A primer of any variety is meant to "Prime" a substrate! Dealing with a concrete floor new or aged, the single most important step in a successful floor covering, be it paint, vinyl, tiles, wood or carpeting, is to stop vapor emissions from migrating upward out of a slab. Very important with slab on grade construction with dehumidified [Air Conditioned] interior space. Low humidity interiors invite moisture laden outside [ambient air- relative humidity] to flow into the slab seeking the low R/H environment. This moisture vapor enters freely through the Gel-Pore/Capillry systems found in all concrete structures. Moisture carries with it, chemicals found in a concrete interior [primarily alkali's.
This moisture condenses on a cool concrete surface where it can form bubbles under vinyl, common paints or epoxy coatings. If you've heard stories about paint failures and peeling very soon after an application, most often a failure is associated with saponification or alkali burn. In any case moisture causes mold, destroys adhesives and is the root cause of flooring problems.
You need to water and vapor proof the concrete with a penetrating sealer that doesn't form a film or membrane and interfere with adhesion. Product that I use provides a 15 year waterproofing warranty, sprayed on in one application, low VOC for interior uses and accepts all mastic's or paint coatings. Not cheap but also works well. Beware of any sealer that allows for subsequent applications! (What happened to the first coat of it?) Also avoid any professed sealer product that cautions not to get it on glass or metals surfaces. They don't work!
I have seen terribly expensive clear epoxy materials [car dealerships] that you can see the moisture in the bubbles under the coating! There are three common test to demonstrate moisture vapor travel through a slab. They measure pounds of water vapor per 1000 sq.ft. and are The Bible for the flooring industry. Forget worrying about a primer, take care of waterproofing the concrete and you've won the battle!
First prime it with a concrete floor primer, available in Home Depot about $25 per gallon. - You will use much less finish paint this way.
"Primer piso" means "first floor."
You should first power wash it to remove all greasy deposits. Next paint it with Garage Floor Primer, then after a day, with Garage Floor Concrete paint. All of these products are available in Rona and Home Depot.
Radiant flooring is an option if one has an existing concrete floor. The radiant flooring system is installed underneath the concrete floor to heat the concrete.
The carpet and pad are insulating you from the concrete floor.
You can paint over your old primer, just make sure to clean your wall with TSP. And for your second question, to paint over your concrete wall you wanna make sure it's primed to seal all the pores in the concrete.
You paint it with epoxy primer.
I spoke to the one paint dealer I have confidence in and was told yes I can do exactly that i.e. put a latex (not sure about alkyd) two part epoxy coating over my concrete latex floor paint. First I sanded the surface to get a better bond and my next move is to clean the floor. As a suggestion be sure you have a concrete paint on the floor. If not you could have other problems which I encountered originally i.e. paint not adherring to the concrete in the presence of water. USE ARMORGUARD EPOXY FLOOR COATING, It will last forever, its 100% Solid, No fillers, ODORLESS and NON TOXIC, Its also made with MICROBAN to prevent mold, mildew or algae, look on www.ecosmartepoxysystems.com for more information
"I am on the first floor."
You can. You start by applying moisture barrier to the concrete--flooring stores have it--then gluing the hardwood to the concrete.
En el primer piso
there are a lot of comparisons regarding concrete floor finishes that you can find online here is one example http://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete/polishing/ there you could a lot of floor concrete that you can compare to other.