We'll divide this question into two sections. Ignition key lock is defective if: 1. Key is hard to insert or remove. ( try a little WD40 ) 2. Key doesn't spring back from start. 3. Key doesn't find the detents (stops) for: lock, acc., run. Then the Ignition Key Lock is defective, and usual problem. Ignition Switch: This is much harder to detect. You will have to get the wiring diagrams for your ignition switch, remove the switch, and check each terminal for defects. The usual problem is a broken wire in the system. If you have a specific problem, like not starting, then reask your question with the sympton.
well there was a recall on part of the switch o you might make sure that isn't the part
Check your underhood emission sticker, it will have the engine size.
Can anyone please tell me where the ignition switch is located on a 2000 oldsmobile silhouette?
sorry need more info what year make and model, is ignition switch in column or in lower dash
Anyplace that sells batteries can tell you the correct size you need.
If you can tell me were it is I can tell you how to remove and replace it. I'm having a problem with mine and I can't find the d#m% thing. And it may not be the ignition switch if you van isn't starting it may be the neutral safety switch.
ignition is sticking and let me guess it was rolling try a parkin brake I am having the same problem. I don't know the answer yet, but I know that the response above is insulting. I can tell you that it, in my case and possibly yours, is not the key switch, the ignition switch, the solenoid, or the voltage regulator.
A bad ignition switch, on your 1995, Mercury Voyager, will cause the vehicle not to start. In most cases a bad ignition will cause the engine not to turn over.
What, exactly, is the problem?
If you know the battery and ignition switch is good, then the best way is to take it off the vehicle and have it tested at almost any Auto Parts Store.
There should be lots of them around in salvage yards. When you call looking for one, tell them which engine you have NOT which style van you drive.
Yes, but we can not tell you how to do this as this would be illegal if the car was not yours.
go on the internet www.autozone.com and it will tell you exactly what to do. This site even shows pictures, I've used it to fix my vechicles and it's the best site I've found.
Go to brickboard.com there are a ton of Volvo junkies on there that can tell you how from experience.
The 1992 Rangers have a distributorless electronic ignition system and if the ignition coil packs are an issue the resistance of them can be checked with an ohm meter to tell if they are OK.
When you purchase the switch from Ford, all you get is a $28.00 led light, Mounting bracket and paper work! The instructions tell the "FORD" installer how to install the switch and maybe adjust the computer! THATS IT!!! I would like to know, Why all the Secrecies and HOW YOU ACTIVATE THE SWITCH "LIGHT", when you need to tow your vehicle!! firstname.lastname@example.org
Check for power at the clutch switch, then check for continuity through the switch with the clutch pedal depressed. If there is power and continuity, then the starter (or even ignition solenoid/starter relay) is the problem.
Can some-one tell me were the relay switch is on a 1.9 tdi ford galaxy mk1, it is not by the drivers seat in the box.
I have been having the exact opposite problem. I have no spark in the start position, but spark is there when I release the ignition. I also replaced the ignition switch. This is on a 2000 mustang GT. It will start and run, but only because I release the key with perfect timing to make it catch. I just pulled my starter relay and swapped it with one of the same Ford part number (fog lights in my case) This seemed to work, but it is so intermittent, it is hard to tell if I really fixed it. Please post if you get similar results. This is driving me crazy.
You will need a Multimeter to run some test on the switch and the wiring.
The ignition switch is located on top of the steering column when you remove the two nuts, one per side, and drop it down. The tilt column has this, but the fixed column (non-tilted) igintion lock has a harness coming out of the switch and runs through the column, then plugs into the harness under the dash. That's how I can tell the difference between the two.
5.5 mm but takes a special tool to remove module the tool is 4.99 at auto zone just tell them what ur replacing and they will get you the o.e.m ignition module tool
As far as I can tell , yes ( in 1974 , depending on size of engine , there were either points or electronic ignition )
The place you stick the ignition key into is really just a lock cylinder with a rod attached to it. The rod runs down the steering column to the real electrical ignition switch, which is located on top of the steering column, often blocked (on purpose) by the brackets for power brake and/or steering column support. If you are sitting normally in the driver's seat, feet on the pedals, the switch is located over your shoe laces. Replacement of the ignition switch often involves lowering or removing the steering column. Remember to unhook the negative battery terminal before starting work. The switch is hard to get to, in order to discourage car thieves.
Ensure belt is on, check coolant level, check for leaks (ensure pressurized), Squeeze upper hose & check for circulation, do that when engine warming & you can tell moment when thermo. opens. Start there.