Clean the two pieces of pipe with emery paper or a pipe cleaning wire brush. put a little solder paste on male pipe and insert in connector. Heat the connection for several inches in both direction to warm up the pipe then concentrate the torch a quarter inch below and around the joint on the female end and the braising rod. Touch the rod to the joint. When the temperature of the pipe is hot enough the rod will melt and flow or be sucked sucked towards the heat. Move the rod all around the joint. LOL Actually, while most of the above information is true, I wouldn't recommend using solder paste or any type of flux when you braise refrigerant lines. You don't want anything besides R-22 (freon) or R 410-A (puron) in the lines and solder paste could mess up the compressor. Your should only use solder paste or flux when soldering!
I have recently had to join a 1 inch steel water pipe to a new copper 28mm pipe. You can do this using a 28mm comression joint. 1inch is just uneder 28mm in diameter but the compression joint takes up the difference and works without fault or leaks.
Teflon tape, Hercules Pro dope, pipe joint compound and quick wick , Pipe joint compound without quick quick wick , Blue block ,Teflon paste
The same that is used above ground. Sweat fitting coupler. I would not use copper underground in an area that has winter.
Easiest way to connect lead to copper /brass is a wiped joint consisting 40 - 60 solder alloy as this gives a longer pasty range
Not cleaning the pipe or joint enough, not using flux, or not heating the pipe or joint enough. You use the blue tip of the flame on the joint and the capillary action sucks the solder into the joint. You have to clean the pipe with sandpaper or steel wool, the joints with a fitting brush on the inside, and use a proper flux and solder.
When I have to connect copper to lead "D" I usually solder the copper to the lead or wipe a lead joint depending on the diameter To connect copper to cast iron ,.... If there is a hub I caulk the copper directly into the CI with oakum and poured lead (molten) OR one can solder / braze a female adapter fitting and screw the copper into a CI female fitting
You cannot sweat copper pipe if it has water in it. You must remove the water first. Even the steam from water will keep you from successfully sweating a joint without leaks. bob...
go to this URL ( http://www.easy2diy.com/cm/easy/diy_ht_3d_index.asp?page_id=35749917 )
It is not the type of pipe that is important, it is what you are putting through it. Copper is commonly hooked to black pipe for gas lines. Black pipe for natural gas or propane and galvanized for water. Either can have copper attached to them. Due to the electrolytic decay caused by attaching dissimilar metals, you would need to use a dielectric union to connect galvanized steel to a copper pipe; otherwise the joint will rot away in a few years, assuming there is any moisture around the joint. Properly dried gases may not have this problem.
A copper pipe is a conductor :) x
I am sorry, but can you PLEASE rephrase your question? Can WHAT be used for copper pipe? When? How? Why?
Copper pipe is almost pure copper manufactured to the requirements of ASTM B 42 - Standard Specification for Seamless Copper Pipe, Standard Sizes. It may be manufactured from any of five (5) copper alloys (C10200, C10300, C10800, C12000, C12200) that all conform to the chemical composition requirements of alloys containing a minimum of 99.9% Copper (Cu) and a maximum of 0.04% Phosphorous (P). Available sizes are 1/8" to 12" diameters in regular wall thickness and 1/8" to 10" in extra strong wall thickness. The standard length for copper pipe is 12 feet. Copper pipe is suitable for plumbing, boiler feed lines, refrigeration and for similar purposes.Joints in seamless copper pipe can be threaded, flanged or brazed to fittings of the appropriate joint configuration.