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It depends on what type of washer it is. If it's a GE model, and the motor / transmission is good most likely your problem is the Agitator Coupler which is located beneath the agitator If the washer is made by Whirlpool / Kenmore and the motor / transmission is good most likely your problem is the Agitator Dogs which are located inside the agitator Both are easy and inexpensive fixes
the agitator on most washers go back and forth . at least one i know of goes up and down. we will talk about the back and forth.Underneath the tub usually accessable from the back of the machineis a transmission and belt along with other things. when you start the washer it will fill with water . When the correct volume of water is reached a switch is activated that sends power to the timer which in turn routes power to the proper connections needed to agitate. now when washing power is sent to a agitator control which lifts a plunger that makes the transmission rock back and forth which is calledagitation
I'll assume you've tested to see if it's screwed on too tight *8-PHold the bottom base in place and unscrew the agitator. Nine times out of ten, something's caught in there gumming up the works.If that's not it, put the washer on a 45 degree angle and look underneath. If you have the type with the belt drive, see if it'll move. if not, either it's wound too tight or the motor's got issues.If yours doesn't have the belt, turn the washer on and see if the agitator motor is seized. If so, you're probably going to have to rebuild the motor (or have a professional do it.)If the motor doesn't make the agitator spin, then you likely have a problem with your timer. They're pretty cheap, just replace it.Hope that helps!Additionally, there is a device that saves the washer from major damage, it is a two part couple; one part of couple is soft "rubber like" and the other is firm plastic. They join together and when stressed will shear. (It is used to protect the more expensive parts i.e. transmission and drive motor.) The couple is located above the transmission. usually it is a disc shaped item about 2-3 inches across and colored black or white. The part is very cheap and can be found at most appliance parts stores. Be careful when you dismantle the parts as some transmissions have an opening at the top and will leak a "nasty" lubricant if laid on its side. The most common cause for the failure is overloading the washer.
The washer stopped working and wouldn't undulate during the wash cycle...
It actually depends on the washer.
Example sentence - The agitator in the washer was not working properly until the repair man fixed it.
It depends on what type of washer it is. If it's a GE model, and the motor / transmission is good most likely your problem is the Agitator Coupler which is located beneath the agitator If the washer is made by Whirlpool / Kenmore and the motor / transmission is good most likely your problem is the Agitator Dogs which are located inside the agitator Both are easy and inexpensive fixes
It means the agitator, which is the large center piece in the washer, won't churn and turn inside.
A washer uses electricity to power the motor that turns the agitator (or drum) and pumps out the water.
agitator not working
The agitator is part on a washer. It is driven by a couple of different methods. The first is that the agitator is splined (grooves that are cut into the metal) and they slip onto the matching splines of the agitator shaft from the transmission. The second is the use of a bell coupling which is splined to the agitator shaft as well and the agitator snaps onto the coupling.
The detergent goes in the dispenser on the inside of the dishwasher door.
To unclog the laundry washer first check the lint screen located under the agitator. The check all hose connections. Be sure that the hose is allowing gravity to control the run off.
If u get a top load washer without the agitator like a whirlpool cabrio high efficiency the only difference is about $400. If you are talking about the traditional washer the washer fills up and the agitator cleans the clothes. With the front load and top load HE models they use way less water and friction cleans the clothes.
From: http://www.fixya.com/support/t1942223-one_part_agitator_moves_other_part Remove Dispenser or Cap: Some models of washing machines utilize a fabric softener dispenser that resides on top of the agitator. This dispenser simply snaps onto the top of the agitator. Other styles utilize a decorative cap. To remove the dispenser, simply grab it and firmly pull up. To remove the agitator cap, insert a small flat-head screw driver into the seam between the agitator cap and the upper agitator (mover). Use a twisting or prying action to pop the cap off of the agitator. Remove Internal Debris Cap: Inside the agitator you will see a cap with a raised handle, much like that of your automobile. Simply reach into the agitator and twist the cap while pulling up. This will remove the cap and its o-ring. Remove Agitator Stud: When looking into the agitator assembly, you will notice a single nut in the center of the agitator. Use a socket kit or nut driver to remove this bolt (agitator stud). Remove the Upper Agitator (Mover): With the bolt removed you should be able to remove the upper half of the agitator (mover) by simply pulling up. Sometimes pulling up will actually remove the whole agitator assembly. If this happens, place the Lower Agitator on the floor and stand on the flat lip. Then Pull up to separate the Upper Agitator (mover) from the Lower Agitator. Remove the Cam and Clutch Dogs: When you remove the upper agitator (mover) it contains the cam and clutch dogs. Tun the assembly upside down. The cam and dogs should then come out.
Sweet talk it! It just sits on top of the shaft splines. Grab hold of the bottom and wiggle it around while pulling upwards. LOL
2.2 cubic feet (effective radius allowing for agitator = 10 inches, depth 12 inches). I measured it today.