Start with the wheel cylinder farthest from the master cylinder....open the brake bleeder screw and have a friend slowly depress the brake pedal. (make certain that the master cylinder is full and stays pretty well full as you bleed, if you run the master cylinder dry you will add air into the brake system and have to start over) When your friend has depressed the brake pedal to the floor then you close the bleeder screw - have your friend let the brake pedal back up. Open the bleeder screw up again and have the friend SLOWLY depress the pedal again. What you are aiming for is an OPEN bleeder while your friend depresses the brake pedal and a CLOSED bleeder screw as the brake pedal returns to the top. (Foot off of the brake pedal) Repeat until you see no more air and the brake fluid comes out clean. Which means that the new Brake fluid has travelled completely through to the wheel cylinder.
Watch the fluid coming out of the bleeder screw on the wheel cylinder, if it is dirty or has air bubbles then you need to keep bleeding.
It is also a good idea to wait uo to 10 seconds until your friend pushes the pedal back down again.
Try to keep an open line of communication with your friend so that you dont get out of sequence and he lets up the pedal with the bleeder screw open, which will pull air back into the system.
Just take your time...
Best of luck.
Rear wheel? Remove wheel Remove brake drum Loosen and remove brake line to wheel cylinder Remove mounting bolts at rear of wheel cylinder Pry brake shoes back from wheel cylinder Pull wheel cylinder off backing plate Install in reverse procedure Bleed affected brake line
Remove fitting at junction block (usually at center of rear axle) and disconnect at the wheel cylinder Replace line and bleed air from that wheel. Should only have to bleed that line
Did you bleed the air out of the hydraulic system after changing the wheel cylinder? If not, you must do so.
With abs vehicles you start from the farthest wheel from the master cylinder and they go diagonally from that wheell and then the other rear wheel and then the wheel diagonally from that wheel.repeat if nessary
Yes-general rule for hydraulic brakes-start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder(usually passenger rear) then move to next driver rear,front passenger side and finally drivers sidefront.
the front driver and the rear passanger will need to be bleed every day No normal braking system needs bleeding daily. If you are losing pedal, then there is a leak in the system. Whether it be a fitting or a wheel cylinder or the brake proportion valve or the master cylinder, air is getting in somewhere. Check all fittings first and rule out any visible leaks. Then bleed the brakes starting with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, i.e. right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front. If after a few days you once again have not much of a pedal, then the master cylinder may be at fault, barring a leak at any wheel cylinder or proportion valve. The proportion valve is common to leak on these.
If it is a drum brake system, then you will have to remove the wheel ,drum, brake shoes, and hydraulic brake line , then remove and replace the cylinder with a new one re-assemble and bleed the hydraulic brake system
to bleed the brake you need two people one to pump the pedal three times each interval one on the nipple bleeder under the car all four corners start with the passaenger side rear drum then the driver rear drum then passenger front caliper then driver front caliper the reason for this is you are purging the brake system so you want to start with the the wheel cylinder/ caliper furthest from the master cylinder also you can perform what is known as gravity bleed fill master cylinder to reccomended level and proceed to bleed each wheel from furtherest from master cylinder and work your way back using same order of further wheel from master cylinder let each drip out until it is a steady drip
Brake wheel cylinder or axle sealBrake wheel cylinder or axle seal
remove the rear brakes, then remove the brake line to cylinder. remove the bolt holding cylinder on. then pull out wheel cylinder. to install cylinder, position it in place, put bolt back in cylinder to hold it. hook back up the brake line then put the brake shoes back on. when done bleed the system if need be.
seeing you have the old one off, just place new wheel cylinder on backing plate and put the 2 bolts in the new cylinder and tighten then down and then reinstall the brake line into the new cylinder and it's on, just don't forget to bleed your rear brakes when you have it all back together.
The easiest way would be to use a suction device that is specifically designed for bleeding the brake system. Attach the vacuum hose to one of the wheel cylinder bleed ports, make certain that the master cylinder reservoir remains full of fluid, then pull fluid from the wheel bleed port. It is recommended that you repeat the process for each wheel.