No it's not 1 ohm stable. But it is 2 ohm stereo stable
it is 740kv
If the amplifier is not rated for 4 ohms impedence, you will quickly over-current the amp, burning out components. The power handling of the speaker and power output of the amplifier does not matter in this case. It must be compatible with the impedence load that you are connecting.
You always want to buy speakers rated higher than the max RMS output of the amp. I've blown plenty of speakers in my day as soon as I turned it on.Ohms is just as important. Never connect two or more speakers in parallel. This cuts the ohms to less than half and you will blow the amp if its not designed for it . You can connect speakers in series if you like but this cuts your RMS output to less than half and also could blow the amp. One speaker per channel and keep the gain nob one level below max to be safe.Car amps 4 ohms speakers.House amps 8 ohms unless specified.That answer (above) is not much help, nor true. (I wouldn't trust someone who has blown "plenty of speakers", it sounds like a poke and hope job.) Unfortunately, the correct answer is hard to obtain because the people who sell amplifiers and speakers don't always use the RMS power rating for CONTINUOUS power when describing the components. These manufacturers know that we folks are into POWER and they usually advertise the components "PEAK" power rating. WOO HOO!But bottom line, it's easier to blow the amp with higher rated speakers because the the amp is working too hard to fill that big jug so to speak. The rule is to get an amp with about twiceas much RMS value of wattage at 8 ohms as the speakers RMS value at 8 ohms. You'll need to leave the room because your ears will be throbbing before you'd do any damage to your speakers.But yes, it's always important to follow these steps and be sure to connect your speakers and inputs (mikes, instruments, etc.) first, AND have the power level controls SET LOW, then power up, and then adjust the volumes up until you get your sound right.Connecting speakers in parallel is a whole different topic, but it LOWERS the ohms resistance and yes, it takes lesser wattage to blow them.
416 A and 208 A respectively
A: Usually by looking at the specification for that op-amp and there will be accuracy deviation from device to device. To use it open loop is practically impossible all it tells from specification that there will be enough gain when the loop is closed and the max frequency available
1000W Kenwood KAC-7204 2/1
Yes, are we talking rms or max? If its rms you will have no problem. well the amp is a 1500 watt max but 350wx1 rms in 4 ohm
Yes. But it will not push the p3's to their max. But the P-500.2 is still a strong amp. I used the amp on two Kicker 12 inch L7's and they sounded good but they still had more potential.
no you must go lower or the same
Any amp will power a 15" sub. What you need to know is what is the RMS of the 15" sub. Lets say its 200 watts RMS than you will want a max of 200 watts for your amp.
Due to her supersonic power, I would guess at max maybe like 300 to 400 to maybe even 500 mph. Probably 300 is max for her.
Not max power but max lunedei
in the ideal situation yes. it doesn't have to be though as long as it's close to the high end of the rms, most of those statements in amp manuals that say that if you don't have more rms than the subs they will cause damage are just there to protect the company. Do NOT go with the max on either the amp and the subs, only use rms. it is good to have more. for instance, my subs max rms is 400, so an amp with rms of 475-500 would be perfect, depending on what kind of enclosure you have them in.
the subs rms tells you what u need.. so a 900 watt rms sub would be best with an amp from 800-1000 watts
Yes.
about 400
Pepsi Max 400 - 2010 TV was released on: USA: 10 October 2010