A general rule of thumb is "clean, dry, and dull" for coating over an existing finish. The clean and dry is self explanatory, and the dull can be achieved by sanding with a suitable abrasive.
A more suitable alternative to recoating existing lacquer would be a polymerized Tung Oil like Waterlox. Waterlox will give a "rejuvenating" sheen, excellent moisture resistance, and much easier future maintenance than either a lacquer or a polyurethane.
You certainly can with great results just read the directions first.
It is not the best option . Always use polyurethane on polyurethane , acrylic on acrylic and etc ; Is even important to use them of the same brand .
No, in fact the wax can ruin the polyurethane finish. Clean the floor with a good wood floor cleaner. Do not mop with water.
A coat of shellac can be placed over polyurethane. You should use de-waxed shellac if you plan on placing more polyurethane on in the future.
You can apply "oil" based polyurethane over "oil" based enamel, you can also apply "water" based polyurethane over "water" based enamel, never mix the two, there's to much of a chance for problems.
Yes, you can, but what a waste of money.
I use oil base enamel with oil base polyurethane. Tip: Make sure you allow it to dry completely before you apply top coat. Good luck.
Yes, you can.
That's a common procedure, I haven't had any problems doing it.
Some polyurethane can be the dickens to get to soften up. After polyurethane cures it's actually a sheet of plastic. I recommend Citristrip Stripper it's real user friendly and safe to use inside. As with all chemicals, be sure you have good ventilation though. Citristrip has a long open time and if conditions are right it'll work for up to 24 hours. I would suggest applying a coat of stripper and letting it sit for a few hours, then apply another coat of stripper over the first one and cover the area with a plastic drop cloth. Let it sit overnight and try scraping. If the stripper has dried apply another coat and wait an hour and try it. Usually that will do the trick.
You should apply at least two coats of clear finish over a stain. Be sure to put thin coats of the clear finish on, you do not want it to be too thick.
Yes. Because a chemical bond is no longer possible because the epoxy coating has dried, a mechanical bond is required. This merely means that the cured epoxy must be lightly sanded before applying the next layer: the first coat should have a matt, nearly white finish.
The best solution (fastest and most durable) for protecting woods, is to use the old masters technique: apply 3 to 10+ very thin coats of glossy waterborne polyurethane (also called polyacrylic) and then apply 3 to 6 very thin coats of satin waterborne polyurethane. For each coat: apply a thin layer of the polyurethane, do not have too much on the brush and just apply it in one stroke, do not over work it. Thin coats allow trapped air bubbles to escape easily. Working the polyurethane with the brush is what causes the bubbles. The thin coats dry in 1.5 hours in ambient room temp air, this time can be reduced by using a blow drier or shop-vac. Once it is dry sand with a very fine sandpaper, like the 3M Sandblaster 320 grit. Blow the dust of the surface and wipe with a slightley damp (water) microcloth. Make sure the surface is dry and clean and then apply the next coat. Why use this method? Be very patient, the thin coats will give you an amazing end product that does not have streaks or bubbles in it. The end finnish is very close to a satin finnish, but has a wonderful depth to it because of the gloss underneath. The gloss is used because it is much stronger, if a stronger finnish is desired use more (10+) coats of the gloss polyurethane and then apply the satin coats until the desired finnish is achieved. The water-based polyurethane is used as opposed to the oil-based, because is dries much faster (hours compared to overnight), is easy to clean up with water (instead of mineral spirts), is less liley to damage brushes, and does not amber/yellow the wood like the oil-based does.