as little as $800.00 USD.
Answer in quarts . 2.5 Quarts according to John Muir (How to keep your vw alive)
Either because the linkage is broken or the gear inside the transmission is broken. Have a garage check it out and see what they can find.
In 1949. . 1949. The first Volkswagen Beetles were officially imported to the US in 1949. That year, there were two Volkswagen Beetles sold. These were the models with two half-circle rear windows, also known as the Split-Window Beetles.
Answer . under the front hood, behind the spare tire. right next to the washer fluid reservoir.
Volkswagen Generally Between wipers under plastic scuttle panel Volkswagen Sharan In engine bay near battery On a late model VW Beetles The ECU is located inside of the dash, behind instrument cluster. You gain access to it by removing three pieces of the dash from the top side. More details on ho…w and tools needed can be found here... http://www.awe-tuning.com/media/pdf/NBECUinst.pdf ( Full Answer )
\n. \n. \nIf it's NOT a Super Beetle (struts) then just search for - lowered front end for Beetle - and you should get alot of hits for parts and info on exactly how. Depends on how much you want to spend and and "how low ya wanna go". Don't forget to tell them what Wheels and Tires you want or ha…ve as there is only so much room under the fenders unless you want to buy wider fenders. \nwww2.cip1.com\nToplineparts.com (for Super Beetles) \nmamotorworks.com/acvw\nand a lot more.... Wanted to add: Super Beetles can be lowered also, suggest using lowering struts and springs although it is possible to modify the original struts if you are a good welder/fabricator. There are numerous narrowed beam type setups for using wider wheels and tires and give room for turning the tires when the car is lowered. There are adjusters which can be welded into the original beams that is the easiest way, again requires a good welder fabricator. There are also lowering spindles which will add disc brakes at the same time, be aware that they can widen the front track a little. A combination of a narrowed beam with adjusters and lowering spindles seems to be the popular setup. ( Full Answer )
The fuel filter is on the underside. It is right beside the gas tank, in the middle of the body, about the equivalent of between the front seats.
The blower motor, on your 2001 Volkswagen beetle, can be found inthe front trunk compartment. The blower motor will be attached tothe firewall, on the passenger side.
In "front" of the engine (you have to get under it to get there) mounted high on the transmission.
Answer . It needs to be connected to diagnostic equipment. for the fault codes to be read and then cleared.
\nASR = anti-slip regulation. Power limiter works with the anti-lock break system to "nanny" front wheel slip. \n. \nBasically it ruins first gear on my turbo beetle, causing engine lag, so I always deactivate it to get the zoom-zoom feeling.
Ever since 1993 (I think), ALL vehicles sold in the US have been delivered with 134a. Your '99 VW would most definitely be serviced with such.
The beetle is a fuel efficient car. 25 in the city and 32 on the highway makes is fuel efficient.
i guess that depends on what year it is. i think that they take a while to break in. i have a 99 beetle tdi and if the tires are correctly inflated and the fuel injector have been well maintained i can get 40-42mpg in the city and about 50-53mpg on the highway
\n1 4 3 2 1-4-3-2 It should be printed on the front of the engine just below the alternator/generator.
You need special "keys" to get them out. Take it to a dealer and they will probably use there tools to take it out for free.
the average price of a 2001 beetle depends on the mileage of a car. a 100,000+ mileage still cost up to $17k. you should look on car classifieds to be able to compare car prices to get the best deal. i had put a link that could help you. good luck.
