Yes, that was the original intention of urethane.
A lacquer-based paint will provide the highest level of quality and shine, as well as lasting color.
it is polyurethane
I am not familar with "Acyrlic Urethane" paint, but I wonder if it is a urethane base paint that is applied and dried, but later has an acrylic clear-coat overlayed to bring out additional gloss. Urethane is more expensive, but lasts longer and is more durable than enamel or acrylic paints. Urethane and polyurethane paints are basically the same thing - toxic paints that require a complete body suit, full mask, and gloves for safe spaying while wet. I believe that Urethane paints are not allowed to be sprayed without a license in California. Applying different manufacturers urethane paints over each other without the proper advance preparation can cause chemical reaction problems that discolor or flake the paint and void the paint OEM warranty. Each manufacturer has their own urethane additive or primer that may allow their OEM paint to be applied over the original paint. You have to check with the paint distributor or manufacturer for details on this. This paint additive or advance preparation step is how many aftermarket paint manufacturers can make their own blend of paints to match the car manufacturer original fleet colors. However, paints made over 20 years ago may have chemical components that are not compatible with newer paints and may fail when Urethane is applied over them. For example I have a 40 year old VW that has OEM baked enamel paint on engine parts. If I apply urethane paint over the enamel, it will start to flake because of the engine temperature and chemical reaction between the paints. The best solution I have found for this enamel problem is to not take a chance - I strip the parts down to the bare metal and paint with a primer and then a black gloss urethane. Since the gloss component is already mixed in, there is no need for me to overlay with a acrylic clear coat.
Most likely auto enamel paint.
Thinner--specifically, mineral spirits. Reducer is used in urethane car paint.
Yes, that's very common. Be sure to de-grease it first,so paint sticks.
All paint in aerosol cans spray the same. However, matte paint on a car will look like, well, you know. If you are going to use spray cans to paint your car you really should use a gloss enamel. It's only a few cents more per can but the results will be 100 times better than using matte paint. I wrote a detailed answer to "How do you paint a car with spray cans" Try doing a search for it here. If you are unable to locate it, contact me through my profile and I'd be happy to help.
I am not familar with "Acyrlic Urethane" paint, but I wonder if it is a urethane base paint that is applied and dried, but later has an acrylic clear-coat overlayed to bring out additional gloss. Urethane is more expensive, but lasts longer and is more durable than enamel or acrylic paints. Urethane and polyurethane paints are basically the same thing - toxic paints that require a complete body suit, full mask, and gloves for safe spaying while wet. I believe that Urethane paints are not allowed to be sprayed without a license in California. Applying different manufacturers urethane paints over each other without the proper advance preparation can cause chemical reaction problems that discolor or flake the paint and void the paint OEM warranty. Each manufacturer has their own urethane additive or primer that may allow their OEM paint to be applied over the original paint. You have to check with the paint distributor or manufacturer for details on this. This paint additive or advance preparation step is how many aftermarket paint manufacturers can make their own blend of paints to match the car manufacturer original fleet colors. However, paints made over 20 years ago may have chemical components that are not compatible with newer paints and may fail when Urethane is applied over them. For example I have a 40 year old VW that has OEM baked enamel paint on engine parts. If I apply urethane paint over the enamel, it will start to flake because of the engine temperature and chemical reaction between the paints. The best solution I have found for this enamel problem is to not take a chance - I strip the parts down to the bare metal and paint with a primer and then a black gloss urethane. Since the gloss component is already mixed in, there is no need for me to overlay with a acrylic clear coat.
Yes you can.
I use Urethane, Matrix paint is the namebrand I use but there are plenty out there, Dupont, Basf, PPG, and Sikkins
Most likely auto enamel paint.
Thinner--specifically, mineral spirits. Reducer is used in urethane car paint.
You can use regular car paint, but most people use single-stage urethane. Single-stage urethane doesn't need a clearcoat. Popular single-stage paints include DuPont Imron and Sikkens Autocryl.
Only if it is a car with exposed wood. Called a Woody. If you are painting metal the results will be unsatisfactory.
This is the common car paint from the 1970s through the mid 1990s It is a development of earlier enamel paints and is still available for those who want it.
Here is a list of tools that is required to paint your car :sand paperwireclear coat paintbody puttyblack enamel paintpaint primera large roll of plastic (enough to cover all the windows)paint (with a urethane base, and in a color that is pleasing)car soap and waterwax stripper and a degreasermasking tapesome handy pieces of old ragsa paint sprayer (preferably with an adjustable nozzle)putty knife for the puttygarden hose with a bucketgarage / open space to paint the carFor easy instructions on painting your car, please the refer link in sources. Happy to help you.
Yes. But you can't do the reverse. So if your primer is lacquer-based you can spray an over-coat of enamel on the top.
Yes, that's very common. Be sure to de-grease it first,so paint sticks.
Paint your car what best describes your personality