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To answer my own question, I offer the following:

This model does not have the usual plastic clips holding the door panel to the door body, so DO NOT TRY TO PRY IT away from the door body! Instead it has six screws holding it in place and four plastic hangers that slide into slots on the door body.

First... remove the two black screws from the bottom of the panel. These are easy to find underneath the door pocket along the bottom edge of the panel.

Next... remove the plastic caps covering both the pull handle and the arm rest housing the door handle and electric windows switches. These are semi-soft plastic so use care not to mar them during removal. (I used very little pressure and a flat bladed screwdriver without issue.)

This is where it gets tricky...

In the forward part of the arm rest you will find two silver screws in the area just under the actual door handle. These things have the potential to fall down into the inaccessible abyss of the arm rests innards, so USE EXTREME CAUTION removing them. I backed them out almost all of the way then used a pair of needle nose pliers to back them out the last few turns.

(NOTE: I would suggest wrapping a rubber band around the pliers on the handle side of the hinge so in the event you have a screw removed from its place, but have not cleared the housing, and would happen to release pressure from the handles... you won't lose the thing in the afore mentioned abyss.)

There are two more silver screws just aft the door handle that are just as easily removed, less the threat of losing them into parts unknown. This should be everything external of the door panel that would need to be done to remove the panel enough to change out the mirror assembly.

Now, pull upward on the entire panel gently. You should be able to raise the panel far enough for the lock stem to come clear of the panel located an inch forward of the top back portion of the panel. You will have six inches or so of movement in the panel before the wiring harnesses for the electric windows and remote mirrors become taught. The cable from the door handle to the actual locking mechanism has about as much play, but obviously is far less giving. I removed the plug for the mirror controls and let the panel hang from the other wire harness and lock cable. Probably not a recommended method but for the purpose of just replacing the mirror assembly it didn't seem worth the effort of disconnecting everything else for complete removal of the panel. I would just caution to not move it around much and this would most likely be frowned upon in a professional shop.

To access the three screws and harness plug for the mirror assembly carefully remove the foam/rubber like covering in the forward upper portion of the door body. Mine was attached with a tacky substance only at the top and bottom. (You can see the wiring harness for the mirror protruding from the bottom of the covering.)

Remove the plug and the three nuts holding the mirror housing in place, and your mirror should fall free from the outside of the door. (If you have any intention of keeping the mirror in one piece, or are removing it for any reason other than replacement, I would recommend hanging on to it when you remove the last nut.)

Replace with new mirror housing and repeat these steps in reverse order for reassembly. (Including the part with the silver bolts and pliers... I'm telling you, if you drop one of those puppies in that arm rest assembly you're going to have to completely remove the whole panel and shake that thing out to get it back.)

The entire replacement of the mirror housing only took 15-20 minutes start to finish using this method.

Thanks.

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Q: How do I replace the driver's side mirror on a 2007 Ford Explorer XLT?
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