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Yes, but you need a power source, for the shunt trip coil voltage, in the circuit.
There are per-engineered shunt trip solutions such as the Littelfuse LPSM that have a transformer that isolates the line voltage from the control voltage. You simply wire the N.O. contact on the float in the shunt trip isolated contacts.
Look to see if the 30 amp panel is fed with a two wire or a three wire. If it is a two wire then you are out of luck. If the panel is fed with a three wire then the panel should have the neutral terminated in the panel. It is this neutral that you need for 120 volt connections. You didn't state how many panel slots there are in the panel. If you are able install a 15 amp breaker into the panel and connect the wires going to the load. The black wire will go to the breaker and the white wire will go to the neutral bar in the panel.
I've never heard of a 50 amp b-e-a-k-e-r. You can put a 50 amp b-r- e-a-k-e-r in a 60 amp panel; but you can only have an additional 10 amp breaker along with it. You may need to consider adding another larger panel or a separate 50 amp breaker box.
You need a breaker rated for 10 amps and 250 volts. The breaker must also fit properly in your panel.
Yes, but you need a power source, for the shunt trip coil voltage, in the circuit.
A shunt trip breaker is installed like any other molded case breaker. The only difference is that it has an internal tripping coil that is usually connected to a C.T. The breaker is usually mounted in a MCC cabinet The top of the breaker is bolted to the MCC bus bars and the bottom of the breaker is connected to the load. The load conductors pass through the C.T.'s which induces a current into the circuit to trip the tripping coil in the breaker.
A TEE is a transesophageal echo, which is a diagnostic test. A cardiac shunt is a separate thing altogether, as it is surgery. Perhaps they performed a TEE and as a result, felt there was a need to proceed further and explore the need for a shunt?
You would need to take the "input" wire for the shunt trip breaker to an electrical switch (not alarm initiating switch, which are DC voltage rated) within the Automan unit and connect to the "Common" connection and the "return", the wire to the actual shunt circuit of the breaker, from the "Normally Open" connection of the switch. When the unit activates, the switch will be placed into "Closed" position, therefore completing the circuit and activating the shunt coil.
There are per-engineered shunt trip solutions such as the Littelfuse LPSM that have a transformer that isolates the line voltage from the control voltage. You simply wire the N.O. contact on the float in the shunt trip isolated contacts.
I can only assume that you are attempting to connect 480VAC coil from a elevator to a fire system in order to shunt the elevator. In order to do this you will need a shunt trip breaker rated for this use.
The sub-panel need to be fed from the main panel, by way of a circuit breaker connected to one of the breaker locations. Or if your sub-panel has a main breaker installed you can feed from the main panel with a sub-feed lug kit. This looks like a breaker, but is only a point where you can branch off the sub panel.
Look to see if the 30 amp panel is fed with a two wire or a three wire. If it is a two wire then you are out of luck. If the panel is fed with a three wire then the panel should have the neutral terminated in the panel. It is this neutral that you need for 120 volt connections. You didn't state how many panel slots there are in the panel. If you are able install a 15 amp breaker into the panel and connect the wires going to the load. The black wire will go to the breaker and the white wire will go to the neutral bar in the panel.
Codes differ everywhere, - however if I as renovator install these appliances, I always put each one on a dedicated separate breaker.
I've never heard of a 50 amp b-e-a-k-e-r. You can put a 50 amp b-r- e-a-k-e-r in a 60 amp panel; but you can only have an additional 10 amp breaker along with it. You may need to consider adding another larger panel or a separate 50 amp breaker box.
You need a breaker rated for 10 amps and 250 volts. The breaker must also fit properly in your panel.
To be short...Yes