As opposed to bypassing, the switch can be cleaned. All you need is some WD40 and Silicone Spray. Open the door and soak the entire latch with WD40. Open & close it a few times, spray some more, open and close some more. Be patient! After a few cycles, the switch will break free and that warning will go away - but you're not done yet. The WD40 will gum up and cause the switch to stick again, so spray down the entire latch with the silicone spray. Spray it once more just for good measure, and you should be home free!
Hi there, here is an other solution in case that the WD40 dont give you the results that you expect
I had the same trouble on my 2002 Jaguar X-Type 3.0 and I went crazy searching for the faulty switch until I discovered that they act in the opposite way than most cars. When the switch is closed, the circuit is closed and vice versa. If you disconnect the plug form the switch it acts as if the door is opened.
I started from the front checking the switch below the hood on the driver side; you need to extract it a little so you can pull the plug out. Then I went to the driver's door, it is a pain to remove the panel on one piece because it looks to be made intentionally for being broken when it is pulled out. The switch is located inside of the latch but I was able to pull the plug out, it is a small black plug with a clip on the other side from where the cables are, very tricky.
I notice that when I short circuit the plug from the driver's door, I hear relay acting below the glove compartment but I didn't found the relay. Then I plug it back again and notice that when I hold the handle as if I were opening the door and move the latch with the other hand, I heard the click from the switch and the relay acting so I found in the hard way that there is no need for you to remove the delicate panel form the door
Performed the same test on the passenger side and decided to go to the trunk before removing any more panels. On the trunk, there is a plug connected to the latch with 5 cables, 1 brown, 2 oranges, 1 white and 1 black. One of the oranges bring 12V, the other bring 12V from the switch for opening the trunk, the black is ground and the brown is the one that goes to the switch inside of the latch responsible for having the ajar warning light on all the times.
I short-circuited the brown with the black and remove the light from inside of the trunk because that faulty latch cost me one battery already. It is not a solution but at least I will have a warning light when a door is opened and my battery won't be killed until I replace the faulty latch. I notice that the latch is Ford but who knows what kind of Ford car has it?
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