Two comments:\n. \nthis is done with the engine completely cold this is done every other oil change\n. \nYou need:\n. \nflat-tip screwdriver 13mm box-end wrench .006" and .008" feeler gauges 30mm socket and ratchet two new valve cover gaskets, and some kind of mechanic's glue to glue them into th…e head covers (I use regular permatex) rags and solvent Sharpie\n. \nFirst, put the car in neutral and chock the back wheels.\n. \nOpen the hood, pop off the distributor cap after drawing a line on the distributor body where the number-one plug wire is, and turn the crank pulley bolt with the 30mm wrench until the pointy end of the distributor rotor is aligned with that line. Once you do that, make sure the timing mark on the crank pulley is pointing straight up, and put a line on the pulley with the sharpie. \n. \nCrawl under the right side of your car, pry down the bail holding the valve cover on, set the valve cover aside, and find the two valves for cylinder 1--they're at the front of the engine. (Front of engine--front of car.) You'll notice the rocker arms have two ends--one with a bolt and nut, one with a little place that looks perfect for your thumb to sit on. Push on the thumb end and stick the .006" feeler gauge in the gap between the back of the rocker arm (really, the bolt sticking out the back) and the tip of the valve stem. If it doesn't go in, the valve's too tight. If it DOES go in, pull it out and try to put the .008" feeler gauge in. If this gauge goes in, the valve's too loose. If the .006 goes in and the .008 does not, the valve is right, leave it alone. \n. \nIf the valve's not right, stick the screwdriver through the box end of the wrench. Put the screwdriver in the slot on the adjuster and loosen the jam nut, then stick in the .006 feeler. Tighten the adjuster until you can't move the feeler, then back off just a little bit until you can move it--it should feel real gritty when you do. When you're there, tighten the jam nut and try to move the feeler again. If it moves, and if you can't get the .008 feeler in but you CAN get the .006 back in (sometimes you can't), the valve's done. \n. \nWhen both valves are right, turn the engine counterclockwise 180 degrees and do the same thing to the number 2 cylinder.\n. \nAfter number 2 is done, clean the valve cover, scrape out the old gasket, glue in a new one, and put the valve cover back on. Turn the engine CCW 180 degrees, go to the other side of the car, and start again. (If you've been keeping up with your valve adjustments, on a 1969 normally the number 3 cylinder, because the oil cooler blocks airflow to it, is the only one that needs any real major adjustments.) \n. \nAfter you've done the valves, change the oil, maybe the fuel filter, and do all the rest of your 3000-mile maintenance. ( Full Answer )
90ish from factory if its a diesel. If its a gas it will be around 130hp
Right now you don't. The head you need is no longer available, so what I would do if I was you is to buy a New 1600cc Longblock and put a dual-carb setup on it. This will cost you lots and lots of dollars, but it will make the car so much more fun to drive.
if you look on the dash you will see a hump running down the middle, if you push down and forward on that hump right underneath the windshield it will come off and reveal some screws .i cant remember if it is on the drivers side or the passengers side but taking the screws and panels off will reveal… it. it will be under one of the dash panels, i cant remember witch side ( Full Answer )
Double check your owners manual, I can't remember what spec is required for 2003 VW's. But it will definitely be a 5w40 oil
There are two ways. Both start the same way.\n. \nThe cheap and dirty method requires a .016" feeler gauge, a 30mm wrench and a flat-tip screwdriver. Take the distributor cap off, followed by the rotor. Turn the engine with the wrench until the points are open all the way. Stick the feeler gauge in…to the gap (pry them open if you have to). Loosen the hold-down screw a little, then tighten it again. If you can get the gauge out and back in again without prying the points open, put the car back together and you're done.\n. \nThe right way is to use a dwell meter. Hook it up, set it to the 4 Cylinder setting and start the engine. If the dwell is 50 degrees (plus-minus 2) you're done. If it's too low, the points are too far open. If it's too high, they're too far closed. Adjust as necessary to get it right. ( Full Answer )
The thing you're attempting to remove looks like two cans hooked together--a big one, and a little one with two wires coming out of it.\n. \nUnhook the battery, first of all.\n. \nNext, jack up the car and put it on jackstands. The starter lives on the right-hand side of the transmission, about si…x inches back of the drive axle. You need a 13mm wrench and a 17mm wrench to get it out, and you MIGHT need a set of vise grips. \n. \nOnce you get the car jacked up, open the hood and feel behind the engine shroud on the right side. You will find a 17mm nut. Two bolts hold the starter in, and this nut's on one of them. Try to remove it. If you're lucky, the last owner of your car welded a small bolt to the head of the bolt your nut's attached to--the small bolt will keep the big bolt from spinning around and around when you take the nut off. If you start removing the nut and it comes off, you've got this setup in your car. If you start removing the nut and the thing spins round and round and doesn't come off, clamp the vise grips to the nut, then crawl under with the 17mm wrench and remove this bolt plus the nut on the bottom of the starter. \n. \n(Then take the bolt and a $10 bill to any welding shop and have the guy dig a little bolt out of the garbage, lay it sideways on top of the bolthead, and weld it on. So long as the head of the little bolt is sticking off the side of the big bolt, so it hits the transmission when it turns, it will work fine. Tell the guy it's a bolt for a starter, and he'll know what you want.)\n. \nAnyway, once that bolt is out, unhook the two wires. One is held on with a 13mm nut; the other is a push-on and you can remove it with your fingers. And finally, hold the starter with one hand while removing the other 17mm nut. When it's out, pull the starter free and lower it.\n. \nWhen you reinstall it, I like to pull the top bolt through and stick the tip of a flat-tip screwdriver in the threads. This will help you to get the nut screwed onto the bolt because it will keep you from pushing the bolt back in. ( Full Answer )
I like the Beetle, but the Corvette is way better, buddy! So find out for yourself!!!!!!!!. ;P
inside it- remove the air filter from above, and there will be five screws (flat head type) on the top of the carb. undo those, and lift the top of the carb off. the float chamber is the bit furthest away from you, and the float is the (usually) brown plastic, hopefully air filled, box.
