Yes. Actually, a lot of people at pet stores that I've checked out (I have 2 female leopard geckos, they live on a Repti-Carpet) recommend forest bedding, although I have never actually tried it.
Thats what I has mine on, and we haven't had any problems so far
They can become impacted and die. gravel is not a proper substrate for leopard geckos. Paper towel and repticarpet are the only things you should have for substrate. Sand is also not acceptable, as this too causes impaction.
YES! Leopard geckos do not naturally live on sand and when they eat their food they lunge at it, eating some sand accidentally. This causes problems in the stomach which can lead to your leopard gecko dying.
Yes, a leopard gecko should not be dwelling on cold glass. They enjoy ambient temperatures of 95+ degrees. This can be done using a repti carpet/ Floor tiling. I do not encourage finely grain sand as the leopard gecko will ingest a lot during feedings. if the animal is removed for feeding in a separate terrarium, then finely grain sand would be acceptable.
Housing should be for one Leo 10 gallon tank, paper towel or repti carpet for substrate, undertank heater on the bottom of one side of the tank. two hides, one on the cool side one on the warm side. Keep the cool side hide moist to assist in shedding.
It depends on how old the Leopard Gecko is... Say it was born as a baby maybe about 1 or 2 small crickets every day. When older start putting more in there... Like 3 or 4 so on and so fourth... And if you buy a whole bunch Of food (Crickets) It is only natural for them to die.. What I have found out in my experience, Crickets stay alive longer if u put a Hardly Damp Cotton Ball Where u keep your Crickets. And I HIGHLY recommend you don't keep The Crickets in the bag when you buy them at a Local Pet Store..
the most docile is a bluetongue. i once had one and it actually licked me to death when i went to feed it
Feeding: You should feed them crickets and mealworms no wider than the space between their eyes. Also, put a dish of calcium-mineral dust in their enclosure for them to lick. Heating and Humidity: The temperature at night should be 68-75 degrees Fahrenheitand in the day should be 78-92 fahrenheit. The humidity should hover between 35 and 60%. Water: Geckos cannot drink from a water bottle, so a ceramic dish full of water should be provided and changed every night. Enclosure: A tank of 20 gallons or more should be your gecko's home. There must be inside the tank water, calcium, a cavewhere they can sleep, a substrate (Repti-carpet works the best.). Your gecko is NOCTURNAL. (That's important.)
Paper towel is the safest bedding, but most people choose to use calcium sand for their leos. Calcium sand is a great way to promote impaction and not too many hobbyists recommend using a loose substrate such as sand for this reason.
YES theres many... the most common is a bone diases.. usally if you dont have a uvb or uva rays on your bd. they also need repti cal/calcium. but not to much just a dusting hope this helps
The easiest and safest substrates for leopard geckos in captivity are papertowels. If you are looking for something more visually appealing, most hobbyists will use floor tile. Both are great ways to ensure impaction never occurs as well as very easy to maintain.
Wild hedgehogs will eat just about any insect they can get their hands on. Domesticated hedgies can be fed mealworms, crickets, silk worms, wax worms, and repti-worms. Farm-raised ONLY, no wild-caught insects may be fed to domesticated hedgehogs!
you can't really train a leopard gecko to do anything. but you can train them to do easy things such as eating out of your hand. to do this, place a mealworm on your hand and your Leo will come and eat it. if he does not come out the first time, don't be get upset because it will take time before he can really trust you.