Want this question answered?
Just remove pan and change bearings.
Yes, you do not have to remove the engine.
It is impossible to do it you have to pull the engine
No.
Yes..you should be able to. You'll have to take off the starter, remove the front engine mount to be able to lift the engine slightly then remove the oil pan.
I assume you mean to ask how difficult it is to change the main bearings WITHOUT pulling the engine out of the vehicle. Don't bother. To properly replace the main bearings you need to pull the crankshaft away from the engine far enough to be able to put a micrometer on the bearing surfaces of the crankshaft. To do that you need to disconnect the crankshaft from the transmission AND pull the pistons part way out. Also, depending on the type of seal used, many rear main seals must be replaced by pressing them into place after the crankshaft is in. Don't even try to replace bearings without first verifying the status of the crankshaft. It must be round and within tolerance. If the old bearings have worn there isn't much chance that the crankshaft hasn't been affected.
By "siezed", I'm guessing that the crank bearings froze. If that's the case, either a complete rebuild (no sense pulling it out and fixing the bottom-end without doing the top end also) or a new or remanufactured engine
If you can squeeze the oil pan out you can change the mains.
Either raise the engine or drop the differential and relay rod. Its not a fun job. I recently had to replace one of my rod bearings, ( long story of issue), so I dropped the pan and did the change without pulling the engine. Its not too difficult once you get into the job. But he is correct you will need to drop the differential to get to the pan.
Wheel bearings? Axle bearings? Differential carrier bearings? Engine main bearings? Engine rod bearings? Engine cam bearings? Need more info to help you.
No
no, the crankshaft has to be removed to get to the bearings therefor removing the pullies, fan belts, timing belt, sump, main studs etc etc, if you are considering upgrading internal bearings i recommend doing a total rebuild, eg - arp head studs and main studs, eagle rods, forged or billet items inc pistons, rods, bolts, bearings, boring if needed and nitriting the crank along with the block for strengthening, no point in pulling a engine down just to change 2 bearings, may as well spend the time wisey and upgrade everything else at the same time. more money yes, but a small price to pay for 4 times the power and 10 times the strength and reliability :-)