If the tube always stays lit without any trouble after it has been "started" by tapping or twisting it then the problem is not likely to be inside the tube itself but its contacts may need cleaning. If the tube flashes but never stays properly lit then it needs to be replaced. The problem may also be caused by corrosion on the contacts of the tube's "starter" - a small white or metal tube that will be found screwed into its own special socket somewhere on the light fixture. If that is the cause of the problem, tapping anywhere on the light fixture - including the tube - can often get the starter to work. Or maybe the starter itself needs to be replaced?
The first thing to check is the tube's starter. Starters don't last forever, they can only be expected to have a useful life about the same as a fluorescent tube. Switch off the power supply at the main panel, take out the starter tube by twisting it slightly anticlockwise and shake it. If anything sounds "loose" inside then the starter tube may be faulty. Anyway it's worth doing this bit of cleaning: using a small craft knife or penknife, scrape the starter's two contacts to make them shiny all over, including all round the thinner "posts" under the mushroom-shaped tops. Also, if you can see them, clean the contacts inside the starter's socket, but that may be difficult to do if they are hidden inside the socket. Replace the starter in its fixture, turn on the power and switch on the light.
If that made no difference then the first thing to replace is the starter because they cost a lot less to buy than a new tube. It is always useful to have a spare starter in your spare parts box anyway! If that doesn't solve the problem the next thing to check is the tube. Switch off the power supply at the main panel, take out the tube and shake it. If anything sounds "loose" inside then the tube itself may or may not be faulty but it is worth cleaning its contacts before finally scrapping it. Using a small craft knife or penknife, scrape the tube's contacts and the contacts in the light fixture to clean them so that they look nice and silvery. Replace the tube in its fixture, turn on the power and switch on the light.
If the tube still needs tapping or turning to make it light up then it should be replaced.
If that doesn't solve the problem then the whole light fitting should be scrapped unless you really know what you are doing and want to check the internal wiring for bad connections or, if none are obvious, maybe try replacing the ballast choke. But, unless you already have a spare choke taken from a similar lamp, it's usually not worth doing all that work because it may be cheaper - and much less trouble - just to buy a new light fixture complete with new tube, starter, choke all coverd by a whole year's warranty period! <><><>
As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
"Compact fluorescent lamps" (or, more commonly CFLs) sold direct to consumers for installation in a standard screw-in socket have an integral ballast built into the base. The ballast converts and controls the line voltage from the socket to properly drive the fluorescent lamp. Ballasts are generally fairly complex circuitry. All fluorescent lamps require a ballast. However, most lamps used commercially ("ordinary fluorescent lamps") do not have the ballasts built into them; rather, the ballasts are hidden somewhere in the fixture.
Fluorescent light replacement is easy as replacing light bulbs. Slowly twist the fluorescent until the lead of each end aligned to the path of ejection/insertion. Or just simply stretch both end of fluorescent ballast then remove/insert the fluorescent light.
If it fits and the controlling ballast or electronics is compatible with the bulb type. The 240 volt socket rating is just and indicator of the maximum voltage that can be applied to the socket.
Yes and no. There is a small range of wattage for which the built in ballast is designed for. Best to stick with the original wattage 4 pin lamp.
A compact fluorescent light (CFL) is a fluorescent light that is manufactured in the approximate size and shape of a standard incandescent lamp. It's got an electronic ballast (unlike the standard fluorescent lamp tube which uses a heavy wire wound ballast), and it screws into a socket and performs on the standard line voltage like that aforementioned incandescent lamp. The light emitting diode (LED) is a solid state device that converts electricity into light without heating a filament like the incandescent lamp, or ionizing a gas like the fluorescent light does.
A compact fluorescent light (CFL) is a fluorescent light that is manufactured in the approximate size and shape of a standard incandescent lamp. It's got an electronic ballast (unlike the standard fluorescent lamp tube which uses a heavy wire wound ballast), and it screws into a socket and performs on the standard line voltage like that aforementioned incandescent lamp. The light emitting diode (LED) is a solid state device that converts electricity into light without heating a filament like the incandescent lamp, or ionizing a gas like the fluorescent light does.
Yes a T12 lamp socket will take a T8 tube. The T8 tube will not operate. The T8 ballast is an electronic ballast where as the T12 ballast is a magnetic type. If you are changing over fluorescent fixtures to the smaller T8 lamps then the ballast has to be changed and the end sockets have to be rewired. The schematic on how to do the rewire is on the electronic ballast's label.
When fluorescent tubes become dark on the end where they join the socket , it is time to replace them. You are not getting full light output from the tube, but the ballast is still drawing the same power as it would for a new tube.
Can??? Sure, you'd just need to come up with a waterproof enclosure.But the problem is, many fluorescent fixtures don't work well when the temperature drops. Yes you can use fluorescent fixtures outside, they should be approved for the purpose and make sure they have 0 degree rated ballast for cold weather starting. The new electronic type ballast work in cold weather with no problems.
If the 250 watt bulb is a HID or similar type the ballast comes complete with the fixture. The bulb socket is also part of the fixture and comes pre-wired to the socket. To connect the bulb to the fixture all that has to be done is just screw it into the fixture's socket.
No, do not waste your time.
You don't say what type of light and one would assume you checked the bulb. If the bulb is good and it is an incandescent screw in bulb a wire may have come loose from wire nut; or sometimes the springy conductor in the bottom of the socket doesn't come up high enough because it has been compressed in some way. If it is a fluorescent bulb it could be the ballast.