IAW pressure/temperature charts.....R134a (with a new or reasonably well conditioned compressor), will give you a gauge reading in pounds that equates to a specific temperature within the evaporator. theoretically you could have air at the equivilent low temperature that your gauges are reading ......however, warm air in your car flowing through the evaporator will effect the cold temperature within the evaporator because that is how air conditioning works...(the colder temperatures within the evaporator adsorbs the heat of the air passing through it) ect., .....thus, on a general basis you can add 11-15 extra degrees to the correlated temperature that your low side gauge reads and that would be the air temperature coming out your vents into the car.......for example: let say your low side gauge (after running for a few moments) equates to a temperature of 35 degrees f. then you could expect a temperature coming out of the vents to be around 46 - 50 degrees f. ..... so on and so forth.......bear in mind that a hot car with temperatures in the 100's of degrees will not register these kinds of temperatures until and unless you recirculate your inside air. It is only after you have reduced the temperatures within the vehicle to a reasonable level that you would find the above equation to have any merits. I hope this has been helpful and answered some of your questions....I am a State Licensed Heating and Air Conditiong Contractor.
Coming out of the vents around 43 degrees
It's somewhat cold. It's just very little cold air coming out. Can't hear the vent blow the air as well.
your blower motor is stuck on low
replace? why not fix it?
Cold air return vents are the ones on the wall
There should be at least a 12 degree split between the incomming air and the air comming out of the vents.
The air should be comming out of the defroster vents. If so, most likely, it is the vacuum line that controls the vents. It is on top of the engine below the air cleaner, and runs to the front right of the engine. Buy the replacment so you know what your are looking for.
The Freon probably needs to be recharged. Any repair shop should be able to do this. They should also test the system for leaks to see why the Freon leaked out to begin with.
Whatever it is set to on your heater's control keypad.
You need to pop your hood and check your vaccum lines should be by the passenger side should be little tubes and stuff with a TT piece maybe running by your engine or possibly into your firewall !! - Phat-Boi
NO never close off your cold air return.this causes the blower fan to "starve" for air reducing the units efficiency. it may feel like cold air is coming out of the registers,but in-fact the cold air is being pulled into the register from the room so it can be heated by the unit. hope this helps..... HVAC tech.
55 degrees to 60 degrees
Ceiling. Cold air fails
I don't know it's a new furnace and the outside unit was checked. everything runs good except that the air is not coming out of the vents cold it's barely cold.
Depends on the ambient air temperature, humidity level, and type of refrigerant used.
to keep the plant cold
55 degrees above zero Fahrenheit
The a/c - heater controller is out...........
Air conditioning unit has iced up. Don't use it for a while and it should come right
the middle vents only supply air from the ac unit using a separate in dash fan. the floor and defrost vents come only from the heater
evaporator can get plugged up--stays wet all the time & gets to rotting & moldy --should be cleaned or replaced
Vacuum hose that runs over the thermostat housing is leaking at that location.
I believe the upper vents are for A/C only. The floor vents are for the Hot air. Test your ceiling controls by moving the knob from cold to hot, you should hear the air pass from upper vents to lower vents. Providing of course you have selected REAR from the front control panel.
I don't think it is coolant. It is just condensation caused from high humidity and the cold air. If it is coolant it should get on the floor and you should loose coolant.