If you dont understand the how to wire things into a dc system such as "do i need another battery", don't attempt to install this, there is very little reason you could need 1800 watts AC in a car anyway
There is a world of difference between putting batteries in series or parallel (not going to explain this here) and if you chose the wrong option, not only can you get hurt, but say goodbye to all the electronics in your vehicle to include the ECM, Stereo, etc.
It depends on exactly what you are talking about.Something that is described as "X" watts is really just a resistor of a fixed size that, when connected to the proper voltage supply, will produce "X" watts of energy (light, heat, sound, etc.)So, if you have something that is declared as 1800W and is supposed to be connected to 120V, then you have a resistor that is of size:120V*120V/1800W = 8 OhmWhen plugged into the proper 120V source, you will pull120V/8Ohm = 15 AmpsIf you have something that is declared as 1800W but is supposed to be connected to a 240V supply, then you have a resistor that is of size:240V*240V/1800W = 32 OhmWhen plugged into the proper 240V source, you will pull240V/32Ohm = 7.5 AmpsSo, even though both of these things were called "1800W", the key factor is what voltage they are supposed to be driven by in order to get that 1800W. These items are not interchangeable.The 32 Ohm device will not produce 1800W on a 120V source. It will produce only 450W and pull only 3.75 Amps.The 8 Ohm device will not produce 1800W on a 240V source. It will produce 7200W and will pull 30 Amps.
1800 watts will require a 20 amp circuit. Kitchen countertop outlets are usually, but not always, 20 amp circuits.
You didn't mention if that 1800W is Peak or RMS - I'll assume it's RMS.(In case you don't know the difference: RMS is basically the power level it can handle all the time. Peak is the power level it can handle for a short period of time before damage potentially occurs. Usually, Peak is double the RMS rating.)Many installers are comfortable recommending a 1 to 1 ratio. So, your 1800W sub would need an 1800W amp.I don't feel that gives enough of a safety margin. I prefer a 1 to 1.3 ratio. In which case your 1800W sub would need a 2400W amp.
I don't understand the question, but if you want to make the line into a 20amp instead of 15amp, you just install a 20amp breaker, but remember,the wire must be 12ga wire to be connected to a 20amp breaker.
Its peak power is 1800W: 2 x 900 W @ 4 Ohms Maxx Power.
Most (if not all) city codes require outlets be wired with 12 gauge wire and a 20 amp breaker. Lights can be wired with 14 gauge and 15 amps. One, or possibly a million. The question you need to ask youself is how do you intend to load this 15A circuit. It already has a light on it. Is that all? How much power does this use? What is the usage of these new outlets? How much power do you plan to draw off them? Remeber power is the product of voltage and current. So your 15A 120V breaker can supply 1800W. Sum up everything you want to put on this circuit. If you plan on drawing more than 1000W regularly on this circuit you should consider using two or more circuits. Keep in mind you want a margin of error (I went with 800W) for large temporary loads such as vacuum cleaners and irons. Don't underrate your circuit, you will regret it later. Another poster said in another thread that according to code "generally each duplex outlet may count for 180W" (Smseagle). So, to use this rule, you need to take 1800W, subtract the wattage of your security light, and divide the result by the remainder. The quotient, rounded down, is your answer.
Assuming it's a 240 v circuit, 1800 watts is 6.7 amps and a 10-3 wire is ok.
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a resistive load is the same all the time, a tungsten load has an initial surge of current that's higher until the filament heats up and it's resistance increases.
Power [Watts] = Voltage [Volts] * Current [Amps] These equations assume purely resistive loads, all in the ideal format, anything other than ideal will vary based on your homes wiring, the types of breakers that you use, the type of device [load] that you put on the circuit, etc. For a 20A Circuit: 120V (RMS) * 20A = 2400W (Keep in mind that this is an ideal case) For a 15A Circuit: 120V (RMS) * 15A = 1800W (Keep in mind that this is an ideal case)
Scroll down to related links and read "Why there is no such thing as 'RMS watts' or 'watts RMS' and never has been".
A 2 channel 900w per channel amp or less will run it, or a 1800w one channel amp etc.. Keep in mind the ohms need to match up too