Forever. The Volkswagen Beetle is the most loved car in history, so it's the classic car with the very best parts availability. With very, very few examples, you can get a new example of any part for any Bug and have it shipped to you in a couple of days--or at least a part that WILL work if you mak…e it.\n. \nThe biggest example of a No Longer Available new part is the trunk lid for a Super Beetle. This is because Volkswagen sold the stamping die set to an Italian company, and they broke it.\n. \nThe hardest part to get for one seems to be a tire--VW uses a skinny 165R15 tire that doesn't fit on anything else. You can get them, but it takes some searching. (Pep Boys has them. Tire Rack does not, which is weird because they have everything else.) ( Full Answer )
Little white knob under fuel filter. Haven't even touched mine after 10k... probably will sooner or later. I trust my fuel sources. Remember, diesel fuel looks like water, so drain an ounce or so, then check to see if there is any separation of fuel and water. You will probably just drain good ol' f…uel.. smell will give it away... ( Full Answer )
Simple answer is yes. The water pump is driven by the timing belt. P.S if you are not sure on how to do this job then pay a reputable workshop. You can bend cylinder head valves if you replace the timing belt incorrectly and then you are talking thousands to repair your car! Steve:-)
200 miles an hour. ________________________ The most recent beetle car, the 2013 Volkswagen Beetle, has a topspeed of 160 to 180 mph.
If it has been overheated it is more than likely the head gasket,if it has not it could be your oil cooler if it is so equipped. If for some reason it lost coolant and it was not replaced with coolant but water instead it could also have a blown head gasket because of something called electrolysis. …This takes place when unlike metals are put together and an electrolyte is added,in this case water,the weakest point in the system is the thin metal of the head gasket. Electrolysis eats away at all metals involved,the weakest link always fails first. ( Full Answer )
The water pump is driven from the timing belt on all 4cyl new beetles. The serpentine belt only drives the A/C compressor, Alternator, and Power steering pump. The water pump also come with plastic impellers that are prone to failure and can cause stange overheating issues...
Most people think Adolf Hitler invented the Volkswagen but Ferdinand Porsche was already working on it then Adolf Hitler stole that idea and worked with Ferdinand Porsche on the beetle
First clip on the dead battery +(positive), Second clip on Good battery +This is the same color cable if you have color cables or just make sure that what you connect it is of the same polarity positive with positive and negative with ground (body of dead battery vehicle), Third clip on Good battery… - (negative), and Fourth clip the last cable to the body on the vehicle with the dead battery. Give like 20 sec and try it if nothing make sure that your ground cable is making good contact and try again, also is good to have radio, a/c, etc off when jump starting. ( Full Answer )
It is so hard to believe but Hitler that is what my teacher told me
It depends on the year of the car. Older beetles were air cooled and did not use any water.
6,000 to 10,000 dollars.. depending on the condition of the car and how good it runs:)
I get on average 45mpg using biodiesel in my 2000 vw beetle TDI. I am not sure about regular diesel, but I would guess it would be the same.
You do it the same way on both. The headlight has a chromed trim ring around it. It's held on with one screw at the bottom. Remove the screw and pull off the ring. The lamp itself is held on with another ring that's attached to the car with three screws. Remove all three and the ring will come off, …followed by the headlight. ( Full Answer )
In general, no. Like all things mechanical it will depend on several factors. If the engine overheated prior to the timing belt failure then most times the problem is a faulty water pump impeller. Replace the water pump. Until the engine is back running it is difficult to know if there is damage to …the head. Check for any signs of water or oil leaks aorund the headgasket. If leakage is present it would be recommended to remove the head for inspection. A broken timing belt can cause other damage such as bent valves which would necessitate head removal and or replacement. (Comments are directed toward the four or five cylinder in-line engines.) ( Full Answer )
The Super Beetle has a slightly longer body (front end) and more modern McPherson front suspension instead of the torsion tube type.
The ground clearance of the 2013 Volkswagen Beetle is 0 ft. 5.7 in. (5.7 in.).
It's normal for the water pumps on cars to last the life of the vehicle. Usually you only need to replace them when they give you problems.
this had a manual transmission. No turbor, no bells or whistle. Youbasic beetle Need value from 2004 please