Asking this type of question usually means you aren't ready to do this yourself.
If you get any detailed "how to do it" answer here, you might attempt to do something you shouldn't be doing, and that may cost someone a shock, a home fire, or their life.
As I don't know what you are trying to power, be sure to check the frequency requirements (50/60hz) before you start. Most appliances won't mind, but better safe than sorry.
As another poster pointed out
Also, as you are only 3A away from the limit on the circuit you may want to consider running a 40A line to this appliance. Make sure all the wiring can handle it, though, including the wiring in the device.
As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed
If you do this work yourself, always turn off the power
at the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work
always use an electrician's test meter having metal-tipped probes
(not a simple proximity voltage indicator)
to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
I assume you want to know what size breaker to use? You need to find out the KW rating of the appliance. This will be stamped on the appliance data badge ( usually on the underside ) divide this by 230v For instance oven is 6.3kw so 6300/230 = 27.39 This figure is the amount of amps the appliance will consume so take the next highest breaker above this figure. So 30AMP breaker/fuse. Hope this helps!
The appliance works perfectly. If you did it the other way around (50amps on a 30amp breaker, you would be tripping the breaker. Think of it as a mercury thermometer. The circuit breaker is the maximum temperature and the load on that breaker is the mercury. If the load is lower than the max, everything works beautifully. If the load becomes greater than the maximum rating, then things starting popping.
If the appliance is just to be plugged into a circuit with multiple outlets then you just need to make sure that the sum of currents for all devices on the circuit are less than the rated current. A rule of thumb is total current should be no greater than 80% of the rated current. So you might have a 20 A breaker and several 2.5 A appliances on this circuit. If you have a dedicated circuit for the appliance you would only need to size the breaker for the maximum current being drawn by the appliance. If the appliance contained a motor then there might be a start-up current that might be as high as 15 amps so you would likely go to a 20 amp breaker for a safety margin. As a practical matter a dedicated circuit for an appliance in the 2.5 amp range should have a 15 amp breaker. I always install a 20 amp breaker just for added margin and possible future applications.
A vacuum breaker is usually installed at the top of a vertically-mounted drain pipe leading to a drain. The water drainage hose from an appliance such as a dishwasher or washing machine should never be plumbed directly into a drain stand pipe without a vacuum breaker. The vacuum breaker prevents contaminated water from the drain being sucked back into the appliance if it has a fault.
that would really depend upon the stove (I assume that you mean an appliance with an electric cooktop and an electric oven) and the size of the wire present. Most of the time a stove will require a 50amp breaker. This will mean that you would need to have 6 gauge wiring. You can probably get by with a 40 amp breaker and 8 gauge wire if you absolutely had to. Always check the appliance specifications. they will recommend a breaker size.
You probably popped the breaker. The appliance is drawing too much current for that circuit (or is combined with too many other appliances on that circuit). Unplug it, turn the breaker back on. Try to find a different circuit to operate it on, or move other appliances to other circuits to reduce the load. If you own your residence you might be able to hire an electrician to completely rewire that circuit with larger capacity wire and breaker and changing the outlets also. This will get expensive though. I cannot use my microwave cooker and my stand mixer at the same time, together they will trip the breaker for the kitchen outlets, but one at a time is OK. It might also be an earth fault in the appliance - As stated turn off other appliances on the same circuit (that should cancel out any over load) and test again . If the breaker drops then the appliance is the issue
In North America the smallest breaker to be used in the home electrical system is a 15 amp breaker. These breakers are used to protect the lighting and receptacle circuits. The capacity of a 15 amp breaker is enough to power most small appliances for the home. Larger appliances will need larger size breakers and usually are dedicated to the one appliance.
First you need to read the manufactures mane plate to find out the amperage of the appliance. Then you need to runs run a wire size to that amperage to a breaker that matches the manufactures specifications. Finally you will need a plug and outlet that that has a NEMA number that corresponds with the amperage and voltage of your appliance.
No, but that is beside the point since it is also very dangerous. I have no idea how it could be hooked into the power system without a breaker. It would have to be a real Jerry-rig.Another perspectiveAs the above response indicates, it's very dangerous to connect any appliance without the protection of a breaker. You ALSO need the ability to shut off power to an appliance. You should immediately contact a qualified electrician and have the condition corrected.
Check the MFG for the amps it uses, if it is suppose to be on a regular 20amp line, then replace the breaker with a 20amp breaker. With the 30amp breaker,it will work, but if there is a surge, you could send too much power to the appliance and fry it. Most refrigerators, are just on a regular 120v household outlet. Besides a 30amp breaker must have 10ga wire, if the wire is 12ga,it can not be attached to a 30amp breaker.
First, determine the current necessary to operate the appliance. Read the installation manual to find out the manufacturers recommendations. If the existing outlet does not supply sufficient current to operate the appliance, you'll need to run a new wire and install a larger breaker in your main breaker panel.
A three-prong plug on an ordinary appliance contains a third conductor connecting the metal parts of the appliance to a safety grounding wire in the receptacle. In the event the line voltage wires become disconnected inside and touch the metal parts, the safety grounding wire will provide a short-circuit for the hot (blowing the breaker) and provide an alternative path to ground (for the open neutral), avoiding instant electrocution of a person touching the defective unit.
A circuit breaker is an automatically operated electrical switch.Its protect an electrical circuit from damage over load and short circuit. A circuit breaker can be reset to resume normal operation.AnswerIt depends on the circuit breaker. A miniature circuit breaker, for example, contains a bimetallic temperature sensor (overload current protection) and a magnetic trip (short-circuit current protection). On the other hand a high-voltage circuit breaker contains no sensors but relies, instead, on external protective relays which, when activated, energise a trip coil within the circuit breaker, which trips the breaker.
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