ALL ALTERNATORS NEED TO BE "FLASHED" TO PRODUCE POWER. BIG TRUCK ALTERNATORS ARE BUILT WITH AUTOMATIC FLASHING, SO YOU NEED TO ONLY CONNECT THE OUTPUT STUD TO THE BATTERY. SMALL AUTO ALTERNATORS, USUALLY HAVE TO BE FLASHED EXTERNALY. THAT IS, POWER MUST BE APPLIED MOMENTARILY TO START THEM CHARGING. ON DELCO UNITS, THERE ARE TWO SMALL TERMINALS ON THE TOP. ONE IS A FEEDBACK THAT CONTROLS THE REGULATOR. IT SHOULD BE CONNECTED TO THE BATTERY, BUT IT IS COMMON TO JUST HOOK IT TO THE OUTPUT STUD. THE OTHER ONE IS THE FLASH TERMINAL. HOOK IT TO THE IGNITION. THE CATCH IS THAT THIS TERMINAL PRODUCES POWER, AND THE ENGINE WILL CONTINUE TO RUN WHEN THE KEY IS TURNED OFF. YOU CAN STOP THIS BY PUTTING A DIODE IN THE CIRCUIT. REMEMBER THAT A DIODE IS A ONE WAY DEVICE, AND IF IT DOESNT WORK, TURN IT AROUND. THE FLASH TERMINAL MUST BE BELOW OUTPUT VOLTAGE, OR THE REGULATOR WILL NOT WORK. ABOUT 4.5 VOLTS IS REQUIRED, AND A 8 OHM RESISTOR IN SERIES WITH THE DIODE IS REQUIRED. A AUTOMOTIVE LIGHT BULB IS IN THE 6 TO 8 OHM RANGE, AND WORKS FINE. THIS IS WHY CARS HAVE IDIOT LITES FOR THE ALTERNATOR. ITS CHEAPER THAN HAVING AN IGNITION SWITCH WITH TWO ING. TEMINALS. EARLY CARS DIDN'T. AND FEEDBACK THRU THE IDIOT LITE KEPT THE IGNITION POWERED JUST ENOUGH TO KEEP THE ENGINE STUMBLING ALONG FOR SEVERAL SECONDS. HOPE THIS HELPS.
It is the wire that supplies the initial field current to the alternator from the battey. Once the alternator is rotating the field current will be provided by the diodes from the current produced by the alternator. excitor wire is usually wired through the charging indicator light.
I would connect the L lead to the dash light for alternator fault and from there to the ignition switch and the S lead directly to the alternator output connection. If there is no light, use a 35-300 Ohm resistor between the L lead and the ignition switch.
To change the voltage regulator on almost all modern GM cars, replace the alternator. The regulator is inside the alternator, and is not considered a field servicable part.
The wiring harness from a typical alternator has three wires. One is for grounding, one is from the battery, and the other is from the voltage regulator. In a GM alternator however, there may be two wires or only one wire. It depends on whether you have an external voltage regulator or not, and if the alternator simply grounds itself to the bracket it's attached to. The best way to find out is to trace the wires to their sources.
The easiest way is to get a late model one-wire alternator, I think circa mid 80's. As by its description, you hook one wire to the battery---and you are charging. It's got the voltage regulator built in. Of course, you will need to figure out how to hook up you alt/ charge light. You'll also need the late model alternator brackets from a junker-or get new chrome ones. Your next cheaper but more labor intensive is to get the alternator, brackets, voltage regulator, and wiring harness from a late 60's to late 70's gm product. Again, you'll need to figure out how to wire the charge light. If I remember right you'll need a hot wire from the fuse box to excite the alternator to charge. I had a 74 Monte Carlo that blew the instrument panel fuse and it quit charging.
Inside the alternator
The model of GM ? Why ? The wire is connected @ the glass element typically , it could be traced back to the front .
On GM vehicles it is inside the alternator and is not serviceable.
I assume you mean the electric choke. If it has two wire lugs on it one will go to ground (-) and the other (+) will go to the wire coming from the alternator that turns off the charge/alt indicator lamp in the instrument panel in the dashboard once the engine is running and the alternator is charging -- this is usually the smallest wire going into the alternator, without knowing which alternator you are using I can't make a definite recommendation, but most of the older GM alternators had 3 wires going to them -- the big one that bolts to the back of the alternator -- you don't hook it to this one, then there's usually a red and a brown one that plugs into the side of the case, If this is what you have it's the smaller gauge brown wire that goes to the indicator lamp, the red one is usually a much heavier gauge. If you have a different alternator you'll need a wiring diagram to show you which of the wires to use. Since yours is a 1980, if it has the stock alternator the two wires that plug into the side of the alternator plug right into the voltage regulator, and it would indeed be the smaller of the two wires (not the heavy red one) that you'd hook the (+) positive side of the electric choke up to, if the alternator has been changed to something else or you're using a one wire alternator these directions are not going to help you much. Some electric chokes ground through the carburetor itself -- in this case there's only one wire that needs to be hooked to it -- the positive one that heats that choke spring when the engine is running. Wish I could be more specific, but hopefully this gets you headed in the right direction.
There are several GM alts that can be converted. Later model units will each need A wiring diagramn. If you are using the '75 and up to the mid '80's alt. It has one large lug on the back that has A nut on it. This is for the charge to the battery, There are two spades side by side on the side near the back. You will need to connect A wire to the one farthest from the battery lug and connect the same wire to the battery lug. The spade that is left will need to go to the extra post on the starter, the one that is NOT for the solinoid wire. I know this sounds confusing, If you can't figure it out after reading it A couple times, Contact me in my message board.
There is none on GM cars
in the bottom right of the alternator
Real easy because the GM alternator has a built in regulator. That is why the GM alt are used on most coversions. Get mounting bracket from junkyard off same type engine you have.
Is it possibly a broken/missing alternator or serpentine belt? (nope just alternator light) It can also be a failing voltage regulator within the alternator, or a failing alternator itself. It is usually the carbon brushes in the alternator when both lights come on, it indicates a field problem with alternator Brushes are not to hard to change on a toyota, just remove the alternator from car, remove rear cover unscrew the brush holder and rectifier?(they are attached together) and install new brushes... you will need a soldering iron. It is a simple repair and at less than 10$ is more affordable than replacing the alternator. VW and Volvo have removable brush holders that unscrew from back of alternator Gm Ford and Mopar, you may have to split alternator to change brushes, there is often a small hole in back of alternator where you can use a piece of wire to keep brushes compressed when you put alternator back together easy job ... save your money
there is no ground wire it is grounded through the case
I think its the purple wire coming from the Oxygen sensor!
how do you change serpentine belt gm 3.4 2003 venture
only if the accesory hole for a/c alternator ect. match the you should be ok
A '99 Caddy Northstar alternator. Available at GM dealers, or RockAuto on line.
I put an aftermarket system in my intrigue, and don't recall a "stereo accessory wire". Do you mean the power antenna wire? Or is this a wire on your aftermarket box? Here's a GM diagram: http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/GM-Wiring.pdf
GM vehicles do not have reset switches.GM vehicles do not have reset switches.
11:00 o'clock as viewed from the top of the engine.
The Pontiac Grand Prix goes by the GM Factory Wire Harness Color Codes. http://www.installdr.com/harnesses/GM-Wiring.pdf
Divide (gm) by 1,000 to get the same mass in (kg).