There is a bleeder valve on slave cylinder conected to trans simply get someone to pump clutch pedal hold it down crack valve until no more air is left in lines should only take a couple times refill master cylinder with dot 3 brake fluid and your done
Best answer I've found is here (I have a 2001 F150): http://www.clutchwizard.com/fordtruck.htm Basically the problem is that the master cylinder is at the wrong angle to bleed the system completely with the master cylinder attached to the firewall. You have to take the master cylinder off the firewall and detach it from the clutch pedal, then tilt it to get the air into the line. After that, you bleed it in more or less the usual way, with a helper operating the bleed valve, but pushing the piston directly instead of pushing the clutch pedal. The alternative is to assemble the whole system off the truck and bleed it on a bench. Good thing they made the master cylinder and the brake cylinder out of PLASTIC, and put the slave cylinder INSIDE the bell housing, huh? (My slave cylinder went at less than 60K).
There's a bleeder valve on the clutch slave cylinder, which is usually located on the front of the transmission up front near the radiator and such. To bleed the clutch you open it. And be prepared for it to take a while, cause there's a lot more fluid in those lines than you would think. You'll have to top off the Master cylinder reservoir more than a few times.
If you need to replace the slave cylinder it is located in the bell housing and the trans has to be removed. The clutch master cylinder is located on the firewall on the drivers side
Open the hood, and take a look at your firewall. If it has a clutch master cylinder its a hydrolic. If you only see your brake booster and thats it, chances are its a cable clutch. But as a basic rule, if you have a master and slave cylinder it is hydrolic.
Can mean a few things. Low hydraulic fluid( brake fluid) in clutch master cylinder, worn clutch disc, needs bleed, slave cylinder slowly losing seal, seals in master cylinder, linkage problem. It could go forever but it is probably just the clutch disk material. To sum it up it means take it to the shop because if you don't know what it could be you most likely don't know how to fix it and it will only get worse to the point where it will not move
The bleeder valve is on the front of the clutch housing. There is a metal line that goes from the firewall master cylinder to the slave cylinder. The metal line goes across the transmission. Follow it and you will find a bleeder screw with a rubber cover on it. Take the cover off to bleed the system.
If it does this in all gears, I bet your clutch is shot. Other things that could cause problems are the Clutch master cylinder or clutch slave cylinder.
first take off slave cylinder, it should be mounted on your frame, then take off hoses, connect hoses to new slave cylinder. mount slave cylinder back to frame and bleed ur clutch for f*****g hours.
From the inside of the vehicle disconnect the clutch pedal arm. Take off the master cylinder retaining nuts. From under the hood disconnect the lines. The cylinder should slide out.
To bench bleed the new master, install and bleed system should take aprox one hour, assuming all the bleeders work.
first take master cylinder off car and bench bleed it. the new one will come the bench bleeding instrustions, but generally you push the plunger in at the back and the fluid is circulated thru little hoses back into the reserviour ,you do this about a dozen times then remount to car ,hook up pipes and bleed each wheel in closet to master cylinder to farthest last. again read instructions that come with master cylinder for complete details. If you feel you cant master this one let a auto brake store bleed them for you. if you don't get it right" you no stoppy."
Good time to replace all the brake fluid. Remove the brake lines from the Master Cylinder and pump the master cylinder dry. Add fresh brake fluid from an unopened can and bleed the master cylinder. Reinstall the brake lines and then bleed all brake lines until you see clean fluid. Keep adding fluid to the Master Cylinder until you are done.Good time to replace all the brake fluid. Remove the brake lines from the Master Cylinder and pump the master cylinder dry. Add fresh brake fluid from an unopened can and bleed the master cylinder. Reinstall the brake lines and then bleed all brake lines until you see clean fluid. Keep adding fluid to the Master Cylinder until you are done.