The most critical thing is to prevent air from getting into the system. After replacing the slave cylinder, the system must be bled to get the air out. This requires two people, working in cordination, to be effective. While one person sits in the car, the other stands where they car reach the bleed valve on the slave cylinder. The cap on the clutch master cylinder must be open, and extra brake fluid on hand. The person standing outside the vehicle opens the bleed valve on the slave cylinder, and then tells the person sitting inside the vehicle to depress the clutch pedal. The person sitting in the car slowly depresses the clutch pedal, telling the person outside when the pedal is all the way to the end of its travel, and then holding the pedal there. The person outside the vehicle closes the bleed valve, and tells the person inside to release the clutch pedal. After checking to make sure that there is still plenty of brake fluid in the master cylinder, the process is repeated. Usually, it will take at least three pumps to completely clear the system of air. Care must be taken that the master cylinder does not run short of fluid, or air will be introduced to the system. Once the system has been properly bled, the clutch pedal should be firm, but able to travel its full range. Visully inspect the slave cylinder operation to insure that the piston is pushing the throw-out bearing fork. The amount of travel may only be a few centimeters, but the fork must move. On some the slave cylinder doesn't release all the air. You need to connect a clear rubber tube (about 5' long) to the bleed port on the slave cylinder bleed port running it up toward the raised hood and repeat the bleed. Allow the fluid to flow up the tube until it is within 4" of the top. If the clutch works properly remove tube, if clutch still doesn't work blow on tube with bleed port open and force fluid back through slave cylinder. Close bleed port before all the fluid is out of the tube. I had to do this on a 96 B3000 4X4 and an 06 Ford Focus.
Buy a Haynes or Chilton manual.
Standing at passenger side, the left bank nearest cylinder is #2. Behind that is #4 followed by #6. The right bank nearest cylinder is #1. Behind that is #3 followed by #5.The coil on side nearest you is from left to right #3,#5,#1.The far side of coil from left to right is #6,#2,#4. Info from Haynes manual.
just checked my ranger repair manual, this repair has some procedures that have to followed, would recommend purchasing the Haynes repair manual for that model year it covers both 4&6 cylinder engines
If you want to do this yourself purchase the Haynes manual for your car. Haynes and Bentley produce excellent manuals that others cannot compare to.
the Haynes manual says cylinder head bolts are 80 ft-lbs
According to the Haynes manual, number 1 cylinder is the first cylinder on the left if you stand in front of the car. Firing order 1-3-4-2
According to Haynes, this represents a misfire in cylinder 6.
Yes, buy the Haynes Repair Manual.
the 3.0 is a 6 cylinder What are you torking? Heads, intake, exhaust, oil pan? Buy a Chiltons or Haynes manual
go to autozone and get a haynes repair manual,it will show you everything.
It would be best for you to buy a Haynes Manual as it will have everything you will need to do the repair.
Side 1 is the side that cylinder 1 is on, typically the same side of the vehicle that the battery is on. But refer to your owners or haynes manual.